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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    4
    Location
    Sand Springs, Oklahoma
    Tractor
    1610D

    Default timing issue help.

    Hi guys...I messed up while replacing the head gasket on my 1610d.

    While waiting on parts for a head gasket repair, I decided to clean up and inspect the rocker arm assembly while I cleaned the head and block. I took apart the lock nuts and adjusting screws and cleaned and inspected them one at a time not realising I had just messed up my point of reference for the valve timing. And guys I don't have a clue, but I was game to give it a try, just got ahead of myself.

    now I don't know how to find TDC on The #1 cylinder & be able to follow the tutorial on adjusting the valves. I'm not an engine guy and don't have a clue. i don't want to go any further and risk damaging a push rod or cam etc. and damage a good engine.

    I cant find any reference in my manual or in the forum search on this. The only reference is a place about injection pump timing that talks about an arrow on the block and a mark on the cam pulley , (found) but not if that is TDC on the #1 cylinder & the pics are BLACK as coal. If I could find some kind of reference point I could probably figure it out.

    I did find that when rotating the main Pulley there is a spot where both of the push rods on the #1 cylinder are even, and an 1/8th to 1/4 turn of the pulley will cause one of the push rods to begin an up or down sequence depending on which direction the pulley is rotated. Could this be TDC. Hope you can bail me out. I have that embarrassed feeling if you know what I mean.

    Here is a quick run down on the history. The tractor overheated while tilling the garden. engine has never run hot in the 7yrs I have owned the tractor. as soon as I noticed the temp climbing I dropped the Rpm's, engine temp continued to Climb. At hot, I shut it down.

    determined the water pump was shot (vanes corroded and gone) & the belt was stretched pretty bad. replaced pump and belt.

    Test running The tractor,I noticed some bubbles in the radiator and some black sludge floating in hte water. After flushing the radiator a few times & running the tractor around the yard a while, the sludge and bubbles persisted. the sludge seemed more like soot than oil and bubbles were sparse but persistent. No sign of water in oil at any point.

    so decided to replace the head gasket. Got the head off ok, but the gasket came off in several pices.I could not tell really, by looking, where the gasket may have failed. The block and head looked ok. no cracks that I could see. Everything is replaced & torqued & ready to go except for the rocker arm assembly & timing issue.

    Thanks for any help. Hope it is simple. Aragon1.

  2. #2
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    4,113
    Location
    gilmer tx
    Tractor
    Bobcat CT235

    Default Re: timing issue help.

    This will work fine for valve setting. Easiest way to set the valves on your Yanmar

    If you have not pulled the injection pump your timing has not changed.

  3. #3
    Gold Member
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    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    886
    Location
    North Texas
    Tractor
    Yanmar

    Default Re: timing issue help.

    Any time you remove the head you will want to re-set the valves so you would have had to do that anyway. Just use the link Winston posted and you are all set.
    Aaron
    Hoye Tractor Parts
    Contact Us
    (940)592-0181
    Yanmar Tractor Parts

  4. #4
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    4
    Location
    Sand Springs, Oklahoma
    Tractor
    1610D

    Default Re: timing issue help.

    Quote Originally Posted by winston1 View Post
    This will work fine for valve setting. Easiest way to set the valves on your Yanmar

    If you have not pulled the injection pump your timing has not changed.
    Winston1: Thank you for your time/input. I saw that tutorial on hoye's site but was having a brain fart/mental block about it. I was worried about the position of the adjusting screw/socket starting out. So if I have it right, Ill start out with the screw at say the half way mark on 1st valve 1st cylinder and when I turn the crank to where the valve is closed then adjust the screw and nut with the proper 0.08in gap then move to the next push rod for that cylinder and do the same ? If I have done it right then both valves will have a 0.08in gap and be fully closed on that cylinder at that point ? Also is it small valve intake. large valve exhaust ? Thanks.

  5. #5
    Gold Member
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    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    886
    Location
    North Texas
    Tractor
    Yanmar

    Default Re: timing issue help.

    The large valve is the intake and the small valve is the exhaust. Be sure to set them to 0.008" not 0.08". Turn the engine over by hand until the rocker arm on the valve side has just stopped going up and has not yet started going back down. Then adjust that valve to a 0.008" clearance.
    Aaron
    Hoye Tractor Parts
    Contact Us
    (940)592-0181
    Yanmar Tractor Parts

  6. #6
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    4
    Location
    Sand Springs, Oklahoma
    Tractor
    1610D

    Default Re: timing issue help.

    Ok..Got it. 0.008 I will change that in my manual its says 0.08" 0.22mm its for a 220 226 yanmar Thanks for your help.

  7. #7
    Gold Member
    Approved Advertiser

    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    886
    Location
    North Texas
    Tractor
    Yanmar

    Default Re: timing issue help.

    Yes, Yanmar had some trouble with the mm to inch conversion in several of their manuals. 0.2mm = 0.008ish"
    Aaron
    Hoye Tractor Parts
    Contact Us
    (940)592-0181
    Yanmar Tractor Parts

  8. #8
    Super Member clemsonfor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    8,507
    Location
    Greenwood Co., SC
    Tractor
    Yanmar YM2000

    Default Re: timing issue help.

    Maybe this weekend I will set my valves. I need to do it and have not yet done it on my tractor since I have had it
    YM2000. MF dirt scoop,4' Jbar bushhog,boompole, LMC 12-16 disk harrow, 4' Atlas boxblade (with rippers). 1980 chevy K10,1990 ford ranger 2wd (285K miles),1997 saturn SL2 (twin cam!!),2001Toyota Higlander
    1986 Cobia 177 sunskiff w/1981 Johnson 60 hp
    1991 Javalen 17ft w/same year 150 Johnson GT
    Troybuilt 4 cycle & Echo 2 stroke,cold natured(need carb rebuild),MS390 Stihl, Northern tool pressure washer, mixes water into the oil in the pump(now dead, motor on a tiller). 5000 watt generator.

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