For those with 3110D

[kenmac]

If you find yourself needing a boot for the steering drag link you can get them from J D Dealer. Mine are dry rotted & need replacing to keep grease in & dirt out . J D is the only place I could find them

 

[farmfun]

Thank you - always great to know of more sources.:thumbsup:

 

[kenmac]

forgot to include the jd part # M804235 this is the boot only. not retaining ring

 

[Car Doc]

Thanks. I need to replace some tie rod ends some day when I am looking for a project and will probably do everything thats bad at the same time this may help.

 

[dirtdonkey]

Car Doc and Kenmac I've read numerous replies both of you have given to a variety of questions and you both are quite experienced with YM 3110/3810 machines. I need help and have been given advice from many people but so far no good. I drove my 3110d into my garage the other night and next morning it would not start and finally it kicked but was only running on one cylinder? I checked for fuel and had 1/2 tank. I bought a new fuel filter since mine had come with an inline so I put the factory one back in and bled all the lines, per manual instructions. Disconnected the injector lines at the injectors to make sure I was getting fuel and noticed that #2 was getting a good little shot each time but 1&3 barely dribbled while cranking over the engine. Led me to believe the fuel injector pump had finally gone bad. Bought a new one and installed. Got tractor running but it is smoking terribly so I shut it off and did the fuel timing thing, per the manual. It called for 4 shims 2-12's and 2-8's. I started and it still smoked badly. It starts very easily so I tried running it but it had no power? I removed a shim and tried again. Well this went on from no shims to 4 and no matter how many I have installed the tractor continues to smoke badly and no combination of shims appears to be correct because the tractor never has enough power to run if 4th gear on flat level land, which it always did before. I'm very perplexed since I can't seem to figure out what is causing all the smoke and why it won't develop any power. Do you have any suggestions?

 

[kenmac]

What color is the smoke ? Does seem to be burning to rich.as in to much fuel ? are you now getting fuel where you wern't b-4 installing new pump ? maybe not enough compression to fire the fuel. Maybe car doc can think of other problems it could be

 

[Car Doc]

Well I have not timed one yet but I am familiar with the procedure. You need a short piece of tubing it can be steel plastic doesn't matter, a discarded old fuel line about 6" long with the pump side connector would be ideal. I always figured when I needed to check mine I would try to look at my injector line first and see if I could see the fuel there fwtw.

What you need to do is have this line on the #1 injector line (rear most cyl I think someone please correct me if I am wrong!) at the pump and have it turned up so fuel wont just run out and then pull the compression release and turn the engine over until fuel starts running out the tube.

At this point you want to have already found the timing pointer on the cam case and the notch in the crank pulley and this is 25 BTDC and as you rotate the engine with a socket clockwise until fuel just starts coming out now look at the timing marks they need to line up. Pull shims out accordingly to get it right. If the mark is past the pointer remove shims and so on. good luck my thinking is shes just out of time.

edit: after rereading your post I am not sure what your problem is since no amount of changing shims has helped. I would think you would have gotten lucky if nothing else the odds were in your favor. I would have put the same shims back in to start with and then checked the timing. However getting the pump timed right is mandatory and then we can go from there. You may well have injectors that wont shut off properly now if the pump is making the proper pressure. Or a serious amount of air still in the lines?