11.2 x 24 tires

[capt1989]

Will these fit on the standard rims that come on the ym2000? I need better traction for the tractor and am looking at possibly going to a wider tire. Any information is helpful. I already have 160 lb wheel weights, keep the box blade on it pretty much all the time, and in the spring I have water in the tires. It also has a FEL. You would think that with all the extra weight it would get better traction than it does, but then again, I probably push it a little harder than it should be occasionally. I thought about doubling up the rear tires but it is way to expensive (I can't afford) to get the appropriate parts.

I have had this ym2000 for 4 years now and except for a rocky 1st month, it has performed above and beyond. These things are bullet proof! :thumbsup:

capt.

 

[SPYDERLK]

To keep from overloading your axles I would add as much weight to the rear wheels as possible. Bigger tires filled would not add a lot unless you also went to foam fill. ... Expensive to do both and scary because its permanent. What about just chains for your current Ags? More traction without much more weight.
larry

 

[California]

Some random thoughts. Maybe something here will be helpful.


Are you airing down to a noticeable sidewall bulge? At least as great as a radial tire, preferably more.

I had to go down to 7psi on the oversize (12.4x24) tires on my YM240 to get this bulge. It puts a lot more tread on the ground. This AND maximum water fill were recommended by my third-generation-farmer neighbor like he configures his tractors. (No freeze hazard here).

In fact I decided 75% water fill (up to the valve stem at 12:00) was too much weight, the tractor struggled to go up grades in third gear with this weight and the additional diameter of these oversize tires. (and a very heavy loader).

After I put on the ROPS, I decided its additional 65 lbs pretty far back helped. Plus I didn't have to rely on ballast alone to save my tail from rollover on side slopes so long as I used my seatbelt and left the ROPS up. So I reduced the water ballast to 50% fill. This feels just right. I've never gotten it stuck (... well I have used the loader a couple of times to toboggan sunk front wheels).

There aren't any iron weights on the YM240 but I wish I could find some like I put on the little Yanmar.

I don't know if those 11.2 tires will fit your rims. Are they Ag tread, or rice tread with huge cleats? The width of your rims should be stamped on the rims. You can match that to a tire chart to see if 11.2 is acceptable.

 

[capt1989]

The bigger tires would not add a significant amount of weight but they would hold more water and would put a bigger contact area to the ground. The ym2000 had a factory option of dual rear wheels so the rear axle and gears should be beefy enough to handle it all. Hadn't thought about chains though.... Now have something else to consider. Thanks for the reply.

 

[capt1989]

I was thinking about that today California. The lowering air pressure part. I am at work right now, for the next 24 days, so can't try it but I know for a fact there is 12 lbs in each tire cause I just emptied the water and adjusted the air pressure 2 days before I caught the boat. It would certainly help. I may just have to accept that as good as my ym2000 is, it does have limitations. Man...it hurts to say that. I'm going to have to get some anti freeze and put the water back in though. I missed the extra weight dearly when working the property the last day. The tires are Ag treads. Appreciate the random thoughts.

 

[deepNdirt]

all of what California suggest is good suggestions to try, another thing is.... I don't know about your driving experience on a tractor, But when I got my tractor I had to learn its temperament, I'm sure there is a better word But anyway I was running at too high of RPM and not the correct gear to get optimal traction, it seem all this tractor would do is spin spin spin, I started lowering the engine speed and trying out other gears and then I found the key to getting my tractor to hookup, your 2000 like my 1700 can send quite allot of engine speed to the rear wheels its just knowing how to lower that speed and bring out the torque,:thumbsup:
also if you have a FEL and you load it your rear wheels will be lite on the ground, a Box scrape alone is not enough ballast, I have to use 2 suitcase weights as well hung to my Box scrape and sometimes feel I need even more, and to answer your question as to if a 11.2 will fit....? I dont think it will fit the 8" wide wheel, however there is another size that will fit 9.5 x 24 .... when comparing the three sizes you can see the amount of difference and the 9.5 is quite a bit larger than the original 8.3 ..
here is a picture from an old thread I had about the same thing... I hope you don't mind 284 International if I share this picture

 

[284 International]

In what situations are you finding yourself lacking traction? Sometimes, where weight is located matters more than how much is there. If you're having trouble backing up out of a hole with a full loader bucket, you will be much better off to add 200 lbs of ballast to your box blade than you would adding the same mass to your tires.

If you need traction to pull a disk or the box blade, then you'll be happier with the weight on/in the tires. You might be better to drop the bucket off the loader, to transfer some weight to the rear.

 

[capt1989]

deepNdirt, Thanks for your comment. I understand exactly what you are saying about the temperament thing... my tractor and I have melded together many moons ago.... but it was quite a learning curve. With the amount of extra weight I generally carry around on the rear axle ( 160lb cement weight per wheel + 167 lbs of water ballast per wheel = 654 total lbs on the rear tires, plus the box blade and FEL) most of the tractor work is in 1st or 2nd gear at low rpms. I am careful but consistent. I want results, not a broken tractor. 9.5/9 x 24 tires are the original size for the ym2000 so maybe the 11.2 will fit on the slightly bigger rim. I have 200lbs of suit case weights... never thought of putting them on the box blade... they will go there when I get home, that extra weight behind the tires will surely help plant tread to the ground. Don't mind the International pic at all.

284 International, the 200 lbs of ballast will be applied to the box blade and will definitely help. The traction issues are when pushing backward with the box blade ( pulling forward and getting a full box, lifting and pulling forward, then wanting to move the same pile backward out of the way), and sometimes when using the FEL to push something, logs, dirt, whatever, forward.

I think that lowering the air pressure in the tires and the additional weight on the box blade will be as good as it will get under these circumstances. The tractor already does a phenomenal job and I have asked it to do a lot over the 4 years I have had it. The present project is clearing, leveling and pulling stumps out of the back 2 acres of my property after selling the timber off of it 2 years ago. Not an easy task considering the huge loaders that cut and pulled the trees did some of the work in the rain, and there are HUGE ruts everywhere. It took me 5 hrs to do one area 4 ft wide and about 200ft long. But that one area is now level and stump free. Slow, careful work keeps the tractor together and get steady results. It is going to take a long time but I don't mind, not in a particular hurry and the satisfaction of doing it with my little tractor is .... well... satisfying!:laughing:

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate all opinions and input.

capt.

 

[284 International]

I don't mind the photo sharing at all.

Capt1989, the photo deepNdirt shared is of an 8.3x24, a 9.5x24, and an 11.2x24 tire side by side by side. The 9.5 is on my YM2000, for reference.

How big is your box blade? Be really careful loading up the tractor with enough ballast to push backward any load you can pull. The hitch isn't really designed for that kind of load anyway, and ballasting the tractor extra heavy will end up bending and/or breaking things.

Putting 200lbs of extra weight on the box will almost transform your tractor for loader work. You'll be very pleased. It won't make it easier to pull or drag, but it will bite better.

For what it's worth, Titan tire shows the 11.2x24 tire being on a 10 inch rim and the 9.5x24 tire mounting on an 8 inch rim.

 

[clemsonfor]

deepNdirt, Thanks for your comment. I understand exactly what you are saying about the temperament thing... my tractor and I have melded together many moons ago.... but it was quite a learning curve. With the amount of extra weight I generally carry around on the rear axle ( 160lb cement weight per wheel + 167 lbs of water ballast per wheel = 654 total lbs on the rear tires, plus the box blade and FEL) most of the tractor work is in 1st or 2nd gear at low rpms. I am careful but consistent. I want results, not a broken tractor. 9.5/9 x 24 tires are the original size for the ym2000 so maybe the 11.2 will fit on the slightly bigger rim. I have 200lbs of suit case weights... never thought of putting them on the box blade... they will go there when I get home, that extra weight behind the tires will surely help plant tread to the ground. Don't mind the International pic at all.

284 International, the 200 lbs of ballast will be applied to the box blade and will definitely help. The traction issues are when pushing backward with the box blade ( pulling forward and getting a full box, lifting and pulling forward, then wanting to move the same pile backward out of the way), and sometimes when using the FEL to push something, logs, dirt, whatever, forward.

I think that lowering the air pressure in the tires and the additional weight on the box blade will be as good as it will get under these circumstances. The tractor already does a phenomenal job and I have asked it to do a lot over the 4 years I have had it. The present project is clearing, leveling and pulling stumps out of the back 2 acres of my property after selling the timber off of it 2 years ago. Not an easy task considering the huge loaders that cut and pulled the trees did some of the work in the rain, and there are HUGE ruts everywhere. It took me 5 hrs to do one area 4 ft wide and about 200ft long. But that one area is now level and stump free. Slow, careful work keeps the tractor together and get steady results. It is going to take a long time but I don't mind, not in a particular hurry and the satisfaction of doing it with my little tractor is .... well... satisfying!:laughing:

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate all opinions and input.

capt.

Im only saying this about my profession to put validity in what i say. Anyway, im a forester, and there is no way a logger would leave my woods or my jobs with HUGE ruts in the woods. I send them home if its getting that big and there is the understanding they are to fix any damage they have caused, which is smoothing the surface up, there is still hidden damage of soil compaction but its all you can do, thats the point why they get sent home! If you sold the timber yourself you still have the right to send them home, depending upon the wording of your contract at sale time, if it was a handshake deal you still have the right, its your land! They are use to "fixing damage" and will do this sort of thing when asked. But if not they will try and will leave without doing anything. Its part of the job. Your should have swapped the timber for having them push the trees vs cutting them, then all you would need to do is have them push them into a pile and you burn them.

Sorry i am 2 years late on this advice. I hate to see landowners get treated this way and the ones that do this give the logging profession that hated stigma that they have!