Smoking Alternator Wire

[ctmeans]

I own a YM1600, I bought it a year ago from an older gentleman who used it with a 4' finish mower. I changed all fluids and filters afterwards and has run great since. I had noticed 2 things: 1. If not hooked up to a battery charger it will not have enough juice after about 2 weeks to start it (I replaced the battery as well. It was bad, but continues to slowly drain the battery). It has an alternator, but I didn't check it with the motor running and the + battery cable off because I changed the battery and it worked, but just drained more slowly. The ignition was having a hard time, plus the key was sometimes turning and sometimes not. So I bought a replacement ignition switch.

The first observation was that my old ignition switch only had 3 screws on terminals into the cylindrical body (no right angles like the "new" one) and the new one has several terminals and is MUCH larger. In fact it was so large that it would not fit correctly because it would hit the odometer/tachometer from behind. I found another hole in front with a rubber plug and was able to place it there. I don't know if the ignition switch was changed before and the "new" one is actually the original (although I would doubt it as to the fitting issue with the odomter gauge)?

So after installing here are the second observations. I typically will push in the clutch, and pull the (I don't what its called but I think it is a deompresion lever thingy), and then crank her over with the exceleration lever pulled back. Once turned over and rpm's high I push in the exceleration lever to middle range and warm up. When wanting to shut down I push the exceration lever all the way in and it shuts down. Now when I push it all the way in it won't stall, it just putts really slowly and will only turn off if I turn the key off (I was told this was harder on the engine to just turn the key off and better to slowly let it die).

The third and key question: After starting up and mowing about 15 minutes into it there was smoke coming from engine. I looked over and the alternator was smoking. I quickly stopped and shut her down. Wires totally fried. Not able to turn over any more, just smokes as wire gets hot if you try to turn it over. Errrr!!!!

1. Is this normal for this igition switch?

2. Could the "new" ignition switch causes too many amps to be pulled by the alternator?

3. Was this more likely a 30+ year starter going out around the same time as I intalled the new ignition switch?

4. Now that I'll have to replace the starter, is there anything else that needs replaced too (like voltage regulator, fuse strips converted to plug in fuses, alternator) so I don't accidently fry the new starter?

BTW I plan to replace most of the wiring as it looks like toast and will get things back to bare clean metal.

 

[clemsonfor]

You cant cut these tractors off with the key, its just happens to be dying on its own its just coincidence. You can cut the key off while running and it has no effect. Once started is all the key does, the thing makes it owns electricity. To get it to stop, reach down and pull the linckage back toward you that your lever attaches to. This stops alll the fuel from the injector pump. Mine has never really shut off well. It will kind of deisel really slowly like your describing and eventually die, this is hard on an engine to idle it this slowly. Just reach under on your right side and pull the linkage toward you. You can do it on or off the tractor.

 

[ctmeans]

So about the part with the key...you said that they won't cut off with the key. This is what I found with my old ignition module. The new one would cut off with the key. I wired it according to the wiring diagram it came with. One goes to the fuses, big wire from the battery to B and last wire from starter to C. What am I missing?

 

[clemsonfor]

Im not an ignition GURU, just never been into mine so i have not been there yet. I think Winston and or California both have the diagrams and i know Cali has replaced one before. So i cant help you with what colors and what goes where? There will be a power, ground, thermostart (if you have it), start, and maybe something else i forget. But i have only looked at mine so i cant help there like i said. I do know once started you key has nothing to do with running the engine. You do want to keep the key On as if its off your battery wont charge while running. But your key cant cut it OFF, its a Deisel engine. Its compression ignition, the power at that point has nothing to do with the engine. You dont even need an ALT the only thing that does is charge the battery or run your lights if your battery is bad. IF your alt is bad your lights will work till battery is dead. You can start this thing disconnect your battery pull it out and shut your key off and run all day long. If yours is cutting off you have some power actuated fuel soloniod or something? This afterall is what cuts off a newer Deisel tractor, the fuel is cut off. AGAIN there is no ignition so what is the key gonna cut off that will stop the engine from running. All it needs is fuel (which is mechanical injected) air, and compression to run.

 

[Ginormous]

Regarding your wires getting hot. You ought to check your electrical connections, especially the ground from the battery to the frame. After 30+ years, corrosion takes its toll on an electrical connection. Apparently this is a common issue and can lead to HOT wires. I had this issue, and it's easy enough to fix with a little sand paper and some time to disconnect and reconnect wires.

 

[ctmeans]

I finally had a chance to look at things. I really think it's a wire issue and not a switch issue. The problem is that the tractor is 30+ years with ??? prior owners (in fact my hour meter was not working when I bought it and am in the process of seeing if a new cable can get me going again). When you look at the wiring from the battery back it looks terrible. There is more electrical tape and homemade jobbies than you can shake a stick at. There are 3 coats of paint, each different, with the most recent just a JD green. You can't tell where all the wires go and the ones that do connect are terribly corroded, especially at the alternator and starter connections as they see the most weathering as they are not covered by metal.

Before hooking up the new starter I plan to rewire the tractor on most wires. I plan to sand down and de-rust all connections. Finally check with volt meter connections as well.

Any suggestions on this project? Since I am removing so many things I plan to sand down any body rust (mainly the hood) and repaint to its "original" glory. Thanks for all the input so far.

 

[Ginormous]

Any suggestions on this project? Since I am removing so many things I plan to sand down any body rust (mainly the hood) and repaint to its "original" glory. Thanks for all the input so far.

Sounds like a good plan on the electrical. I suggest you use hardener in the paint when you spray it on. It will weather better.

 

[Snaker]

I'm doing a lot of guessing here, but are you sure that with the different switch and location, the throttle linkage isn't hitting a terminal or rubbing a wire? I would watch that while moving throttle and foot throttle if you have one.

 

[shawnjvl]

Repaint I did, I took the entire wire out and redid it also. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/184891-repaint-ym2000.html

I finally had a chance to look at things. I really think it's a wire issue and not a switch issue. The problem is that the tractor is 30+ years with ??? prior owners (in fact my hour meter was not working when I bought it and am in the process of seeing if a new cable can get me going again). When you look at the wiring from the battery back it looks terrible. There is more electrical tape and homemade jobbies than you can shake a stick at. There are 3 coats of paint, each different, with the most recent just a JD green. You can't tell where all the wires go and the ones that do connect are terribly corroded, especially at the alternator and starter connections as they see the most weathering as they are not covered by metal.

Before hooking up the new starter I plan to rewire the tractor on most wires. I plan to sand down and de-rust all connections. Finally check with volt meter connections as well.

Any suggestions on this project? Since I am removing so many things I plan to sand down any body rust (mainly the hood) and repaint to its "original" glory. Thanks for all the input so far.

 

[ctmeans]

Re: Rubbing wires. I think that is a good possibility. The problem as I mentioned before is that the wires look like a rat's nest and then they put electric tape all over them. I plan to completely redo the wiring.

Re: Painting. I have already bought all the paint. I bought at TSC: Massey Red, White, Black and a grey primer. I also was trying to keep as original as possible and I read that Rustoleum spruce green was a very close match for the frame and engine. The problem is our local Lowes could get it from Rustoleum and I prepaid, but they called later and said Rustoleum no longer makes in a quart, only shaker cans.

So...

1. I went ahead and bought a case (6) of the spruce green. Is that enough to cover the engine and frame?

2. Because it's from a can I can't add hardner. Is this a problem and should I rather have a paint store mix the spruce green color in a quart so I can add hardner and shoot with my gun?

3. For the black color... I got the rustoleum glossy black, but should I rather have bought the black for high temps, esp. for the exhaust?

Thanks in advance