Our "new" 186D

   / Our "new" 186D #61  
I run a 4 ft rotary mower fine on my YM186D. 240 lbs of suitcase weights on the front helps so when I pull the handle the mower rises, instead of the nose of the tractor.

This mower does work the tractor hard to get it spinning when you let the clutch out. I usually do this with the Powershift in neutral to avoid a stall since these little 3-cylinder Yanmars don't have the low end torque of the 2 cylinder models. After it gets over 2000 rpm there is plenty of power.

I generally mow downhill in third range and uphill in second range - but pictured are two instances where I stopped and shifted to low range. In the first picture it was working too hard. In the second picture, I needed to inch along so I wouldn't run my head into low branches - or, lift the nose of the tractor and set it down crooked, ramming the tree.

163274d1272316572-mowing-big-twin-ym240-vs-p1590065rym186dmow3.jpg


163272d1272316489-mowing-big-twin-ym240-vs-p1350118rym186dmow5.jpg
 
   / Our "new" 186D #62  
Like Cal, I have a 186d but run a 5 ft brushog behind mine. Put powershift in N let the clutch out at 1000 rpm, run it up to 2400 while mowing then shift into gear, same as I do with my 5 ft finish mower. I have a couple of hundred pounds on the front end as well. I never mow up steep hills, and mow in 4wd to keep from sliding down hill when the weight transfers to the front tires. Yes the front end without the weights gets very light.
 
   / Our "new" 186D
  • Thread Starter
#63  
Gonna give the brush hog a workout tomorrow, our place hasn't been mowed yet this year!! May be a picture heavy post after we get home. 😚
 
   / Our "new" 186D
  • Thread Starter
#65  
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   / Our "new" 186D
  • Thread Starter
#67  
So another question, what is the pedal on the right side of the seat, directly behind the brake pedals?? You would use your heal on it....differential lock???
 
   / Our "new" 186D #69  
So another question, what is the pedal on the right side of the seat, directly behind the brake pedals?? You would use your heal on it....differential lock???

Yes, exactly. The guideline is generally to engage it before you will need it, or when there is only very minimal differences in rotational speeds between the tires. Sometimes the lock "sticks" when the pedal is released. Reversing direction and/or steering a little bit left and right will usually free it up quickly.

The tractor will "push" straight ahead, and try to go straight irrespective of the direction the steering axle is trying to go. All you're trying to do is get a little bit of slack in the engagement dogs to allow the spring to push the locking mechanism out of the way.

There is a good photograph Winston found of the engagement mechanism in the last photograph here. Depressing the pedal cams the fork sideways, engaging the two sides of the differential. Releasing the pedal allows the spring to push the teeth apart. Much force keeps the teeth locked beyond what the spring can overcome, so the locking action continues until traction becomes closer to equal.
 
   / Our "new" 186D #70  
And don't mash that diff lock pedal. The diff lock will engage only after the dogs (gears) line up and you can't persuade it with more force.

The diff lock shifter inside the transmission isn't as durable as most everything Yanmar makes. I had to repair mine when I bought the tractor; somebody must have stood on it with all his weight. It needed a bent rollpin straightened, and some metal welded into the worn spot that the rollpin pushes against. At least the dogs that engage didn't show any wear.

Also - I am gradually adapting the YM186D to a lower profile to fit under my orchard trees. I moved the seat back which didn't lower it much but it gave me room to bend my torso forward as I go under a branch. Then the diff lock pedal dug into the back of my ankle, so I cut nearly an inch off the front edge of the pedal. This is a lot pleasanter to use now.
 
 
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