Jump Starting Question...The picture I promised

[The_Principal]

I realize that a diesel has much more compression than a gasoline engine, but should I be able to jump start it with my V-8 Suburban??? I had a loose negative cable...(which was my fault from not tightening it up after replacing the clutch) which I think led to a dead battery. When I turn the key, the starter bumps but will not turn motor over...the same thing happens when I jump it except that it will turn it over really slow. The old girl is stranded too far away from any electric for a charge...should I hook her up and pull her in with the old Allis Chalmers??? Also...any advice for making it easier to lift the hood with the grill guard on the front. What a hassle that has become. I attached a picture of the Yanmar?Oliver

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Usually there is a decompression lever that will assist in turning the engine over. AFter the engine is turning the lever can be pushed back in. Usually, this is used when cold. I guess if the suburban does not have a strong enough battery, you could let it run for 30 minutes to help charge your battery, or take the battery off and take it in your suburban to charge it.

 

[clifst2310]

I have used my V-6 Dakota to jump my 2310 when I had a discharged battery. No problem if I run the truck with the jumper cables connected to the tractor battery for about five minutes.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Ahhh, the joys of a 240 with a dead battery, BTDT. As you probably already know, this machine is a pure SOB to jump, and what you'll learn is that it's really brutal in cold wether.
You need HEAVY jumpers, not the automotive ones, and you manage to stuff the + jumper onto the battery from the left sode of the machine. Put the - jumper onto the frame of the machine itself. One of the loader mounting bolts usually works well. Hook up the other end at the Suburban, and let it charge the Yanmar for a few minutes before trying.
Use the comperession release, it's a lever below the left side of the dash, about 5/16 round rod. It should turn 90 degrees to the left for decompression. If it doesn't turn, don't force it or you'll bust something. Follow the rod to the intake manifold, and shoot everything linked to it with penetrant, it will free up in a half hour, usually.
Hold down the decomp, and spin the machine over for a few seconds, and then release the lever, and she should wind up.
Since it's been sitting, it might be a good idea to bleed the fuel system before trying to start the tractor. If you don't have good flow at the pump, replace the fuel filter.
This machine is also famous for start solonoid problems. Fortunately a replacement is available thru NAPA for around $30-, far lower than the John Deer dealer will charge for the replacement. Actually NAPA can also provide all the filters for this machine.
When you get the machine running, put a voltmeter on the battery, the alternators on these machines SUCKed. If you don't have a good alternator, a Delco replaces it easily.
Since it's warm, the tractor should start fairly easy.
If you're going to use the machine below 30 degrees, plan on a new battery every 2 years, or starting assist.

 

[The_Principal]

Thanks... I think. I read some in the manual tonight and it says to put the positive cable directly on the starter...I plan to try that tomorrow morning. I will need the tractor in cold weather but getting to the battery is not easy. I forgot about the decompression lever but will definitely try that tomorrow also... (I have only owned three tractor two weeks)

Thanks for the advice...

 

[roger_scotty]

Nice paint job! Which model of Yanmar is it really? I know about flat batteries, I had my share of them until I modified the Yanmar to use a better quality battery. Now it can sit for half a year and still start right up. The alternator doesn't have much output, but it doesn't need to do much either. All it does is run some tiny lights and top off the battery. I've never had an electrical problem that wasn't a bad ground or a bad battery.

Anyway, I always jumped mine from an automotive battery....sometimes using the one in the PU truck and sometimes a spare that I carried in the back in a battery box. Nothing special was ever required, just hooked up my old jumper cables just like I was jump starting a car - but it seemed even easier. A fully charged car battery always cranked my tractor with no problem. In fact, it cranked it so fast that the compression release was not needed. Maybe you will be as lucky too. It is always nice to use the compression release, but if in doubt about how it works, just ignore it.

 

[The_Principal]

I've tried them all and the only explanation I have is that the starter is requiring too many amps to crank. I can get it to crank with a jump start directly to the positive terminal or via the battery....but just barely. I tried the compression release..and it will crank a little more afterward but still way too slow to ever start. I've had this tractor two weeks and already replaced the clutch...now I am looking at a starter rebuild. Should I have bought a Jinma??? Or is this just a result of the old guy letting this tractor sit. It is a 240D by the way Roger.

 

[normde2001]

Sounds like you have a poor connection somewhere between the battery and the starter. Your Suburban battery should start it easily, however running the cables directly to the starter should work until you find the problem.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Most likely candidate is the starter solonoid on a 240D.
It can be changed with the loader down, but I hope you have small hands and good dexterity.
NAPA can get yo the replacement, it's in the tractor parts book they have, and is made by Wilson, in Canada, wilson part # 60-25-15121.
If you can figure a way to clip onto the solonoid with a jumper you're better than I am.
I have started mine, in an emergency, by jumping across the solonoid bolts with a copper bar. The starter will melt a screwdriver, so don't try that.
The 240 doesn't really spin fast on the starter in the best of cricumstances. If you have a voltmeter and a helper, read both sides of the solonoid and determine if you have a voltage drop. Also check the connection from solonoid to starter, that's a problem area. So is the ground connection from the battery. If you have replacement battery cable ends they too could be a problem. I've been thru all of these.
Why did you need to replace the clutch, was that tractor stored without locking the clutch down, or was the clutch wore out from improper use?

 

[buppy69]

I had a 1401 that did the very same thing. It acted like the battery didn't have enough power to turn it, just a slow turning when jumped. I switched starters with another tractor and it worked fine.

Eugene