Yanmar and V-Tek Help

[charlie brown]

I have searched the forum but can't really find a good answer for a guy who don't know a whole lot about the hydraulics. I have a Yanmar 2210D, with a V-Tek V2 loader. I bought it a couple years ago at Bid Reds in near Fort Worth, TX. The right seal on the joystick keeps blowing out. I don't know which valve this is, the in or out. Any thoughts. I love the tractor other than this part of it.

The bucket dosen't operate at a normal speed when lifting or unloading, has a lot of drag in it.

Also is there anywhere I can order a new joystick for the V2 loader? When i was replacing the seals in the valves I broke a bolt (very cheap metal bolt) in the joystick that runs through one of the valves.

Thanks Guys

[Scotty Dive]

CB,
I have the same loader but not sure if we have the same joystick valve. Mine is a BLB Model BM-40 - if not, take a look at the valve for manufacturing markings and google is your friend. I have a manual I can send you if its the same...just PM me with your email address. FWIW, this is an Italian made valve and only found a few folks in the US familair with it. I spoke to Beiler Hydraulics who can get parts....but in my case, I am waiting for it to fail so I can replace with a more standard valve that includes Power Beyond and Float. - I don't have either in mine.

As for blowing a seal - if you follow the plumbing you should be able to figure out what the in and what the out is - plus the manual will help. I installed a gauge onto mine to help me see what my pressure is. thats simple to do and any hydraulics place can get you the tees and the gauge. If you are making too much pressure that could be the cause of the seals blowing.....I am not a hydraulics guy....but the gauge and the manual is the first step I would take.

[Car Doc]

I am with Scotty on the check pressures both the pump relief setting AND the joystick relief setting should be the same about 2250 psi. I also would suspect finding a different control may solve a couple issues at the same time if the pressures are found to be set correctly?

edit: I will put it another way the joystick should be set the same as the pump relief is more to the point. The loader will work at any pressure the settings being "the same as" is the correct way to explain it rather than changing the pump pressure its not as easy to adjust fwtw.

The power beyond capability is arguably what these YM's need to operate properly with the loaders plumbed in series with the 3pt. (long story there)

[kenmac]

if it turns out to be the loader valve. Try here Surplus Center - About Us They are an advertiser on this site. I purchased my grapple valve from them

[charlie brown]

Well I called Big Reds in Ennis TX, where i bought the tractor, they said yeah it is probably the joy stick assembly. $350 later the seal still blows. I'm frustrated to say the leaste. I can hear the loader under pressure when i have just the slitest load in it. I am assuming the pressure to the valve control is to high. The bucket lets down at a decent speed but when i try to pick it up or tilt it, it is extremely slow. WTF

[284 International]

How is the tractor's hydraulic system plumbed? Does the hydraulic line from the pump go to the loader valve, then the rear lift in series? Does your rear lift leak down faster than it should?

[charlie brown]

The hydro system is in one series. The back box blade does seem to leak down faster than it should.

[kenmac]

The hydro system is in one series. .

That could be your problem.It doesn't need to be plumbed in series.

[90cummins]

I would check the return line for excessive back pressure. The return line may be restricted or too small.
Check the plumbing, is the pump output going into proper port (inlet) if it was plumbed into the outlet that would work but blow the seals out.
90cummins

[Gary Fowler]

Also check your pressure relief in that joystick. If it is like the one on my Yanmar with the V3 loader, the only relief in that system is on the joystick control. I sold my tractor to my brother in law and after a few months the hydraulic pump would start leaking when he used the FEL. He finally got the bolts tight enough to stop any leaks and the pump housing blew up. The relief valve had froze up or something and the way they plumbed up the hydraulics, when you pull the FEL lever, it shuts all the pressure to the FEL and somehow it was deadheading and the pump is gear drive so it pumps till the motor stalls or pump blows up. New pump was $500 and change from Howe tractor plus several days of down time and that pump isn't easiest to get to either.
My suggestion is that you may want to replace that valve to a different model now rather than later.