Loader Replacing FEL controls with Aftermarket - double or single stick

[dtperk]

Hey group,

WITHOUT getting into plumbing this way/that way, power Beyond / tanks, rear 3pt or ANY OF THAT, I would like to know who has had success upgrading/replacing the FACTORY FEL double stick control lever on a YANMAR FEL with an after market stick(s).

Quick background - Unit is a factory YFL-1500 on a 336D. The model year is 1986 (NOT grey market). My tractor did (at one point) have a factory backhoe (model unknown) at one point and had the 3 stick controls mounted to the rear fender.

Again, I don't want to get into how to plumb as eveything on my unit is working as needed. I am seeing a lot of use/wear on the cylinders that control my FEL and heim joints, so I would like to be proactive and swap out the control valve assembly before I have problems.

I know there have to be some of you that have done this type of - upgrade. I would like to keep the single lever setup, but get the better performance of 'moderized' control. I know the replacement needs to be open center and have been looking across some Prince brand valve bodies/controls.

Has ANYONE done this conversion successfully with a dual action, dual cylinder FEL? If it helps with a recommendation, I have 4 lines that run the cylinders on the FEL. Naturally, I have a feed and return line to/from the pump. Recommendations please!!! Thanks in advance gang.
DTP

[guyd]

Close - but not exactly what you want to hear - I had an aftermarket (Hymari) FEL on a YM1500 which I have transplanted onto a FX24D - of similar vintage. The original cheap chinese block wore out, and started to alarmingly drop the bucket instead of slowly dumping. I replaced the valve body with a similar shape (unknown brand - sorry - but Im UK not USA) body, and transplanted the dual controls over too. dual vs twin levers isnt much of an issue - as the hydraulics are identical in my case, it is just a clever mechanism under the rubber boot.

[California]

Make sure the replacement has 'float' when you push the lever beyond 'down'. I've read that some Chinese loaders don't have this and its not universal among replacement controllers. The ability to smooth out spoils by floating the bucket in reverse is an important capability.

[oldnslo]

Yes you can swap out the controls. Just be sure to use the correct valve style for your tractor. be it open or closed center. I noticed on the Prince LVT series they have severl options for spool configurations while on the "Brand" loader valve you can only get float on the second spool which would give the bucket top priority.


Roy

[284 International]

I have replaced the OEM loader valve on one of my machines with a replacement valve. It was straightforward, but bothersome because the valve I found that fit my budget ($35 or something stupidly cheap like that) had a different bolt pattern than my original valve. I don't have any real recommendation. Buy a decent valve of the proper size and bolt pattern, and with the same size and arrangement of ports. The only tip I would have is to clean everything very thoroughly BEFORE you disassemble things. Otherwise it is simple and mine works just fine.

[California]

$35 valve? Where?

I'll figure out a mount for $150~$200 of savings.

[aczlan]

Cheapest one I can find (easily) is: Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE which is $250.

Aaron Z

[284 International]

I'll figure out a mount for $150~$200 of savings.

That was exactly my thought. I found it on Craigslist, a New Old Stock unit from a warehouse being liquidated. They only had one, but it was enough of a bargain that I have nothing to gripe about.

However, it does not have a float position. This is not really a bad thing for my purposes, but it does hinder the ability, as California said, to gently smooth a surface. I would second his suggestion to verify the type of loader valve control you want. It's a simple procedure to swap, but a set of very thin wrenches was very helpful to me in removing the fittings.

[dtperk]

Great input everyone! Thank you.
@Guyd - Thank you as well for the input. Exactly as I am approaching this 'upgrade' - - Similar shape size and looking to minimize the 'clever mechanisms' under the boot Cheers!

@Oldnslo - I agree, Several different options for the Prince line; and YES, get the correct config on the body to meet my 336 needs. I do have PBY off the current loader valve body that runs back to the rear stick body that ran the no-longer existent back hoe. Newer lines had all been put in, have quick disconnects on the fender to fab up some home-brew tools (maybe log splitter, etc) - but didn't want to open that can of worms with this post.

@California - Great tip about the 'FLOAT' feature! This I would have overlooked. Thank you!

@ 284 - Always try to keep the system clean! Don't need 'junk' floating through the lines - You guys might think I'm crazy, but my tractor is actually garaged and my secondary vehicle sits outside - Heck, My tractor and a few high $$$ implements are worth more than my old F250! lol!

@aczlan - Agreed - Wish I would run up on a deal for $35!!! I know this will be a 2-300$$ job. Plus probably some adapter fittings, etc. But I'm sure after the 'upgrade' is done, I will have a much better control 'system' and better response from the FEL. My unit pulls dual-duty as the main 'yard' machine, but I'm also using it for loading/unloading pallets more and more often. A smoother valve body would give me the assurance I am also looking for when dropping pallets full of product on the back of a Semi. Don't need an insurance claim if I can help it! LOL.

Thanks gang for all the great input / ideas - so if anyone finds a deal like 284 did on a two-cylinder body LEMME KNOW!!! I need an open-center body with power-beyond port and now am looking for the float feature.
DTP
She ain't pretty, but a darn work horse! I love my tractor!

[winston1]

Nice pictures, I like the muffler patch.