The kiss of Death? YM1700

[puresol]

Oh boy where to start.
I did not notice nor did my diesel mechanic friend a weld on the block when we originally inspected the tractor. I purchased the tractor and brought it home. I have worked out some bugs. I noticed the weld but have never seen any coolant leaking at that spot, or any where else for that matter. Friday I got my new radiator cap from Hoye. I removed the old motor craft cap rated at 16 psi and put on the 13 psi cap. Started the tractor and let it idle for 30 minutes. There it was- coolant running down the block. Not really a heavy flow, but bad enough to give great concern. If I constantly monitor the fluid level is it ok to run the tractor. Can the block be repaired? My father in law suggested prepping the block with a solvent remover and heavy grit sand paper, then using high temp JB weld pushed in and then built up. It will supposedly take 500 degrees and 800psi. He said after that he would put KW Block seal and follow the directions. I have heard of people using similar products with great success. Any one out there have any stories or past experience with these products?
Odd part is when I put the old cap back on it stopped leaking? I drained the oil and it did not appear to have water in it, nor do I see any oil in the water.

[winston1]

If your crack is accessible for welding a good welder could repair it. I have heard of good results with JB Weld. I would go with a good welder if possible. Just my opinion.

You won't hurt the tractor to run it as long as you watch your coolant level.

[California]

Sounds like that wasn't really a 16 psi cap.

Lots of old tractors have welds that repaired freeze damage. It's not a 'kiss of death', just another bug to work out to put the tractor in service. A dealer on here posted recently that he has welded several Yanmars and they are easier than most because the block is better metal than the typical cylinder block.

I would find a local welding shop with an excellent reputation in this specialty - maybe ask an auto dealership or heavy equipment shop where they send theirs. If you can find the right specialist it will be as good as new.



Not really relevant - I've welded cast iron garden furniture (metal quality unknown and assumed low grade) using expensive high-nickel welding rod, after reading up on technique. This seems to require all-over preheating, and very short duration welds because excess heat at the joint makes cast iron brittle adjacent to the weld. The repairs turned out fine, the two legs I welded back together have taken as much abuse from dragging the furniture around as the undamaged ones. I was pleased with myself to tackle the unknown with no experience (and an old AC stick welder) and get good results ... But if it had been my tractor I would have taken it to a professional welder instead. There are times when it doesn't pay to cheapskate a project.

[clemsonfor]

I second wHAT WINSTON SAID

[sweettractors]

I have always operated under the assumption that it was against the law to sell a tractor with a busted or welded block. Of course, if it was disclosed before the sale, everyone knew what they were getting into. Ken Sweet

[clemsonfor]

maybe in your state? never heard of that one? And I think that is the problem, I don't think this guy knew!

[puresol]

maybe in your state? never heard of that one? And I think that is the problem, I don't think this guy knew!

He didnt know. In the time he owned the tractor he probably didnt work on/with the tract as much as I have already. Even if it was a law what would I do sue him? In Georgia its "buyer beware"

[deepNdirt]

The trick is when welding an engine block do not grind back off the weld in an effort to not let it be seen, The fact is its much better leaving the weld built up, Lay out a bead on each side of the crack and then finish it up with jointing them in the middle,
Not sure if a Block sealer will work on this kind of cooling system, I'm not saying it won't, but there's no water pump to move the particles around as might be needed, I've used it with successful results on car engine head gaskets, not on an actual crack in an engine block,

[puresol]

The trick is when welding an engine block do not grind back off the weld in an effort to not let it be seen, The fact is its much better leaving the weld built up, Lay out a bead on each side of the crack and then finish it up with jointing them in the middle,
Not sure if a Block sealer will work on this kind of cooling system, I'm not saying it won't, but there's no water pump to move the particles around as might be needed, I've used it with successful results on car engine head gaskets, not on an actual crack in an engine block,

Good thought about the block sealer. I think I will stay away from that. I looked again last night at the leak. The leak appears to be coming from from the top of the weld, almost like its pourus or didnt bond well. With the old radiator cap on I can watch it seep out. I think I will clean it thoroughly, rough it up with some sand paper and try high heat JB weld. It is suppose to stand up to 500 degress and 800psi, neither of which I should ever reach. I have been dong alot of reading and there are quite a few happy endings using JB weld. I think alot of it has to do with the prep work to make sure you get a good tight bond. Will let yall know how it goes! If you dont see any more post from me I guess you will know how it went

[clemsonfor]

That hig heat stuff really can take it. I have a lady here at work who is into hit n miss and old JDs she has talked about using it on Exhaust manifolds.