Power Beyond from in series plumbing a loader valve on 3810 etc.

[Car Doc]

Rather than hijack California's thread where this topic was being discussed I figured I would start a new one. I have been talking about doing this since I first studied the plumbing and thought there is no way this can work properly 3 years ago.

My loader was working about so-so is the best I can describe it and the curl is non existent most of the time its just pitiful. Kenmac sent me pics last year of how he plumbed his and that helped me he gave me a real decent explanation along with the pictorial so thanks Kenmac!

I would add I don't have any real experience with the setup now other than I went a got a bucket of rock and went down the driveway and spread it thin. I noticed now I can shake the bucket to empty it I couldn't do that before also my regen detent on the curl works that never worked before either so it seems to be better already but time will tell.

Oh and I used QC fittings because my loader is a QA and I made a hose to jump the pressure line when loader is off so that's out of the way in case I ever need to use it w/o the loader on.

I will simply post the pics I went and captioned them so hopefully its self explanatory. Oh well shoot the captions didn't get transferred sorry maybe I will manually do it somehow dang it anyway.




Ok from top left to bottom right-1)PB sleeve and closed center plug. Dont use plug in PB routing. 2)Final return to sump on trany. 3) Final plumbing set up. 4) Return at back of valve w/90. 5) Plate being cleaned up after plasma cut. 6) Marking plate on 1/4 steel. 7) Notice the return is plugged! A mistake I wont be doing again I hope. 8) Some new parts. 9) Lines bent back close to where I needed them. 10) Old plumbing in series. 11) Old OE inspection plate on trany. 12) Final QC fittings installation in pressure line from diverter valve to 3 pt.

[winston1]

Nice job, I notice you have quick disconnects on your pressure line coming off the pump. JJ warns if those should happen to come loose we stand the possibility of pump damage. I have been runnning mine like that for a long time but I am going to change it. I have fittings and a hose ordered to go to the power beyond. When it all comes in I am going to post it. Thanks for sharing your conversion.

[Scotty Dive]

Could I ask for someone to draw a flow diagram including loader, pump and 3 point? Please?

[kenmac]

Could I ask for someone to draw a flow diagram including loader, pump and 3 point? Please?

If you don't have the same loader valve your's maybe different plumbing.I could probably tell you better than I can draw it. This is a description of how mine & car docs is plumbed.

High pressure from pump (small line) route this line to inlet to feed loader valve. (Should have a P on loader valve for pressure.) T on loader valve is the return to tank line. Next will be the PB from loader valve connects to small line to 3 pt. That's it

[JCByrd24]

I'll throw out that another option, my loader valve stays on the tractor, qdcs are on the loader work ports. Gives you the option of using valve for other functions and eliminates the pesky qdc on the unprotected pressure line.

[winston1]

I'll throw out that another option, my loader valve stays on the tractor, qdcs are on the loader work ports. Gives you the option of using valve for other functions and eliminates the pesky qdc on the unprotected pressure line.

That is how I am hoping to plumb mine when I get my fittings.

[kenmac]

Car doc. Glad to see you got it completed. I think you'll like it ! I hope the 1/2'' return line works out ok for you . 1st time, I used all 1/2'' fittings / pipe and still didn't have enough flow back to tank.Mine now works very well with the 3/4 fittings and pipe

[Car Doc]

Thanks guys for all the tips and comments as always and thanks again to Kenmac for taking the time and effort to help!

Winston since I mentioned this to you the other day this made me think of that- I re-tested my relief that's in the diverter block (where the P/S gets feed) when I mis routed the lines the first time and had the closed center plug in the tank outlet on the loader valve (see pic).

I can tell you if the pressure line comes off because the QC unlatches it will bypass its not a perfect situation but it will and give me time to deal with it. Having the QC may only be used once in a blue moon and cost me extra now but I try to engineer with expansion in mind good or bad that's just me. This cost me right at $200 but will be worth every bit of it if it makes the loader work right.

I also think I am going to retest all my relief settings the loader valve seems to be bypassing now at least I think that's what I am hearing? The whole hydraulic system has a different sound is what I noticed right away its subtle but its there. I am stuck inside with no real tractor work I can do its too cold but here soon I have a lot of stuff I need to do. So will get a chance to work it and see how it performs I am stoked to maybe have a loader I wont have to wait on for every move especially curl to dump!

(the power down is real fast least it sure seems fast so I may re-time all the movements like we did on that other thread when I get more time)

[Car Doc]

I'll throw out that another option, my loader valve stays on the tractor, qdcs are on the loader work ports. Gives you the option of using valve for other functions and eliminates the pesky qdc on the unprotected pressure line.

I like your idea! I don't know if I personally need it or not but that would save me money on another joystick should I ever need it in the future. Mounting the stick on a bracket that stayed with the tractor would be very simple that's good thinking thanks!

[Car Doc]

Car doc. Glad to see you got it completed. I think you'll like it ! I hope the 1/2'' return line works out ok for you . 1st time, I used all 1/2'' fittings / pipe and still didn't have enough flow back to tank.Mine now works very well with the 3/4 fittings and pipe

I know you are right on with that advice looking at the fittings I will probably see the day I do just that. These fittings are about 3/8 inside the fact it seems better is probably because there is less restriction now than thru the 3pt plumbing dumping straight into the sump now.

I can switch over to 3/4 pretty easy a lot easier than the change to where I am at now anyway if/when the need arises.