Newly Rebuilt Tractor Overheating

[RickB]

Well pointing fingers at the head gasket is a dead end, the temp readings don't indicate a true overheat, and the cooling system doesn't seem to have any flow restrictions. It's time to open up the range of possibilities.

It sure wouldn't be the first time a Yanmar/Deere engine cracked a head.

 

[Car Doc]

Yeah Kenmac is right he did say the head was done at a machine shop it was surfaced and valve job done doesn't mean they didn't miss something but at least someone has looked at it.

He was originally talking about excessive coolant overflow along with what he perceived as overheat which most of us said the temps he was seeing were not overheat. The overflow would indicate the head gasket was not sealing and that's where we got on the mis-torque ideas.

 

[kenmac]

I agree, Head could be cracked. I was just pointing out that, in another thread he had some head work performed.I think he's had a couple threads on this tractor

 

[RickB]

I've seen heads that were pressure checked (cold) and magnafluxed that ended up being junk because of cracks in obscure places. They only opened up at operating temps.
It doesn't have to be somebody's "fault".

 

[Car Doc]

This is true Rick anything is possible never say never they say. :thumbsup:

 

[Coyote machine]

Sounded like an exhaust gases leak due to an improperly torqued head gasket; no one's fault, just cause and effect. Once you retorqued the problem seems to have resolved itself so far. I'd personally go back after about 50-100 hours and see where the head bolts are at that amount of use. I also wouldn't try to make it blow up by running it as hard as possible until it has some medium duty hours on it, assuming you want it to last.
What are you using for a torque wrench? A bar with dial indicator or a set to # and listen for click type? I was surprised recently to find the most accurate are the older type pointer on dial, NOT the set and click type. Try another torque wrench, just for comparison and see what results you get.
I would not use anti-seize of any kind on a head bolt. I wire wheel them until clean, lightly oil and then dry excess oil and torque 'em down.

 

[kenmac]

I would not use anti-seize of any kind on a head bolt. I wire wheel them until clean, lightly oil and then dry excess oil and torque 'em down.

I'm with you on the anti-seize. Back in the day I owned a drag car. I always used a small amount of oil on the head bolts and torqued them down. Cranked the engine and let it run for a period of time and re- torque

 

[Coyote machine]

I'm with you on the anti-seize. Back in the day I owned a drag car. I always used a small amount of oil on the head bolts and torqued them down. Cranked the engine and let it run for a period of time and re- torque

Oil,Yes, anything else throws off the actual torque readings.

 

[HoyeTractor]

I had a chart one time that showed how different types of lubes affected clamping force. I don't remember the actual numbers but I do remember the difference was amazing. Even just different weights of motor oil made a few lbs difference.

 

[Car Doc]

Yeah oil is the best on a blind hole but sealer is required on wet holes like Chevy v8's etc even it has anti friction quality's better than dry or dirty AND dry. You HP guys already know arp uses a moly lube on their fasteners.

You can feel when a bolt or nut is tight its not rocket science. Torque to yield is the exception but we dont have them on tractors thank goodness.