Yanmar 1500D Engine Runs Full Speed
- Thread starter gweishaar
- Start date
I'm not jsal007 but he may be talking about the injection pump plungers or guides. I believe he is just warning not to take the injection pump apart, rather just work at getting it freed up. Not saying not to take it out to gain access. Just what I think he is saying, may be all wet. :confused3:
clemsonfor
Super Member
i read it as do not dissasemble the pump itself as well.
So if you look at my photo on the previous page, I will loosen injector tubing, take off the fuel supply tubing, loosen and remove the nuts that hold the pump on the tractor, note closely the shims & pull the pump out. I assume there is a connection somewhere in there to the pump so I will be careful not to break anything, disconnect the spring if possible, do not disassemble the pump, try to free what is in a bind and after freeing the bind, replace the pump in the reverse of how I took it out/off??? Can anyone confirm that has actually removed the pump on a 1500D?
clemsonfor
Super Member
I may be wrong but can you even see the "plungers" by just removing them pump? i would thing taht there internal to the operation of the pump?
I don't know about the pumps on first hand experience but from my reading I know some people have had success freeing up their pump. Just looking at this picture of the pump I would think penetrating oil could be sprayed in the rack opening which should reach the little gears and some part of the plungers. Although we can't see the underside I know their are rollers under there that run on the cam. I would think penetrating oil in that area should also do some good. Finally and most importantly, don't take my word as "authority" on the matter.
http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=IP-200
S Putnik
Bronze Member
Assuming the IP is fuel lubricated as many are, LubroMoly Diesel Purge is a fuel additive that might help free your governor rack without removing the IP. You can run the stuff straight to circulate it trough the fuel system, let it sit overnight and start again in the morning with regular fuel.
It's a long shot, but might save several hours of wrenching.
If you do take the IP off, Berryman B-12 Chemtool works really well for dissolving fuel varnish.
It's a long shot, but might save several hours of wrenching.
If you do take the IP off, Berryman B-12 Chemtool works really well for dissolving fuel varnish.
So you think I can just unscrew the bolts and remove the fuel lines and pull the I pump out. Is anything else connected to the pump inside? I don't want ot break anything. Does the pump just run on a cam without anything else connected? That is what the Hoyt photo of the I pump suggests????????
Take off the cover plate(W/blow by tube) above the pump,and there should be a spring ?? hooked to the pump-don't stretch it or damage it. Never had to remove one yet-just repeating what I have read on other posts. The pump runs on a cam,but you have to disconect the linkage before you just unbolt it and pull it out.
Barry, and all thanks for the help. I will be at my lakehouse this weekend and will remove the cover plate as you suggested, remove the spring, remove the fuel lines, remove the I-pump while keeping a close eye on the shims, will not take the I-pump apart and try to free up what is stuck before replacing all the parts. This time I will take some photoes just to be sure when I re-assemble all looks the same.
Thanks again for the suggestions and help.
Thanks again for the suggestions and help.