Re: YM 1700 cylinder sleeve

**Car Doc** · 06-04-2013, 10:29 AM

Cracks are easier to find with dye for the doityourselfer machine shops use a magnet and colored metal dust usually. fwtw Magnaflux makes a small inexpensive dye kit some auto parts stores carry. Its got 3 small aerosol cans one is cleaner other is red dye and the last one is developer.

Like I always say spray oil is your friend I would get some in around the top of the sleeves now it cant hurt. I have welded things inside sleeves before to have something to pound on or pull against. A heavy and solid precision stepped piece made to fit exactly across the sleeve at the bottom and not touch the block and a big threaded rod through it and a think plate or U bracket across the deck is the way they are supposed to be removed in a perfect world the dry ice will definitely help also. good luck

I am still very curious about the valve kissing mark on that piston I sure wouldn't put it back together until I found the reason.

**puresol** · 06-04-2013, 12:07 PM

Hopefully the shop will find the problem with the valve- they are suppose to re-work the head. Still no word from them......Maybe I need to give them a call, but I dont want to seem pushy. Definately wont re-install with out feeling confident the problems are fixed, may take some time.

**Car Doc** · 06-04-2013, 01:04 PM

Just for conversation but the valve springs on these are very weak to start with, apparently by design but you can push them down with a thumb. So if your shop doesn't have any Yanmar info they hopefully can compare the seat pressure and installed height with a spec out of your book that's a reason to call I suppose?

I thought of another reason the valve could be that low in the cylinder. And that is if by chance it had had seats installed a some point and one had slipped down it would put the valve closer to the piston just thinking out loud.

**puresol** · 06-04-2013, 03:22 PM

I talked to the shop and basically nothing has been done. He doesnt want to magnaflux the head with the injectors in and cant get the injectors out. Doesnt sound good, could be like my tiller- 12 weeks -3 shops- and still had to fix the transmission myself.

**Car Doc** · 06-04-2013, 04:45 PM

He will have to get them and the pre chambers out if the head isn't straight? I dont get it either geez 4 valves is all he has to do and its too tough wow I would walk but that's me.

I dont understand the reasoning why he doesn't want to stick a magnet on the head with injectors in and spray some powder on it that defies logic. If here is 1 crack the head anywhere (and it will usually be in he combustion area) its junk so why get so involved in tear down to the inth degree check whats visible and go on is what I would do and put a straight edge on it. 2 simple procedures can save a lot of work for nothing jmho..

I would like to see you get the injectors out simply because later on you may need them out for other reasons like checking compression etc but the magnaflux thing is odd. I realize there can be cracks there also but 1 anywhere or if the head is warped bad enough its all junk.

**puresol** · 06-04-2013, 05:00 PM

Yep that was my conclusion...take my ball and go play some where else. Unfortunately Im not off again until Friday but if nothing has happened by then I will pick the head up and go else where. Unfortunately I am stuck until I find out if the head is good or not. I got the tractor cheeeaappp (no wonder) basically with the attachments I have very little if anything in the tractor so I have some room to move on repairs.

**Car Doc** · 06-04-2013, 05:12 PM

Oh you will be ok on the engine it was running so it cant be a total loss long as parts are available. Even if you have to find a head and put liners and pistons in hey it will be like new again. So hang in there you get the right guy on it it could all be a lot easier than you think good luck.

**puresol** · 06-04-2013, 10:01 PM

ok made the first attempt at removing a sleeve. My puller conceptually is solid, nothing bent, broke, or otherwise malfunctioned. That being said I didnt budge the sleeve, I got scared....Its true. I got it to the point that I could no longer tighten it with pliers. My adjustable wrench wasnt big enough, vice grips were being used to keep the threaded rod still. Will come at her tomorrow with a much bigger wrench. How much force are we talking?

**kenmac** · 06-04-2013, 10:20 PM

I haven't offered any advise here as, I have never removed a sleeve from a yanmar .Mine has been trouble free (thus far)..I'm wondering if it would hurt to put a little heat (like a propane torch) to it while trying to remove it ? Seems like You are making progress and I wish you the best

**puresol** · 06-05-2013, 06:34 AM

The heat would cause the metal to expand.....Maybe that would help break the bond. I will give it a shot. Figure to put a little PB blaster on there before I go to work. If that doesn't work I will break out the dry ice. I appreciate any help or suggestions made. Thank you. Will post sleeve puller pics if it works.

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