YM1500 Bearing in front end

[mszb]

I am getting some squeeking in the left front tire on my YM1500. How often do the bearings need to be repacked? Is that little "hub cap" on there just pryed off does it screw off? The drawing in the manual does not help much except making it look pretty simple inside.

 

[pruntyc]

If the 1500 is the same as the 1700, there is a little indent on the cap, after you clean it off good, that you can put a screwdrive blade into and it prys off. The dealer where I bought mine told me, they don't generally repack them, they replace the bearing with a bearing that is sealed and never needs repacked. So I souldn't worry about mine till it went bad. I looked at it and it seemed to have plenty of grease. I just remembered he also said I might have to beat on it a little bit to get it loose enough to get it off, I think I did have to do that also.

 

[mszb]

How does one know when it has "gone bad"?

 

[pruntyc]

Good question, I don't know, but if I were you, I would take the cap off, and see how it looks. I did mine and it seemed to have a lot of grease in it, so I put the cap back on.

 

[Bob85355]

Back in the 50's we'd simply clean the bearning in solvent, check for obvious wear, repack or replace. I suspect with sealed bearing you take a good SWAG and replace.

Shortly after purchasing my YM 1500, I checked for play in the front wheels. The left simply would not adjust. I bought a new bearing from one of the dealers on the forum, put it on and everything has been ok for over three years. I only put 40 hours a year on the tractor and I guess the bearing wouldn't need repacking for 10 years.

Bob

 

[DetroitMike]

If your set up is anything like older cars, packing the bearings is simple, quick, and will possibly save future damage. You have to remove them and clean out the old grease, both from the bearings and the hub/spindle. That old grease traps all kinds of nasty things like dirt and metal shavings and that is what chews up parts.

Take it apart and use mineral spirits or gasoline to clean the parts real well. Then inspect the bearing rollers and the race. If there is any scapes, scuffs, discoloration, or anything that just doesn't look right, replace both. Pack the bearings and coat the spindle with a good quality EP (extreme pressure) wheel bearing grease and you should be all set.

Just because theres grease in there, it doesn't mean its any good. And I generally do this every couple years, but more often if you're running through alot of mud or water. Old Grease can not only cook the bearings, but if left go to long , can damage the hub and or spindle. And that will cost alot more than a can of grease.

 

[mszb]

Thanks that's the kind of info I needed.

 

[pruntyc]

I was only telling you what my dealer told me about the sealed bearing, from what he said they don't wear out very often as they are turning so slow, that is why they don't even fool with them to repack. Think about how slow they turn on a tractor, I don't think they will burn out, maybe cut up with dryness.

 

[mszb]

I guess it is reasonable to assume that 25 year old grease could stand to be replaced even it I am not having any trouble. An once of prevention is better than a pound of cure. As they say.

 

[rrw1238]

You will know when it has gone completly bad when it freezes up or starts to wobble. Trouble is by that time you will probably have ruined the spindle. Rule thumb is if it sqeeking its costing you money. The longer it squeeks the more it going to cost to repair.
I would recommend that you pull it and replace it now. It should have some numbers on it and if you take the bearings to a bearing seller they can cross reference it and get you the correct bearing. If you do not live near a place the specializes in bearings you Can probably find one on the internet. You may need to buy a dial caliper and take measurements onit for them. Harbor freight has dial calipers for about 15 dollars and digital read out ones for 20.
Ralph