Price Check Yanmar 240 Value?

[Gale Hawkins]

Is a tractor as per the text below even worth $1200 if it would start and run?

Purchased as "non-running tractor". Got it started and smoked too much. Installed rings and inserts. Now it won't start. My loss you gain. It is 25 hp. 2-cylinder diesel. 3-point, PTO all work, Good tires.

 

[California]

I would buy it. I've owned one for ten years and like this model.

But in this particular case, budget another few hundred $ at most to unscrew whatever he screwed up when he put it back together. Still a bargain, and likely it will need nothing more than some hours of analyzing what isn't right.

If you're lucky all it needs is bleeding the air out of the fuel line. Or maybe he didn't understand how to adjust the valves. I doubt its an expensive problem, these things are too simple to need much.

Running? I would say well over $2,000 depending on location. Over $3,000 out here. Search for 'YM2000' for comparables, those come up for sale more frequently and they are simply the Japan-market version of the same tractor.

 

[deepNdirt]

I'm not a tractor value assessor, although when I look at something I'll tend to itemize things of value, Like looking at the wheels/tires of this tractor could be worth over 1/2 the price, or the hood/sheet metal, radiator, etc,etc, if at worst case I could still recoup my $$$ ,
I'd say even if having to invest another 1,000 in it, it would be worth 2-3k just as California stated,

 

[clemsonfor]

I would say that its worth $1200, even if it has to be parted out. You could easily get $300 for the rear tires, the rear trans section could easily bring $500 to someone who needs it, radiator $50, sheetmetal another $200 maybe.

Unless tehre is a hole in the block or you cant turn the crank by hand with a big socket i would say go for it.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks.
I know of no one that owns one in this part of the country. On hilly ground do they tend to be semi stable? Will they do as much work as a red belly Ford? what size finish rear mower will the tractor handle okay? What would be the weight range of that naked tractor?

 

[California]

In terms of capability, think of a 7/8 scale 8N. The engine is 24 hp vs the 8N's 27 hp. 1800 lbs vs 2700 (?) for the 8N, plus used 8N's are more likely to come with additional ballast. Dealers say run a 4 ft rotary mower on a YM240.

In in my experience a 4 ft rotary mower can work it hard in waist-high wet orchard grass if half the mowing is uphill as in my case. But I think putting an 8N's 5 ft mower on the 240 will get more acreage done per day than a 4 ft and won't strain it if you take a partial cut in the heaviest material. YM240's compound low gears are a definite advantage over 8N especially for a rototiller, or for creeping up to a pallet using front forks etc. And it can maneuver better in tight spaces. They are narrow, I added a ROPS and water in the tires before I felt safe on side slopes.

I think the only point where an 8N is clearly better is discing - its added weight for traction and its 3-point lift capacity are greater.

The advantage of a YM240 is that its bulletproof. No tuneup, nothing to tinker with or maintain, and it will run like new for years. There's nothing breakable; I made every sort of idiot-new-owner mistake and never broke or wore out anything in ten years. You seldom see posts here about repairs beyond keeping the cooling system maintained etc.

Don't know if you are aware - Yanmar entered the US market in the 1970's parallel to Kubota and YM240 was a model they sold here for several years through authorized dealers. Then later Yanmar contracted to build Deere's compacts and ended US sales until their recent re-entry. Yanmar-USA still supports this model with legitimate factory parts. I like to think this specific Yanmar was what spooked Deere into contracting Yanmar to build for them, instead of designing their own compacts in-house, they recognized they couldn't exceed its quality.

Now today a huge number of YM2000, the Japan-market version, have been brought over and a healthy replica parts market exists here selling NAPA quality replacements. So YM240 has both factory and 3rd-party support.

I see a MF265 in your profile. Think of this as a smaller sized version of it. I'm certain you will love the YM240 as soon as you get the prior owner's confusion sorted out.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks for the info. I am as green as grass about them but I am learning they are good machines even painted lime green.

Yes the 265 MF is a solid tractor with not even 12v required to keep running after started. It is stable but way too heavy to mow extended lawns if it has rained recently.

We are going to look a portable horse barn today for the minis so they are not standing out in freezing rain six weeks from now. Saw the 240 in the process of looking for fast horse housing. I may get to check out the 240 tomorrow if it is still for sale. Expect someone will part it out based on what is being posted. Never had or wanted a red belly but would like a small light tractor. I could get it on my 3500 single axle tilt trailer I expect because it is rated to carry about 2400 pound loads.

 

[California]

... even painted lime green.

Yes the 265 MF is a solid tractor with not even 12v required to keep running after started...

I could get it on my 3500 single axle tilt trailer I expect because it is rated to carry about 2400 pound loads.

The weird green was a marketing mistake. It must have meant hip, modern, like a green polyester leisure suit, when they started using it. Thankfully they came to their senses for the later models.

No 12v needed on these if you want to carry a single battery around to start each of your fleet in the morning. The manual discusses this, says leave the key off if no battery. The marine version of this engine (2Q-something) has a hand crank option. And no fuel shutoff solenoid or fuel pump between tank and injector pump. The starter, lights, horn are the only electric items. Stuff that isn't present can't cause problems.

I brought mine home 100 miles on a 4k rated U-haul rental behind an old Trooper rated to tow 2k. It hasn't been off the property since, no need. I expect your single-axle trailer would be fine if driven cautiously.

This model sounds perfect for the use you describe.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Did call the guy. He as sold about 20 yanmars since retiring 20 years ago along with many other small tractors more or less as a hobby. He said this is the only Yanmar he gave up on getting to run and he did not want to sell it to me until he found out it would be a project for me and the kids. He does not junk tractors but stated it would junk out for more. If I like it and have the money after a barn he said he will put it in my driveway. He thinks $300 will get it running. Fuel is not getting to injector pump per him. His younger partner did the rings and inserts but never got it to run again and at 80 the seller said he knew when to fold on a business deal where selling at a profit is never going to happen. He states the tractor starter turns the engine just fine and he thinks the tractor will be fine when someone gets fuel to the injector pump.

From what you stated maybe a gravity flow test option could be rigged up to get it to running since the marine version does not use a lift pump I took from your last post.

 

[California]

Guess I was unclear. No lift pump on YM240. And crank start available for marine version.

If he has repaired/sold 20 Yanmars and can't get this one running that would give me pause. But ... if he really means no fuel arrives at the inlet to the injector pump, and he can't fix that, then he's going senile or something. It's a straight gravity path from fuel tank > fuel filter (external, not part of the tank) > and down to the injector pump inlet banjo fitting. The bleeding procedure is: open each in turn until pure fuel flows. first the one on top of the fuel filter nearest the tank. Then the one on the output side of the filter. Then the bleeder down on the injector pump inlet banjo. You could do this while he watches - just take a large Phillips screwdriver and/or a couple of small wrenches - 10mm? If nothing makes it down to the injector pump, investigate. A fourth grader could do it.

I would be more cautious if he is afraid to sell it as is, but I can't believe there could be an expensive problem if it cranks over and seems to have compression. Worst case might be an injector pump. $350 from Hoye. I don't know why he would touch that doing a ring job so it is unlikely he damaged it.