RS1600A tiller

[blackd]

I learned that lesson re: the gates the first day I owned a 16' trailer. Picked it up, empty. Went ~120miles miles to pick up metal to make a FEL. At the 1/2 way point I took the gates off and threw the gates into the back of the truck. Mileage went from ~8-9MPG (gates on and up) to ~15-16MPG (gates in the back of the truck.) Truck was a Nissan V6, auto. Usual mileage was in the 16-18MPG range.

BTW, I had a Yannie FX24D with which I used the same tiller. No problem with that ~25HP tractor. Replaced the FX with a smaller MF GC2400, 18.5 HP tractor. Frame wasn't quite big enough for the tiller and would turn the tiller but couldn't keep it high enough. Same experience getting stuck coming out of the tilled garden. I now have a 4' Caroni. Just right for the tractor. BTW, sold the Yannie tiller to a fellow with a bigger IH, and he loves it.

 

[California]

I don't see how it's worth more than as scrap, although I do have the short PTO shaft and I won' t scrap that.

When a set of tines appears on Ebay, the asking price is about equal to a whole tiller. And shipping them wouldn't be difficult/expensive if you use Priority Mail boxes.

Likewise if you have the whole Upper Link Assembly, which is a 'bridge' that bolts to the tractor plus a special short upper link link, that assembly is hard to find and should fetch a good price.

And of course the special tiller pto shaft is worth something.

You might recover most of your cost selling these components on Ebay then scrapping the hulk.

 

[longrangelarry]

Thanks guys. I don't have the special top link or the bridge- this is a true 3 pt and not the 2 pt. The other tiller I was looking at is indeed the 2 pt. so at best it only works on one of the two tractors- mine. Are you saying it would be worth removing the tines to sell? That makes sense now that I think about it. They appear to be the originals, which I understand are more valuable, but how do I tell for sure? They seem to have the rice paddy shape (curved, not L-shaped) and that looks worn even when it is not, but I can't post pictures for about 3 weeks. So if there's a distinctive feature, let me know. The bolts are rusted pretty good but I can work on them when I have time- no rush. That is such a great suggestion I would never have thought of on my own.

I have since found a couple excellent tillers posted near by Ky place at a very reasonable prices. One is listed as a Kubota and the other is a Howard. My management buddy was right in that these things seem to pop up as winter approaches, and prices go down as well.

I have learned so much on this forum, as I did on the Wheel Horse forum a couple years ago when I had one of those. Ultimately I had to give it up too- just too much time demands, and I need to use my tools, not work on them. But these forums are fabulous.

 

[winston1]

First picture is well worn original Yanmar tines. Second picture is the ones available now.

 

[longrangelarry]

Well it's obvious now. I have the original tines, and they are well worn too! About like the ones in your picture. So I guess my work is cut out for me- removing them when I get the time, one or two at a time. Are the nuts important? As I recall they are well rusted. Might get a cutter for them- one of those screw-in jobs that wouldn't mess up the bolt. Or does the bolt matter? If not, it's going to go a lot quicker!
I sure appreciate the effort to take those pictures (even if they weren't just for me) and post them. I will not retire for another few months and I actually can afford the loss on this tiller, but I would feel a whole lot better about the whole thing if I could recover some of the cost. In other words, I wouldn't feel so stupid when I pull up to the recycle center with something I just bought! It wasn't until I really got to working with the thing that I realized the case was an oil bath issue, and that the break went right through a bearing race. I don't think it ever had a chance.

Thanks! I will post pictures when I get them, just for the sake of everyone's curiosity.

 

[California]

Thanks guys. I don't have the special top link or the bridge- this is a true 3 pt and not the 2 pt. The other tiller I was looking at is indeed the 2 pt.

The special upper link component I am calling a 'bridge' is shown in this tiller diagram, and in this photo (copied from someone else).

Note in place of a standard upper link, there is a fixed component bolted to the tractor then a very short special upper link. Yanmar did it this way to change the geometry. Using this, the tiller doesn't get closer to the tires when it lifts, as it would with a standard upper link. This is still a 3-point tiller and attaches in moments like any 3-point implement, in contrast to a 2-point tiller bolted semi-permanently to a tractor that lacks 3-point components.

If you're lucky that special assembly was included with the tiller, and is worth some money.

 

[winston1]

I think the 1600 will have 12mm bolts. Hoye sells the set of bolts, nuts and washers for $20 + shipping. Might shop around and find them cheaper than that. I reused mine when I changed my tines.

 

[longrangelarry]

Thanks again. Winston, I can afford $20- at least until i retire in Jan!

California, I see what you mean. I don't have that fixed piece nor the short top link. No training wheels either. What had me confused was the other tiller I was looking at was the 2 point, with the mount bolted on. All that top piece does is extend the pivot point away from the wheels, whereas on the 2 pt it looks like it is actually substituting for the top link assembly. No matter- I think I know what to do. I will return to my property when deer season opens next month and perhaps in between hunting sessions I will try removing a couple tines. The nuts & bolts are rusty and I think any new owner of the tines would prefer new bolts anyway, so I'll probably cut or grind the bolts off, taking care not to damage the tine, of course. Any suggestions on that? Otherwise, I will stumble onward.

Thanks again.

 

[MN Charlie]

My 1510D came with a 2 point attachment RS1202 tiller. Here are a couple of photos. Sorry that you really can't see the tractor side bracket very well in this photo. It's very much like a shield around the top of the PTO with a couple of ears with holes where the bracket from the tiller attaches.

 

[longrangelarry]

Whoa! I think I better stay away from these things- too confusing! I would not appreciate that if not for all the help. I am currently fishing in Wyoming but when I get back home, shopping for a different tiller will resume. Meanwhile, if anyone wants dibs on tines, they will probably start coming off next month. The short PTO shaft will also be available.