YM1700 Rear Axle Seals

   / YM1700 Rear Axle Seals #1  

hefleyrb

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Messages
3
Location
South Carolina
Tractor
Yanmar YM1700
I am trying to replace the left rear axle seal on my YM1700. According to my manual, there are 2 snap rings on the axle - inner and outer ends. I have removed the PTO unit for access to the inner end. I thought I could slide the whole axle out by removing the snap ring on the inner end ( I could then have the hub pressed off in a local shop.) However, I cannot see the inner snap ring - I assume it is behind the drive gear. I cannot slide the gear off of the shaft due to the differential locking mechanism (which is located on the left side also) being in the way. Am I on the right track here? What means do you recommend for pulling the hub with the axle in place? I am considering a 3-jaw bearing puller while heating the hub. Do you think this will work without breaking the hub? Is this a special seal or will NAPA likely have it?

Thanks
 
   / YM1700 Rear Axle Seals #2  
Can't help you with information specific to your 1700 Randy, but I know my YM240 drum brakes have secondary axles that are slaved to the main (rear) axles. I discovered this when I couldn't get a brake drum housing off to replace an O-ring. Again, the 1700 might be engineered completely different, but perhaps you're encountering resistance from the brake axle(s).

//greg//
 
   / YM1700 Rear Axle Seals #3  
Randy, you don't have to remove the axle to replace the seals. remove the hub, with a puller ( sometime it will have to be heated ) then remove the 4 bolts on the oil seal case. Take the oil seal case off and the seal will be in it. Check the bearing and the oil seal collar and replace if needed. If the collar has any rough places on it then replace it. You may find a seal that is close at NAPA, but you won't find the collar there. I have seals & collars for your tractor.
Danny
Parker Equipment Co
 
   / YM1700 Rear Axle Seals
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I'm too hard-headed to give up easily so I finally got it apart. After trying the blue wrench and three-jawed puller without success, I did have to pull the entire left axle housing assembly. This requires the PTO assembly to be removed - just take off the smaller bolts and 2 nuts - not the 4 big ones. After removing the left drive gear bolt (letting the drive gear stay in the rear end), the axle assembly slid out easily. I pulled the inner bearing (they are both common 6209 bearings) I was able to drive the shaft and outer bearing etc. out the wheel end of the housing. Then I cut (oxy/acet. torch) the outer race and ball cage off of the outer bearing and slid everything (except the inner race and seal collar (this is a replaceable steel ring on the axle journal that wears instead of the axle itself - it has a teflon type inner liner to prevent seepage) off the differential end of the shaft. I was then able to place the bare axle with the stuck wheel hub down into a 2' length of 4" pipe and drive it out with a piece of 1 1/2" brass hex stock and a 6lb. sledge hammer. I was afraid I might break the hub but it's pretty tough. By the way, the snap rings stay on the axle through the whole process - they fit on the shaft toward the inside of both bearings and just serve as a stop for the bearings when they are installed.

This splined shaft/hub should normally come apart without doing all of this but mine had some corrosion that made it pretty tough. I can get both bearings and the Garlock seal locally but I'll have to order the axle seal collar. Thanks for the reply.

Randy /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
 
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