YM1700 shutdown

[sirgknight]

Been a long time since I visited here. I have owned an early model (mid-1970's) YM1700 for about 10 years and have had no serious problems with it at all. Today as I was using my scrape blade the engine started slowing very sluggishly and actually shut down on its own. It's almost like it "locked up". After sitting for a couple of minutes I turned the key to try to restart it and the engine would not turn over at all. After waiting another 5 or six minutes I turned the key and she started just as pretty as you please. No smoking, no knocking....only a smooth running engine. The oil level is full; the radiator is full. I am completely baffled as to what happened to the engine. Can someone shed a little light on this?

 

[careyo63]

Bad Fuel something in the intake would be a good reason almost clogged it up or choked it. If you haven't done it in awhile I think it's time to replace the filters. Fuel and Air. At least you can rule that out if it happens again. Drain and replace the fuel while your at it.

 

[Soundguy]

Hmm. The no turnover after stall I disconcerting.

Check bat with a specific gravity or load tester, not a vom. Check connections. If bat n cables fine.. I'd be watching for heat sieze signs...

 

[sirgknight]

Thank you for the feedback. I replaced my filters for the winter so I'm fairly certain that they are in good shape and last summer I removed my fuel tank, drained and cleaned it thoroughly so the fuel should be OK also. My battery did show weakness from sitting up over the winter, but it cranked the tractor fairly easily. Probably need to get it checked. As far as I know the tractor has never run hot. I have a set of gauges and I also still have the little idiot light hooked up. I will say this....my gauge has always given a temp readout that I would consider a little on the high side....around 210 to 220 degrees. What other signs should I look for?

 

[prs]

A running diesel with mechanical fuel pump does not stall or suffer if the battery is disconnected or weak. Your initial report is consistent with air in fuel line or water in fuel. But the failure to restart is a puzzler. If the starter got into a big strain trying to turn the engine you may have heard a brief electrical squeal as the amps shot up or some other sign of the strain. If so, lots of water fluid blocked combustion chamber, but why would it clear with time unless engine was hot enough to steam if off? So maybe two problems. Air in fuel purged, but also a bad battery terminal connection or loose main ground at frame causing intermittent start.

prs

 

[winston1]

I doubt the problem but does your set of gauges include an oil pressure gauge? Showing good oil pressure?

 

[sirgknight]

I doubt the problem but does your set of gauges include an oil pressure gauge? Showing good oil pressure?

Yes. My gauges show temp, pressure and voltage....all working properly.

 

[normde2001]

I'm with Soundguy on heat seizure, although it appears you have been running hot for several years, 210-220 is entirely too hot. Not likely that you had 2 problems, air/fuel and electrical that cleared up after sitting a few minutes.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm with Soundguy on heat seizure, although it appears you have been running hot for several years, 210-220 is entirely too hot. Not likely that you had 2 problems, air/fuel and electrical that cleared up after sitting a few minutes.

Agreed, I'm not seeing a loss of fuel, and not a bad bat either, if it started after cooling. Hate to say it but a gradual stall followed by a siezed engine, that auto corrected when cool points to bad heat issues, possibly lower end lube issues even..

 

[careyo63]

I'm thinking Heat also. The gauge is reading 210-220 and if it's a factory Temp sender the light should be coming on at 220. Time to get a Thermometer out and start checking the temp in the overflow Esp. when you are seeing 210 on the gauge. The gauge could wrong and not even 200. And that's why the lights not coming on. But IMHO. My guess your going to see over 220 with a Thermometer. And if it was mine and it got that hot on the gauge I"d would Rev. it up and would be removing the Rad. cap and checking it. I bet it's over 220... No light AKA Dummy Light. not very accurate.