shovelrider
Silver Member
My buddies dad used it this yr. to do their garden. It needs 6 tines and some work, thinks it's either a Yanmar ys/rs 1200. Anyone know for sure? I can get it for $100, is it worth it ? thanx Jim
4' Tiller
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careyo63
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Should work! Looks like it either doesn't have the rear wheels or is not an option for that model. 100.00 bucks the Dr. Shaft worth half that.
California
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$100? When anything else you will see is $500 and up, why not?
I wouldn't use that to earn a living but for typical homeowner use I would just change the 90 wt gear oil (There's always water in there) and put it in service. See if it really needs those missing tines, or does sufficient work without them, before spending more money on it.
These things are near bulletproof. There is one part you need to check, and replace if needed: at the dumb end of the tine shaft, there's a ball bearing that will chew up the housing if it has rusted in place. It's simple to check, and cheap to replace with a standard sealed bearing.
You will likely conclude it is worth buying a set of tines and restoring it. Aside from that bearing and worn tines it should run for years with little attention.
You only need wheels if your tractor is underpowered, say under 15 hp, relative to the tiller. I needed them to use my tiller intended for 20 hp on my 15 hp (pto) tractor because it would dig too deep and bog down, didn't need the wheels for the 20 hp tractor.
That was about the last model that had wheels, they aren't needed when the tiller is matched to the tractor's hp.
I wouldn't use that to earn a living but for typical homeowner use I would just change the 90 wt gear oil (There's always water in there) and put it in service. See if it really needs those missing tines, or does sufficient work without them, before spending more money on it.
These things are near bulletproof. There is one part you need to check, and replace if needed: at the dumb end of the tine shaft, there's a ball bearing that will chew up the housing if it has rusted in place. It's simple to check, and cheap to replace with a standard sealed bearing.
You will likely conclude it is worth buying a set of tines and restoring it. Aside from that bearing and worn tines it should run for years with little attention.
You only need wheels if your tractor is underpowered, say under 15 hp, relative to the tiller. I needed them to use my tiller intended for 20 hp on my 15 hp (pto) tractor because it would dig too deep and bog down, didn't need the wheels for the 20 hp tractor.
That was about the last model that had wheels, they aren't needed when the tiller is matched to the tractor's hp.
OP
shovelrider
Silver Member
was thinking about using it behind my ym1700. In the garden, or to use in making a few passes for a deer plot. If tractor is too small, i have tha shibaura P21F 25hp 4x4. I would just leave it on tractor, and when needed it'll be hooked up ready to go. Rodger that, on checking bearings and change fluid 90wt. and found tines for around $7-$9 each. Thanx for advice going to pick it up tomorrow afternoon. Jim
careyo63
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clemsonfor
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I'd pay $100 for it easy esp if it remotely works?
boggen
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start spraying some BP blaster on stuff, over next couple days. to loosen it all up. for when you do wrap something up. or something happens. your not out there upside down with a cutting torch or grinder trying to get the nuts/bolts out.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
boggen
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start spraying some BP blaster on stuff, over next couple days. to loosen it all up. for when you do wrap something up. or something happens. your not out there upside down with a cutting torch or grinder trying to get the nuts/bolts out.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
you might find it a pain to keep at a given depth, without any sort of sleds or gauge wheels for it. and be at the 3pt hitch lever constantly raising/lowering trying to maintain a certain depth and correct speed/MPH.
double check the "tines" rotate in correct direction (counter clockwise vs clockwise) it might be something. and result tiller not working like it should.
the PTO shaft is as old as the unit it looks like, and quick look there is no "shear bolt" let alone a slip clutch. you may need to get a new PTO shaft for tiller. if there is a belt on the side that can serve as a saftey device. if it is chain then look at PTO shaft with a shear bolt.
double check you do not need a new PTO shaft. different tractors can result in longer and/or shorter PTO shaft. a couple inches is a couple inches when dropped down into dirt and PTO shaft coming apart on you in a dangerous way.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
you might find it a pain to keep at a given depth, without any sort of sleds or gauge wheels for it. and be at the 3pt hitch lever constantly raising/lowering trying to maintain a certain depth and correct speed/MPH.
double check the "tines" rotate in correct direction (counter clockwise vs clockwise) it might be something. and result tiller not working like it should.
the PTO shaft is as old as the unit it looks like, and quick look there is no "shear bolt" let alone a slip clutch. you may need to get a new PTO shaft for tiller. if there is a belt on the side that can serve as a saftey device. if it is chain then look at PTO shaft with a shear bolt.
double check you do not need a new PTO shaft. different tractors can result in longer and/or shorter PTO shaft. a couple inches is a couple inches when dropped down into dirt and PTO shaft coming apart on you in a dangerous way.
California
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But check that offside bearing first! In case it has been sitting there and rusted itself solid.
Also it would be simpler to drain the water off the bottom of the gearcase if it hasn't been agitiated, blended, by running the thing. I still don't have all the water out of mine after at least two fluid changes. I wonder if it recurs due to condensation.
For some reason the original design on these doesn't have any sort of clutch or shear anywhere. Hang it and it just stalls the tractor without hurting anything. It's all beefy gears in that side case, no belt or chain.
Depth - just set the 3-point stop for depth. There never were sled runners on these, and they are often run without the optional wheels.
Somebody modified that to move the 3-point pins farther forward. That distance might be just right to run the original driveshaft but add a slip clutch onto the tractor's pto.
Also it would be simpler to drain the water off the bottom of the gearcase if it hasn't been agitiated, blended, by running the thing. I still don't have all the water out of mine after at least two fluid changes. I wonder if it recurs due to condensation.
For some reason the original design on these doesn't have any sort of clutch or shear anywhere. Hang it and it just stalls the tractor without hurting anything. It's all beefy gears in that side case, no belt or chain.
Depth - just set the 3-point stop for depth. There never were sled runners on these, and they are often run without the optional wheels.
Somebody modified that to move the 3-point pins farther forward. That distance might be just right to run the original driveshaft but add a slip clutch onto the tractor's pto.
careyo63
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I have a shortened Dr. Shaft for it should you need one. I don't have much into it and it hasn't been used for anything for Yrs.. so I'll let it go cheap. Catch the bottom bearing that seems to be a common problem. I was lucky and opened mine up to find this............
