Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket

   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #11  
Are the 2 studs in your picture still in there?
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #12  
Barry I just noticed that too. It needs to come straight up over those 2 studs. I think he knows that. From what it sounds like, it is pretty much sealed to the block and won't budge at all. But I could be wrong.
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Jtullis13 said:
Barry I just noticed that too. It needs to come straight up over those 2 studs. I think he knows that. From what it sounds like, it is pretty much sealed to the block and won't budge at all. But I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

That's correct. There's enough of a space between the studs that I can tell if I'm budging it at all and so far I haven't. I've only got about a foot of space between the head and the arm for the front end loader that's making it extra fun. Thanks for the tips. And I thought I did good getting that hammer- it was the biggest Lowes had and I bet I could have saved $$ at Harbor Freight- that one was $25 at Lowes.
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #14  
OK,the first time I pulled the head off my JD1050 (basically the same engine) I had a couple of studs on that side that were rusted to the head.Could not get the head to budge.Tried to double nut the studs and stripped the threads. After that I put a pipe wrench on the studs and they just would not break free.Ended up driving screwdrivers in between the head and block,then chisels,then tuning fork and pieces of wood.Had to beat them in with a BIG hammer and fight it till it was about half way up the studs.I'm lucky that I didn't break the head or do more damage to the block.
I would try to get some oil down around those studs and wait a couple of days and then try to turn(double nut) the studs or pry up on the head on the head. Hope you have better luck than I had ! After I got the head off,the studs unscrewed out of the block no problem,they were just rusted to the head on that side. If you can get the studs out,you're home free.
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #15  
OUCH!! yep I think you can get a 5# one at HF for like $10 with the 20% coupon. Just looked the 4# one is $12 and then you get 20% off of that ( so just under $10). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!:thumbdown:
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #16  
Barry 1 said:
OK,the first time I pulled the head off my JD1050 (basically the same engine) I had a couple of studs on that side that were rusted to the head.Could not get the head to budge.Tried to double nut the studs and stripped the threads. After that I put a pipe wrench on the studs and they just would not break free.Ended up driving screwdrivers in between the head and block,then chisels,then tuning fork and pieces of wood.Had to beat them in with a BIG hammer and fight it till it was about half way up the studs.I'm lucky that I didn't break the head or do more damage to the block.
I would try to get some oil down around those studs and wait a couple of days and then try to turn(double nut) the studs or pry up on the head on the head. Hope you have better luck than I had ! After I got the head off,the studs unscrewed out of the block no problem,they were just rusted to the head on that side. If you can get the studs out,you're home free.
Click to expand...

This is good advice here! I would use transmission fluid as your oil it is about as good as any penetrating oil esp mixed with acetone.
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #17  
Re: the suggestion from Clemsonfor to use transmission fluid and acetone as a rust penetrant, a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone is about as good a penetrant you could ever wish for. Just make sure you store the excess in a metal container.
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Thanks for all the help and suggestions y'all. Letting the penetrating oil soak and spraying it beside the posts over a couple days and getting a bigger dead blow did the trick. I also hammered on a crowbar that I had on the lifting edge of the head. That all went well. I've got her back together and cranked this evening. I think things went well. My only concern is my valve adjustment-- first time I've done that. Here's a video of it running to give your thoughts on how it sounds:

Yanmar YM3110D Running - YouTube

I took lots of photos and videos of the process and will be compiling it into a how to video. I'll post that soon once I get the edits finished.

Thanks!
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #19  
Sounds ok to me, thanks for the video. Can you elaborate on your valve adjustment concern?
 
   / Separating the head from the block on a YM3110d to replace a head gasket #20  
Yep that sounds good. Do a valve check/adjust after running it for 10 hours or so.
 
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