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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    22
    Location
    Virginia

    Default 1510 rear axle seals (advice removing axle or hub)

    I need to replace both rear seals in my 1510, I have the parts and the diagram in hand. Is there a secret to getting the axle out?? When I tug on it it catches on a gear or something. If someone could send me a quick not it would be great, is there a chance the entire side panel has to be removed from the trans???

  2. #2
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    3,493

    Default Re: 1510 rear axle seals (advice removing axle or hub)

    No secret to it, just pull out the pto assembly and you will see how to unhook the axle.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    643
    Location
    Near Hagerstown, MD
    Tractor
    Yanmar models: YM1110D, YM1301D

    Default Re: 1510 rear axle seals (advice removing axle or hub)

    From the parts diagram, it appears that there is a snap ring just behind that seal. It apparently holds a bearing in the axle housing. Behind the bearing is a spacer, and then two more snap rings around the axle shaft. It appears that you could pull the entire assembly out if you can remove the snap ring behind the seal. If not, then you must have to remove the two snap rings from the axle shaft inside of the tranny. As stated above, the best way is to remove the rear pto housing assembly.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    3
    Location
    South Carolina
    Tractor
    Yanmar YM1700

    Default Re: 1510 rear axle seals (advice removing axle or hub)

    I went through the same thing a while back with the left axle bearing seal (leaking) on my 1700. I suspect the process will be similar for you with the 1510.

    My first obstacle was getting the wheel hub off the shaft. After trying the blue wrench and three-jawed puller without success, I had to pull the entire left axle housing assembly (some call it the trumpet.) This requires the PTO assembly to be removed - just take off the smaller bolts and 2 nuts - not the 4 big ones. After removing the left drive gear bolt (the axle bolt inside the rear end - let the drive gear stay in the rear end), the entire axle assembly and housing slid out easily. I then pulled the inner bearing (they were both common 6209 bearings) I was then able to drive the shaft and outer bearing etc. out the wheel end of the housing. Then I cut (oxy/acet. torch) the outer race and ball cage off of the outer bearing and slid everything (except the inner race and seal ring (this is a replaceable steel ring on the axle journal that wears instead of the axle itself - it has a teflon type inner liner to prevent seepage) off the differential end of the shaft.

    I was then able to place the bare axle with the stuck wheel hub down into a 2' length of 4" pipe and drive it out with a piece of 1 1/2" brass hex stock and a 6lb. sledge hammer. I was afraid I might break the hub but it's pretty tough. I filed and cleaned the wheel hub splines up in case I ever have to repeat this process. A little never-sieze is also a good idea at this point. By the way, the snap rings stay on the axle through the whole process - they fit on the shaft toward the inside of both bearings and just serve as a stop for the bearings when they are installed.

    I also pulled the hydraulic lift assembly to facilitate re-installing the PTO unit (it's kind of tricky lining up the PTO drive shaft without taking the top off for a better view.)

    I got both bearings and the Garlock seal locally but I had to order the axle seal ring. I made all the gaskets from 1/32" sheet stock. I've had good success ordering parts from Aaron Murray at Hoye Tractor & Equipment (www.HoyeTractor.com.) Good Luck!

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