betty2017
Member
The biggest one is uaually the most expensive one. :laughing:
New battery
- Thread starter coolbrze
- Start date
Thanks everyone. Now I'm a little worried, I pulled the battery & noticed that it's only 8 months old (according to the punched stickers on it). So why did it run down. I'm charging it now & going to put it back in, but part of me thinks I should just buy a new one & install it. If it runs down, there's an issue w/ the tractors electrics somewhere but if not, at least I've got a new battery in it!
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 23,084
- Tractor
- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
I was 100% Interstate... my Dad carried them and put a lot out in the field... going back 40 years... we had a great local guy that worked his butt off... they split his territory and he said the **** with it... lost a lot of accounts.
My last two experiences have been less than satisfactory and since I bought at the jobber price there is NO Warranty!!!
Too bad because I had 71 core credits with them... oh well... few things remain unchanged.
The last few years I have bought from a independent... his prices are good and no complaints... he also supports the old car hobby...
You need to check with a voltmeter to see if charging.
Copy that, I've got an ohm or volt meter (not sure which one) but am not good w/ electronics. How do I test & where to I put the contact points? What am I looking for when testing?
Just turn your meter to dc voltage, touch the red lead to the positive battery terminal, black lead to the negative battery terminal. Tractor not running you should read at least 12.6 volts. If not, possible bad battery unless not charging and run down.
Crank the tractor, check the same way, should be showing 13+ volts, depending on speed. If not you either have a bad dynamo, regulator, etc. Check first and if not charging we can pursue causes.
Crank the tractor, check the same way, should be showing 13+ volts, depending on speed. If not you either have a bad dynamo, regulator, etc. Check first and if not charging we can pursue causes.
WM75Guy
Elite Member
I had to replace the battery in both of my New Hollands about the same time. NH wanted about $125, warranty is 20 months, and it is 100 miles roundtrip to the dealer. I went with the AC Delco 6 year warranty batteries from my local GMC dealer that does all my truck service for $150. The parts manager matched it right up. Never have an issue getting something exchanged under warranty.
clemsonfor
Super Member
And you could of gone to walmart and got basically the same quality battery for $95. Three year free replacement and 7 year prorate.
Seriously almost all batterieries of similar warrenty are the same. Lead is the key, header a battery the better. There only like 3 battery manufactures that make batteries here. Johnson controls makes a ton of the batteries out there. Made in medicine mostly now.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Batteries just go bad too. I had a battery, a panosonic go bad in a toyota. That's the original equipment brand for them. Just went out, it would crank sometimes and then wouldn't for some reason. Just got worse n worse. I bought a new one cause I didn't want to drive 75 Miles to the dealer to replace it.
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 23,084
- Tractor
- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
Back when Mom bought her one and only new car, Toyota, it was AC Delco... best car battery life I've come across... but it was the original Green Eye battery that seems to have gone away.