yanmar tiller techniques

[BrettW]

Guys,
I finally got my Yanmar into action using my tiller. Just a few questions,
1. It seemed that I needed to get the tiller and tractor moving forward and then lower the tiller. Is it also better to raise the tiller before stopping or pushing in the clutch?
2. If I add a slip clutch and cut the shaft down will that change the alignment of the shaft/ tiller. I remember that the tiller shaft only connects in one groove, I recall that it was important to the operation of the tiller.

thanks, brett w

 

[gws]

Here is how I use my tiller.
place the tiller where you want to start tilling. Put the tiller down just above the soil. Put the tractor in neutral, depress the break. Push in clutch and turn on the PTO. Release the clutch and let the tiller come up to speed. Slowly lower the tiller to start breaking the soil. take the tiller down as far as needed into the soil. Now put the tractor in gear and slowly move forward.

 

[Inspector507]

BrettW,
On my tiller the shaft is kinda short to begin with and the angle is pretty severe (in my mind). I would not want to add a slip clutch myself, which would make the angle even more severe.

 

[Villengineer]

I have to agree with Inspector. I have to remove the over-run clutch to get a pto shaft in there and I cut mine way down. I don't think there is any chance of getting a slip-clutch in there. I also have to limit the 3-pnt lift when running the pto b/c the angle gets too steep and binds up the u-joints. Granted, I'm not using my Yanmar 1303 tiller on a Yanmar tractor though.

 

[blackd]

Brett, ditto with QWS. Were you able to use thw wheels? Just used mine to break ground for a neighbor's shed. Needed to remove high ground to grade. Removed @ 15-18 inch grade for a 12X20 foot Amish shed.

 

[BrettW]

Don,
Didn't use the wheels yet as I was just playing in my new front yard. I think I will use them when I get serious as I was constantly raising and lowering the tiller, reacting to the sound of it going too deep and bogging down the tractor.
I'm going to get a box, finish mower and 4' rotary cutter very soon. Looks like I'll be changing implements more often than I thought. Thanks again,
I'll post some pics of the new house! It sure looks good to me. We even got a letter from a realtor in SC asking if we wanted to sell it!
brett w

 

[sirgknight]

Like you I'm new at this tiller game, but after becoming accustomed to my tiller's operation (A Yanmar 1200) it seemed to have a lot less stress on it to let the tiller down to the ground, engage the clutch and slowly allow the tiller to begin it's work. Let the tiller dig itself down as deep as you want to till and then let the tractor begin pulling the tiller. Your forward speed would greatly depend on two things: what type soil your tilling and what's in the soil that you are tilling (such as roots, rocks, etc.) Where I live it is very sandy and tilling comes quite easily. But if you live in an area with a lot of clay or other hard kinds of soil you'll need to take it fairly slow, maybe even VERY slow. I noticed that there seems to be a lot less torque and vibration to the tiller, in general, to stop the tiller and then raise it from the ground - then get reestablished on another line and reinsert the tiller into the ground. I think by doing this you accomplish two things - you are getting maximum performance from the tiller with the least amount of stress; and you are not allowing the tiller to over-till. I guess I'm basically transferring my learned techniques from a hand-held tiller to the real mccoy. It may take a few extra minutes to perform the task, but you will more than likely have very satisfactory results - the first time.

 

[sirgknight]

P.S. I agree with the Inspector. An ORC would possibly produce too severe an angle for the joints. I use an ORC for my mower and it's great for that, but I really don't need it for the tiller. Just take it easy and let the tiller do it's thing.

 

[OhioGuy]

My 1301 appears to have no provision for a shear bolt. The guy I bought it from thought it might be on the tiller axle itself?

I just recently broke the PTO shaft due to the angle of the driveshaft. Because I needed such a short toplink, I was temporarily using a turnbuckle, bad idea.

It straightened the eye and caused the PTO to bind.

Any manuals available for any of these.

Curt