I just bought a 1602. Things I learned from this group were a big help in my decision. Thanks to all. I've read Yanmar US's list of issues with our imports and I actually buy into some of them. I'll probably add a ROPS when they become available later this year, and I do have PTO guards and an overrunning PTO clutch. I'd like to also retrofit a neutral start switch and a push-forward throttle. Can anyone offer any guidance for this, especially the throttle? It looks like I can use an automotive brake light switch for the clutch. My wiring harness already has the connections for the switch in it.
1602 Upgrades
- Thread starter FLinTexas
- Start date
mark777
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2004
- Messages
- 1,288
- Location
- S.E Texas
- Tractor
- Ym1300d-1401D-1601D , 1610D & Massey Ferguson 1020
FLinTexas,
First welcome to TBN. If a stock application of the clutch switch won't work then I would consider a marine grade momentary switch that has the button part encapsulated in rubber. This is a simple H.D. starter switch with a high amp rating.
Changing the direction of the throttle would not be too difficult. I would think that just relocating the metering rod to the pump on the hand lever would change the direction of the throw. Maybe fabricating the throttle plate with an optional hole on the bottom side. This would change the direction and function to operate in the opposite direction.
Good luck,
Mark
First welcome to TBN. If a stock application of the clutch switch won't work then I would consider a marine grade momentary switch that has the button part encapsulated in rubber. This is a simple H.D. starter switch with a high amp rating.
Changing the direction of the throttle would not be too difficult. I would think that just relocating the metering rod to the pump on the hand lever would change the direction of the throw. Maybe fabricating the throttle plate with an optional hole on the bottom side. This would change the direction and function to operate in the opposite direction.
Good luck,
Mark
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
I understand the ROPS, and the clutch switch (My 1602D has one from the factory) but why change the throttle? It's perfectly intuitive to me the way it its............ similar to an airplane, pull out for more throttle, push in for less.........
Here's the ROPS on mine, I built it.......
Here's the ROPS on mine, I built it.......
Attachments
I like it.
I like the toolbox, too.
The reasoning behind the push throttle (I believe) is that its easier and more instinctive to pull it back in an emergency.
If you were to pop the clutch with your hand on the throttle, the inertia would cause you to involuntarily open the throttle. A push-style throttle would close in this circumstance, a more benign scenario.
BTW, could you post a picture of the clutch switch and bracketry? I found that Fredricks has the stock switches, but I don't know how it mounts.
Thanks,
Leon
I like the toolbox, too.
The reasoning behind the push throttle (I believe) is that its easier and more instinctive to pull it back in an emergency.
If you were to pop the clutch with your hand on the throttle, the inertia would cause you to involuntarily open the throttle. A push-style throttle would close in this circumstance, a more benign scenario.
BTW, could you post a picture of the clutch switch and bracketry? I found that Fredricks has the stock switches, but I don't know how it mounts.
Thanks,
Leon
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
It mounts under the left foot rest, in a round bracket welded to the bottom of the footrest, and acts on the clutch linkage. I probably won't be back out to where my tractor is located till the weekend, glad to do it then for you, tho it will be a lousy cell phone pic, it should show what you need tho.
The toolbox was just resting there, it's now mounted on a bracket between the uprights of the ROPS, behind the seat. Really comes in handy as a place to keep the odd hitch pin or crescent wrench. You can see the bottom edge of it in this photot, along with the bracket it's bolted to....
The toolbox was just resting there, it's now mounted on a bracket between the uprights of the ROPS, behind the seat. Really comes in handy as a place to keep the odd hitch pin or crescent wrench. You can see the bottom edge of it in this photot, along with the bracket it's bolted to....
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I've got a new clutch switch coming from Hoye tractor.
I found the mounting bracket under the floorboard.
I noticed in the picture that your sway braces cross over to form an "X". That looks more stable than the way the dealer installed mine on the brush cutter. I'll have to see if mine can be done that way.
The guys at Hoye tractor were pretty negative about installing a fuel cutoff. I had envisioned a simple solenoid valve to shut the fuel off when the key was off. They seemed to think it was much more elaborate than that, and therefore very expensive. Is there something about diesels that makes fuel shutoff complex?
regards,
Leon
I found the mounting bracket under the floorboard.
I noticed in the picture that your sway braces cross over to form an "X". That looks more stable than the way the dealer installed mine on the brush cutter. I'll have to see if mine can be done that way.
The guys at Hoye tractor were pretty negative about installing a fuel cutoff. I had envisioned a simple solenoid valve to shut the fuel off when the key was off. They seemed to think it was much more elaborate than that, and therefore very expensive. Is there something about diesels that makes fuel shutoff complex?
regards,
Leon
Mickey_Fx
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The guys at Hoye tractor were pretty negative about installing a fuel cutoff. I had envisioned a simple solenoid valve to shut the fuel off when the key was off. They seemed to think it was much more elaborate than that, and therefore very expensive. Is there something about diesels that makes fuel shutoff complex?)</font>
Don't know how complex or simple this can be but on all the diesels I've owned the fuel shutoff was via a lever on the injection pump. My F series tractor has a motor that actuates the lever on the pump. Would think if it could have been done simplier, then the factory would have done so.
Don't know how complex or simple this can be but on all the diesels I've owned the fuel shutoff was via a lever on the injection pump. My F series tractor has a motor that actuates the lever on the pump. Would think if it could have been done simplier, then the factory would have done so.
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( I've got a new clutch switch coming from Hoye tractor.
I found the mounting bracket under the floorboard.
I noticed in the picture that your sway braces cross over to form an "X". That looks more stable than the way the dealer installed mine on the brush cutter. I'll have to see if mine can be done that way.
)</font>
That's the only way I could envision using them (crossed), there are no outboard places to attach the clips that are in the same plane as the draw pins. This doesn't really look like a 3 point set up to me, more like something someone cobbled together, and I've just been trying to work with what I have..........but it seems to do fine now.
You have the manual fuel shutoff, right? I could see a simple solenoid in place of the lever, operating the same control, but why? Are you planning to tie it to the seat switch to stop the engine in an "emergency dismount" or something?
I found the mounting bracket under the floorboard.
I noticed in the picture that your sway braces cross over to form an "X". That looks more stable than the way the dealer installed mine on the brush cutter. I'll have to see if mine can be done that way.
)</font>
That's the only way I could envision using them (crossed), there are no outboard places to attach the clips that are in the same plane as the draw pins. This doesn't really look like a 3 point set up to me, more like something someone cobbled together, and I've just been trying to work with what I have..........but it seems to do fine now.
You have the manual fuel shutoff, right? I could see a simple solenoid in place of the lever, operating the same control, but why? Are you planning to tie it to the seat switch to stop the engine in an "emergency dismount" or something?
Cord
Veteran Member
Cutting the fuel off like you envision would be akin to running the engine out of fuel. You are still starving the pump so it'll need to be reprimed. My experience with mechanical engines with a electric shut off has them using a solenoid to pull a lever to cut off the fuel. If you connected the lever to a cable instead of the solenoid you'd have the traditional kill lever. The problem is that Yanmar doesn't provide us with this kill lever. Instead the throttle is pulled back until the engine is starved for fuel and it dies. I don't see how a electric kill could be added to these engines.
Originally, I too was wanting to reverse my throttle. Repeatedly I will pull the throttle wanting to slow the engine down when in fact I discover the opposite happening. To fix this, I was hoping to move the throttle rod to a point above the lever pivot, but for some reason my theory was not going to work. I can't recall why, but it wasn't going to work. It might have to do with the idle detent. Plan 'B' could use an American throttle assembly. I just don't know how feasible the swap would be.
Originally, I too was wanting to reverse my throttle. Repeatedly I will pull the throttle wanting to slow the engine down when in fact I discover the opposite happening. To fix this, I was hoping to move the throttle rod to a point above the lever pivot, but for some reason my theory was not going to work. I can't recall why, but it wasn't going to work. It might have to do with the idle detent. Plan 'B' could use an American throttle assembly. I just don't know how feasible the swap would be.
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
I'm still not sure of the reason behind this idea, if it's just to shut the fule off with the key, like killing a car engine, it seems unecessary. If it's a safety of some sort, maybe...........