Front Axle fluid and Seals

[bobjr1]

Have a question on the type of fluid used in the front axle and the capacity. Also, does anyone know where I can get a seal kit for the right front hub?
TIA

[mark777]

Welcome Bobjr1. Lots of people here can help you out.

Maybe your general location and the type of tractor you own would help us out a little bit? ... [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[bobjr1]

Sorry about not giving tractor model duh.
Yanmar 1301d Here in RHode Island

[mark777]

Nice tractor. I have a 1300D and used every bit of a gallon of 80/90 wt during the FWD disassembly. The seals (including the large knuckle seal) I purchased from Hoye Tractor.

I am not sure who is the closest reputable dealer in your area, but I'm sure someone will chime in and help you out.

Mark

[FL_Jerry]

How hard was it to replace the knuckle seals?

[bobjr1]

Thanks Mark, I have a manual ordered hope to recieve it soon.
Is the 1300 a compatible model to the 1301d? Do you know what the differences are? I paid a guy $ 3500 for the tractor and loader and it also came with a 48" woods box scraper and an improvised 3 pt cement weight. Also, Do you know where I can get front rims? Mine are dented and rusted but functional. TIA [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[mark777]

It takes me about 45 minutes per side.

I clean, measure and inspect everything...sometimes It can take me all day (both sides) when replaced with all new bearings, kingpin, spacers and seals. But I would consider that to be an overhaul, less differential.

Aaron at Hoye Tractor has a very detailed exploded parts diagram (at the top of this page) of the 1401D (and several others) which is close by comparison for Bobjr1's 1301D, and can be very helpful.

To replace seals only: Jack frontend off the ground, drain FWD lubricant, remove 4 bolts at bottom, and 1 nut and washer at top of the knuckle. If it doesn't fall out on it's own, then a few taps with a soft hammer will drop the entire kingpin assembly from the knuckle housing.... and remove the seal from knuckle lip....and replace.

Clean, inspect and careful remove and install about 45-60 minutes per side. Fast and dirty 30 tops. I do not recommend the Fast and Dirty method [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img].

[mark777]

&lt;/font&gt;<font color="blueclass=small">(
Is the 1300 a compatible model to the 1301d? Do you know what the differences are? I paid a guy $ 3500 for the tractor and loader and it also came with a 48" woods box scraper and an improvised 3 pt cement weight. Also, Do you know where I can get front rims? Mine are dented and rusted but functional. TIA [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] )&lt;/font&gt;

Bob,

Here are the differences that I know of:

1300D, 2 cylinder 16 engine HP, 81"L, 38"W, 65"H

1301D, 3 cylinder 16 engine HP, 85"L, 38"W, 68"H. &amp; 1191#

So, yours is longer and taller and with the 3 cyl. runs much smoother. I believe yours also has a water pump and mine is thermal syphon cooling. Yours is a little better and later model tractor ('81-'83) than mine ('75-'80).

The price you paid for your tractor sounds reasonable with all your implements if they're in good working condition and the tractor has not too many hours. You may want to start another thread about a decent dealer, rims and other help, to get the ball rolling. I.E. "1301 Need Help" because I KNOW there are a few that own that particular model.

Mark

BTW: I think any three cylinder diesel tractor with a FEL that runs good is worth $3500....any model.

[mark777]

WOW! I have no idea why the post appeared in red [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img].

[bobjr1]

Thanks Mark

You've been a real help to a newbie. I am very happy with the price I paid. I will take your advice and start a new thread on asking for help.