yanmar 169d won't crank over, won't start...

[arthr31]

hi there,

my 169d no longer starts. I had this problem off and on for awhile, was managing to get it started, but my tricks and fixes no longer work. Here's what I've noticed and done...

Wouldn't start, checked the clutch free pedal play and ignition safety switch clearance, seemed OK. Fixed loose wiring between starter safety switch and wiring bundle, then started (about a month ago).

Next time went to start, a week or so ago, turn key over to start, no cranking... Checked all fuses, wire connections, etc. All seemed OK. Checked battery, was very low. Charged battery, got good cranking and started right up.

Last night, went to start, no cranking again.. Checked battery again, was low. Connected charger, set to "starting mode" to try and start, but won't crank over. So, I let the battery charge, but when I turn the key to "start" the starter won't crank over...

Why would the battery be down to almost 0 charge in a period of 5 days without use? Bad battery maybe, but why wouldn't it start with a charger connected set to "start"?

Where to go from here? Is there a way to by-pass the ignition safety switch? How about the starter switch itself?

I can get a voltmeter to test with, but which component should I start testing from? Is it worth trying a known good battery?

Thanks for any and all input/ideas!!

 

[mark777]

It sounds suspiciously like a ground problem. The battery may be questionable but corroded grounds on the battery, frame and engine act the way your starting problems are explained. And it happens often as its one of those items overlooked during routine maintenance.

Mark

 

[Gizmo36]

charge The battery then take a battery cable and go for the battery to the starter that will by pass ever thing.if it turns over . Jump a wire cross the ignition switch..to check it out or use a voltmeter..

 

[Ductape]

I have seen batterys so bad a vehicle won't start on a charger. I'll relay a similar problem i had though...... hopefully its as simple as my problem was.

Turned key on, dash lit up but not even a hint of a crank. Started chasing wiring...... found the plugs (the tiny inline connectors about 6 inches from the actual switch at the clutch pedal) had come loose on one side. They hadn't completely disconnected, so it was not an obvious "break"in the connection. Pushed the connectors together again, and off i went. Happened again about a week later, this time i could see the connector came apart completely. Aparently, the wiring was getting pushed on by my left heel. I believe my PTO lever has the same type of safety switch.... so you will probably want to chase that wiring too.

On mine..... i actually disconnected the two connectors, and connected them together, eliminating the problem all together. HOWEVER, i'm NOT recommending this fix for anyone else, as this will allow your tractor to start without the clutch being depressed.... potentially allowing it to start in gear.

 

[normde2001]

You keep saying things "seemed ok". In the fixing business "seemed ok" ain't good enough. Get yourself a meter, learn to use it and start from scratch.

 

[ProdaddyTX]

I agree with Normde2001. You need to go through a process of elimination and a meter will allow you to do that.
And also alot of today's solid state chargers won't do anything at all when a battery is completely dead....which could explaing not being able to start even with a charger connected.
One other thing to consider. Your battery seems to be discharging, which could indicate a bad battery, or a bad diode in your alternator. If the diode is bad, you'll get the same result with a new battery...it will discharge while the tractor's sitting idle. The test to rule out the diode is to simply take a known good, hot battery, hook up one cable to it (pos or neg either one, doesn't matter), and with the other cable touch it to it's respective battery post and then pull it away a little bit....do you see a spark between the cable and post? This is all done with the ignition key OFF. If you're seeing a spark when you break that contact between the cable and the battery post, then you've got a bad diode in the alternator that's draining your battery.
Be careful working on electrical stuff...understand how it works or get the help of someone who does.... and watch what's touchin what!

 

[arthr31]

Thanks for the replys, guys. You've given me some other good ideas to try. I won't have a voltmeter to test with until tomorrow, if I need to go that far... I'll let you know what happens...

 

[arthr31]

Thanks again, all. I believe I have found the problem. Battery tests OK, terminals are clean and cabling grounded, well connected etc. I believe the problem is with the ignition safety switch - when I bypass that, I can start no problem. I checked over all other wiring, and it is good, and tests OK.

So, another question, are these safety switches serviceable, or do I just replace?

Well, in the process of all this, the battery got charged, terminals cleaned and tightened, fan belt tightened, replaced light bulb, and learned a bit more about this tractor... And, it appears that Fall Maintence time has begun!

Thanks again for the help.

 

[California]

are these safety switches serviceable, or do I just replace?

I cleaned a 20 year old one with spray electronics cleaner. It went back to unreliable in a few months. Then I ordered a genuine Yanmar one. That lasted a very few months before the rubber boot cracked. (I expect it had sat on the shelf many years.) Despite the torn boot it continues to work properly 2 years later.

For this part a fresh Chinese replica from a gray market dealer might give better service life than a NOS authentic one from Yanmar-USA.