Got a new used motor

[garyd]

I got a new used motor for my 2000. I bought it on ebay, it was out of a 240.I finally got it shipped through "discount rate freight " trucking brokers what a NIGHTMARE!!! I do not recommend this people, thats a whole other story. I got the motor swapped into the tractor but the front intake valve is leaking. When I had the motors pan off I pulled the bearing caps off and used plastigauge to check the clearances. They checked near new so I figured alls well. The motor appears to have been stored outside as there was some light surface rust. There all so seems to be a little rust or carbon on the valve that can be seen with a flashlight looking down the intake with valve cover off. Do you guys know if there is a way to clean the seat up with out pulling the head off and replacing the head gasket. I wished I would of caught it last week as I just got a box of parts in from Hoye, actually I wished the valve wasn't leaking! Any thoughts Thanks as always.
Gary<><

 

[DieselPower]

Leaky valve as in the seat leaks exhaust back into the intake? Or a leaky valve seal? If it's the seat it would have to be rather rusty to start leaking to a point that you would notice it and by that time it's probably pitted up prety well.

It's kind of hard to lap a valve while the head's still on the block. The only thing I can think to do is remove the valve spring and chuck a electric drill onto the valve stem. Spray some WD40 or whatever your favorite penetrating oil is into the cylinder with a bent extenssion straw onto the valve. Hopefully the rust will act as a lapping compound and you can pull up on the drill while it's running. Not ideal and all the crud is going to end up in your cylinder but it's about the only thing I can think of. Oh, make sure the piston is at TDC in case the valve falls so it does not fall all the way into the cylinder.

 

[normde2001]

Valve clearances OK? If there is surface rust on the seat, running it may clear it up.

 

[garyd]

Diesel power yeah its leaking through the valve seat. Its bad, I did pull the spring and lowered the valve down onto the top of the piston and then lowered the piston slightly to get the best view I could. looked filthy on top of the piston. Tons diesel, carbon, rust , dirt? I agree the drill is not a good way but I tried it any way, though that if it was only a little surface rust it would knock it down and seat back up. It did not work and I was afraid to do that to much and cause more damage. The head will be coming off to do it right valve job at the machine shop. I was kind of hoping for a turn key job on the motor, oh well. Maybe I can get away with just a head gasket and the valves and seats ground.

Norm I haven't been able to get it to run yet, lack of compression due to the leaking valve seat, I think?

Gary<><

 

[normde2001]

I'm sure it could use a valve job, but it would be a shame not to pop the pistons out and check the ring end gap while you have the head off. I would think it would start and run on 1 cylinder if all else is good, fuel, etc.

 

[garyd]

Norm I haven't been able to get her to fire. The old motor that I spun the rod bearing in did run sort of on 1 cylinder. Lets go over the basics again to be sure I haven't missed the obvious. I have bleed the fuel lines, bleeder screws at the filter then at the injector pump, then at the injectors. the fuel just drips at the injectors though and there isn't really any exhaust to speak of at the exhaust pipe. I don't know? I think the old motor just dripped fuel at the injector and when I pulled the injectors and reatached the fuel lines they sprayed a nice cone. In the manual it talks about dow corning rtv silcone on the head gasket? I have never used rtv on a head gasket before?

Ring end gap How is that measured? I have feeler gauges and a caliper and the spec. is in the book but I am a little unsure as to the procedure.

 

[normde2001]

Norm I haven't been able to get her to fire. The old motor that I spun the rod bearing in did run sort of on 1 cylinder. Lets go over the basics again to be sure I haven't missed the obvious. I have bleed the fuel lines, bleeder screws at the filter then at the injector pump, then at the injectors. the fuel just drips at the injectors though and there isn't really any exhaust to speak of at the exhaust pipe. I don't know? I think the old motor just dripped fuel at the injector and when I pulled the injectors and reatached the fuel lines they sprayed a nice cone. In the manual it talks about dow corning rtv silcone on the head gasket? I have never used rtv on a head gasket before?

Ring end gap How is that measured? I have feeler gauges and a caliper and the spec. is in the book but I am a little unsure as to the procedure.

There's something wrong with your bleeding or your fuel supply. You should be drowning in fuel if you are cranking with an open injector line, (7000+psi) fuel pressure. As I recall your other engine had tha same problem. You need to get a basic auto repair manual. Ring gap is checked by removing a ring and inserting it into the cylinder and checking the end gap with a feeler gauge. I have overhauled several engines, read several service manuals and I never heard of using RTV on a head gasket.

 

[kenmac]

I wouldn't use anything on a head gasket but the gasket itself. If the piston has a flat top, use it to square the ring in the cylinder .

 

[DieselPower]

There's something wrong with your bleeding or your fuel supply. You should be drowning in fuel if you are cranking with an open injector line, (7000+psi) fuel pressure.

Not necessarily. It is high pressure not high volume. There is actually very little fuel pushed to a injector for each injection cycle. Remove the fuel injector supply lines on most any mechanical diesel engine and you will only get a little squirt of fuel at each injection cycle, usually less than a teaspoon.

 

[gemini5362]

I agree with diesel power. Just because you have an open injector line you wont get a lot of fuel. We discussed this in another post. If you have a power washer look at the difference with the nozzles. If you have the nozzle with the biggest opening in it (the black one usually) that has a very low pressure because the power washer might be capable of 2000+ psi but it does not pump a lot of volume. If you have the smallest opening nozzle (usually the red one) that one will take paint off of the wall or strip off pieces of wood. That is because with the limited amount of volume that goes through it the pump can develop high pressure. Injector lines work the same way. It has to have the resistance of a small opening to develop any pressure.