Any known issues with 2010 JD 825i XUV?

[Dadnatron]

We have been tossing around getting a UTV for a while. I壇 have one by now, but they are so damned expensive, just for something to run to the field. But, I think we need something as we are hiring some part time workers for the farm, and I don稚 want to ferry them all over the place so they can work.

I found a 200hr 2010 JD 825i but know nothing about them. I really don稚 know much about UTVs in general, but I need the farm utility and spending $15-20K just seems ridiculous for where we are financially on this farm. There is such a huge number of options, I honestly don稚 have the time to put into learning about every possibility and hope to get a little direction here, hoping to make a reasonably informed purchase.

My needs are purely farm... speed is not a huge issue at all.

1. Carrying bed, prefer hydraulic dump capability if at all possible or option to add it depending on price.
2. Reliability
3. Price
4. Decent tow ability

I have a tractor and pickup for big stuff, so my main concern is moving/working around the farm. Fence work, moving hay to barn, muck, etc.

Personally I don稚 care what color makes it... just that it is a workhorse on the harm. My goal would be to keep a budget of around $5K with a need of about 3 years for that money. If I was able to go 3yrs, I壇 have a different financial structure and could look for something else at that time, if needed.

This 825i é¼*ooks OK to my eye, but I have no experience with any UTVs so really don稚 know what is 組ood/bad/useful/missing?

 

[reb]

I just got a Gator 621i. Found a Gator forum that might have your answer:

John Deere Gator Forums - Powered by vBulletin

These seem to be pretty rugged machines.

 

[DIXIEDOG]

The 825i is a great machine...it's powerful and rides very well for a work class utv. I would say the biggest trouble spot is the clutch, that said if it's a 2010 it's most likely already fixed or it never had a problem. Tell tales are hard shifting at idle


It's surprising you can find a 825i that cheap

 

[oldtimer 66]

I have a 2010 Gator 825I. I have 7400 miles on it and 812 hours. It is licensed and insured. I had the extra 1 yr. plus the factory 2 for a 3 yr. total warranty. Part of the purchase was that I would install all of the accessories. Heater, power dump, turn signals and 4 ways, horn, extra lights windshield washer etc. I have put in 4 injectors not under warranty, now at $ 157 each. Two exhaust pipes, not mufflers, one under warranty and one I installed roughly $ 190. The head lights got contaminated due to front wheels slinging mud. They were replaced under warranty. I have since installed a rubber shield behind the lights. Brakes are still good, tires starting to wear but still usable. I have plugged I think 3 tries over this time frame. Only one needs sealant occasionally because of I think 2 plugs in that tire. The right front strut is now leaking and I need to replace it. Cost to me $150 approx. The yellow seats have started to crack at their heavy compression areas. I switched the seats, driver to passenger and visa versa several years ago. Now the driver's is looking like the passengers. Maintenance items, three fuel filters and 20 oil changes. So I have averaged about 40 hrs. per oil change. One coolant change. I checked the timing belt at 400 and it looked good guides and wear strips. I need to repeat that inspection now. I replaced 2 alternator belts. It does not have spring tension idler. I am afraid to over tighten the belt and damage the alternator. I have not replaced the drive belt. Have not replaced a light. Not one fuse has blown. All of the wheel bearing are good although none of the axles have ever been below sea level. It is an excellent machine for my use. One item to mention on the injectors. They fall out not because there are dirty and need cleaned but because they leak and there is no repair that I know of. Also the leaking shows up when I have trouble starting the Gator is a gradual thing just slightly hesitant at first and the more difficult later on, several or more cranks before starting. Therefor the injectors changes are one at a time. Because of the high OEM price I tried some after market injectors. It would start good and pull hard without missing but the engine would stumble at light throttle. It also started to fill the crankcase with un-burnt fuel. I then checked the ohm readings and the after market ones were 10.6 ohms where as the factory Siemens are 14.6 ohms. Lesson learned. Hopefully these details will help you decide. Later.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Dixiedog. The only real problem I had was the middle carrier bearing rattled and the factory had a fix right away for that. The only clutch issue I remember was caused by trying to shift into gear during high idle right after a cold startup. That is still an issue. When it sits outside in the cold weather I need to wait and sometimes throttle stab it to kick it down into a lower idle before I shift into gear. After warm up that is not a problem.

 

[Sean2202]

We have a 2010 HPX v-twin 600 at my work. It has 1600 hrs on it. We bought it used. It has had an issue with excelerating stumbling. That was a bad intake carb gasket. This one had a hydraulic dump bed installed. It came with a manual one. The 4WD and low range works great. The clutch is hard to engage sometime.

Another option I will add is look up Toro Workman. (Or John Deere pro gator) They are made to work and be abused. There are diesel and gas versions available. They can tow more and haul and dump as much stone, dirt, sand that you can put in it and parts are readily available. Only downside is 4wd ones are rare. 2WD does have a rear locker though.

 

[DIXIEDOG]

Dixiedog. The only real problem I had was the middle carrier bearing rattled and the factory had a fix right away for that. The only clutch issue I remember was caused by trying to shift into gear during high idle right after a cold startup. That is still an issue. When it sits outside in the cold weather I need to wait and sometimes throttle stab it to kick it down into a lower idle before I shift into gear. After warm up that is not a problem.

The ones with the defective clutch would not shift at idle...even if you shut the engine off the shifting was difficult. JD had some sort of complain/replace TSB on them per my dealer. I turned my engine off and still broke my shift lever when I attempted to shift the transmission. They replaced the clutch with an updated design and it's been 100% since

 

[ZFreak]

For future folks looking at this thread, I'll throw my two cents in:

2012 Gator 825 purchased new from the JD dealer (Ag Power... now United Ag and Turf)) here in Tyler, TX
- Replaced injectors around 400 hours. It was having a hard starting issue and occasional misfire that would sometimes correct itself.
- Replaced starter TWICE under warranty (150'ish hours and again around 250 hours) and at almost 800 hours and 3000 miles, I'm about to replace it again. The bushings in it are causing a grinding noise when starting. That's what failed on the other two.
- Replaced one front brake hose that burst under warranty at around 50 hours.
- Replaced two exhaust pipes (not muffler) under warranty and it still is leaking. It uses a donut gasket to make the connection and it is a poor design. It will leak. I gave up trying to fix it.
- Replaced one rear axle CV boot out of warranty..It may have been self-inflicted from driving over something. Not sure there.

Other than that, it's just been regular fluid/filter changes. Last year (10 years old) I had my JD dealer do all of the fluids for me because I just didn't have the time. Front/rear diffs, coolant, brake fluid, etc..

Currently has around 800 hours and 3000 miles on it. I use it primarily to drive around our 20 acres + pull a 16' twin axle trailer around to haul brush to the burn pile, move empty trailers around, etc.

I've never changed the timing belt, alternator belt, tires, or anything else but I plan to do the timing belt this winter. Several YT videos showing how its done and it seems pretty straight forward. I bought the OEM "CHERY" brand parts for it which is the manufacturer of the engine so I didn't pay the JD tax of the same part coming in a yellow and green box. There's a seller on eBay that sells them that way and you can save yourself a lot of money. I also learned that the timing belt is the same as a Mitsibishi Mirage 1997-2002 1.5L engine if you want to further save yourself some money there.