My guess is a bad solenoid. Could also be a wire rubbed through or pinched somewhere between the switch and solenoid. I would remove shields ans right wheel if necessary to visually check entire length of the harness between(should be a yellow wire).You also could unhook the wire at the solenoid and then turn on the pto switch. If tractor stays running and doesn't blow the fuse, replace the solenoid.
2305 not cooperating, need help
- Thread starter wxboy
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davkir
Gold Member
Well I found the solenoid. It looks like the last thing that the wires go to which makes sense. I looked for debris around it but what I saw was some kind of goop around the bottom left side of it. It amost looked like something that used to be a liquid but now it's cold and it is hardened. No idea what that is.
I've never changed or removed a solenoid before, is it very involved or do you pretty much unscrew the existing one and screw a new one in? I'm not very handy but the more I attempt on this tractor that more I'm learning. One thing I'm realizing is that I need to order the service manual(CD).
I've never changed or removed a solenoid before, is it very involved or do you pretty much unscrew the existing one and screw a new one in? I'm not very handy but the more I attempt on this tractor that more I'm learning. One thing I'm realizing is that I need to order the service manual(CD).
davkir
Gold Member
I haven't looked at it, so some of this is speculation. The valve is operated by a coil that turns the electric current into an electromagnetic force that pulls the valve mechanism open. It is usually closed by a spring. Usually they have a non magnetic Stainless Steel tube that separates the coil from the valve core. The coil is usually potted (encapsulated) with an insulating compound. The coil should be removable without disturbing the rest of the valve. One of the drawings I attached previously shows what looks like a hex nut on the very end of the coil which should allow you to remove it.
If the coil overheats, it's possible for the potting compound to melt and run out.
Assuming only the coil is bad, it looks like J.D. only sells the complete valve, which may by pricey! Any chance it's still under warranty?
Good Luck
davkir
Gold Member
There doesn't appear to be any more information. It never hurts to ask the guys in the service dept.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Changed the pto solenoid tonight. The original coil was split open and the insulation had spilled out. It also smelled pretty bad which was the burning smell I was smelling when it would blow the fuse. So I know that I needed a new solenoid but I don't know that the problem is solved. Whatever caused it to go bad in the first place may or may not be fixed. The old solenoid would still work for several minutes at a time until it got too hot and blew the fuse so simply firing up the pto tonight didn't tell me anything. I'll know for sure once I put the deck on and mow for the first time. Crossing my fingers.
h20camper
Bronze Member
Have you checked the output voltage of the alternator? Possibly, it's putting out too high of a voltage burning things up. Put a volt meter set to VDC across your new hopefully 'known' good battery and at high idle (3275) the voltage should be between 14.2 - 14.8vdc. Idle down and the voltage should drop slightly.