Water Heater Help - No Pressure

[buckle97]

Now that you all solved my well pump issue, I've got another one for you.

I have a propane 40 gallon water heater (2 years old) that was located in one part of the house and I have relocated it to another part of the house. I replumbed to it, got it vented, hooked up to propane, etc. and now there is hardly any pressure coming out of it. I have 5 hot water faucets in the house and with the exception of the washing machine which is literally right next to the water heater they all have low pressure. I turn on the cold and it has normal pressure, I turn on the hot only and it feels like a little less than half of the cold pressure. Shouldn't they be approximately the same pressure? The washing machine that feels like it has the most pressure on hot just has a hose bib on the pipe so that could be why it feels stronger.

Any suggestions?

 

[bp fick]

Sheer guess without being there, but if if you relocated an older heater and re-plumbed it and this restrictive flow issue surfaced following your work, then something went amiss. I've installed dozens and dozens of water heaters.

Did you downsize to 1/2" pipe on a feed or exit?
Did you inadvertently get something in the connection? Washer wadded up restricting flow?
Did you have, or do you now have cut off valves above the water heater?

Finally though rare, a big old chunk of calcium may have moved is now blocking the flow inside the tank inlet or outlet. You are forced to work this issue now, I'm afraid.

 

[buckle97]

Did you downsize to 1/2" pipe on a feed or exit?
Did you inadvertently get something in the connection? Washer wadded up restricting flow?
Did you have, or do you now have cut off valves above the water heater?

Finally though rare, a big old chunk of calcium may have moved is now blocking the flow inside the tank inlet or outlet. You are forced to work this issue now, I'm afraid.

It was 1/2" CPVC before and now it is 1/2" PEX. The low pressure did surface after my work, it was fine before the move. I'm pretty sure all my connections are good and clear. I'm afraid you may be right and something is blocking the inlet or outlet from inside the tank.

 

[heehaw]

pex can kink, causing exactly the situation you are describing, or worse. plus with 1/2 inch pex, the way the fitting go into the pipe, do you get as much area of open pipe as you do with cpvc? i haven't used pex yet, so i ask but don't know the answer to that one?
heehaw

 

[bp fick]

It was 1/2" CPVC before and now it is 1/2" PEX. The low pressure did surface after my work, it was fine before the move. I'm pretty sure all my connections are good and clear. I'm afraid you may be right and something is blocking the inlet or outlet from inside the tank.

Well, honestly, and don't intend to appear mean spirited, but 1/2" main through lines in/out of a water heater are inadequate. All main trunks should be 3/4".

Feeding an entire house with 1/2", then supplying off to a couple of sinks, washer, dishwasher, shower, toilet(s) is more than continuous 1/2" can feed. Hot or Cold.

The 3/4" main supply lines though should then reduce to 1/2" when running up to a particular shower, toilet, sink, etc. Then, between the cut off valve for each faucet or toilet, you can supply that singular demand with 3/8"

This keeps the regulation in balance. Does this make sense?

 

[Travelover]

Since most water heaters have one way valves to minimize convective circulation, I'm wondering if it is plumbed backward or if one of these valve / connectors got misinstalled.

 

[/pine]

If the line is not kinked then there is a blockage...

perhaps a piece of mineral build-up that had accumulated in one of the old fittings broke lose etc when you were doing the work...

the size of the pipe may cause a problem with volume but pressure is pressure...you shoule have the same pressure on the hot side as you do on the cold...

[edited]

not trying to be smart aleck...but many new water hearters have plastic plugs that have to be removed befor installation to prevent foriegn matter from getting into the tank...

 

[buckle97]

pex can kink, causing exactly the situation you are describing, or worse.

I hadn't thought about a kink, I'll check for that under the house.

 

[buckle97]

Well, honestly, and don't intend to appear mean spirited, but 1/2" main through lines in/out of a water heater are inadequate. All main trunks should be 3/4".

Feeding an entire house with 1/2", then supplying off to a couple of sinks, washer, dishwasher, shower, toilet(s) is more than continuous 1/2" can feed. Hot or Cold.

The 3/4" main supply lines though should then reduce to 1/2" when running up to a particular shower, toilet, sink, etc. Then, between the cut off valve for each faucet or toilet, you can supply that singular demand with 3/8"

This keeps the regulation in balance. Does this make sense?

I understand the whole 1/2" vs 3/4" argument but first of all this is a rental house (I know, that's really no excuse) and second of all the entire house was plumbed with 1/2 CPVC when I bought it with plenty of pressure on both the hot and cold sides.

 

[buckle97]

the size of the pipe may cause a problem with volume but pressure is pressure...you shoule have the same pressure on the hot side as you do on the cold...

[edited]

not trying to be smart aleck...but many new water hearters have plastic plugs that have to be removed befor installation to prevent foriegn matter from getting into the tank...

That's what I was thinking ... pressure is pressure.

This is not a new water heater, it has been used before. I assume any plugs would have been removed for it to work right in its previous location.