It is OK to use the loader in this way?

[JOHNTHOMAS]

How would I know if I messed up the hydraulics on the loader? Would they not work anymore or are there other symptoms? When I was using it to dump I think a few times I would lift the empty buccket and the when I dumped if I let off the dump before it hit the end of motion it seemed to flop a little bit. Like after I let off the bucket it wouldn't stop right away there was a bit of motion. Did I mess up a seal in there or something or is that normal?

If yours is messed up by flopping, mine are to. Don't think they are messed up.

 

[fish6942]

When back dragging it is safer for the equipment and generally a better technique to put the lift cylinders in float position (joystick full up, past the detent). I usually never curl it beyond 45 degrees when back dragging but on the occasions that I have it has been with very loose material with little opportunity of hitting something immovable.

 

[RadarTech]

Ok-- I think I understand the questions..
and I have to side with the comments about a box blade...
OR a pulverizer...


Let me pose a little bit of a situation here...

Where I live in NC, we had a fairly rough winter and lots of rain at times.
This led to some driveway areas with washes.
If I have a dozer, I would just push the dirt and be fine..
Since I did not have one here is what I did...
I took the box blade dropped the teeth all the way down, angled the blade with the left side as far down as I could.
then made a couple of passes to loosen the dirt...
then backed up and put the bucket down.
pushing all the loose dirt and the box dragging again..

took some time but 5 feet wide, 60 feet long... was dug 3 feet down and the drive was leveled with a new ditch and the dirt raised the low spots and created a few "speed" bumps and angled the area so water got better flow...

now if your raising and dropping "bumps"-- the combo of the box blade and scarfiers work so much better than almost anything you can do with just the bucket..


anyway I hope this helps...

J

 

[savageactor7]

newdeal are you in low gear with your RPM's up when you do this? Never work dirt in high gear...I suppose traveling on a firm surface is OK. Otherwise low gear is your friend.

 

[newdeal]

yes i am in low. I tried the box blade today, it didnt work as well as the loader but at least I dont think it will damage anything. The box blade is good but it works poorly in some areas because the soil is heavy clay which is quite wet underneath and so there are many large clumps, made worse by the fact that there are also big masses that are roots and grass that were dug up. Those dont really smooth out well because they are too big to get under the box blade and so I need to raise the blade up to get them out at the end resulting in some pretty big bumps at times. Unfortunately alot of the field is wet so there are some areas I can't work on anyway but I want to get done what I can before the vegetation grows and I can't do anything with it anymore.

 

[AchingBack]

yes i am in low. I tried the box blade today, it didnt work as well as the loader but at least I dont think it will damage anything. The box blade is good but it works poorly in some areas because the soil is heavy clay which is quite wet underneath and so there are many large clumps, made worse by the fact that there are also big masses that are roots and grass that were dug up. Those dont really smooth out well because they are too big to get under the box blade and so I need to raise the blade up to get them out at the end resulting in some pretty big bumps at times. Unfortunately alot of the field is wet so there are some areas I can't work on anyway but I want to get done what I can before the vegetation grows and I can't do anything with it anymore.

Your biggest problem is working the soil when it is too wet. Clay has a window of opportunity between too dry, and too wet. When it is in a crumbly stage is the best time.

As to most of the other posts I've read here, I think some of you are in for a rude awakening by back dragging at a steep angle, especially the operator in the Youtube video with his front tires of the ground, while spreading gravel on the driveway. Don't be surprised when a tilt cylinder bends, or snaps in half. And it won't be replaced under warranty.

I'd wager if you actually looked in your loader manual you will find a stern warning against such procedures.

 

[PILOON]

I back blade all the time at shallow angles with no problems.

When my toothbar is installed I often actually dig material by curling my bucked but do so rather gently without jacking my front off of the ground. Kinda like an excavator, only with the bucket facing the wrong way. Handy to pull down mounds to a loadable position.

IMHO opinion, all manouvers are OK BUT never shock loading (like wham bang), just let hydraulics do the work. They are, after all just like shock absorbers.

For instance, jsut last week I moved rocks bigger than my bucket (never even tried to lift) by simply curling the bucket and rolling them to position and using the bucket with down angle slid them in place to create a retaining wall.
Never lost a one!
Sort of use my bucket heel like palm (to push) and fingers (to hold back) as I slide big rocks into place. Naturally I use teeth to prepare a bed to sit the rock otherwise I risk losing it.
Shored up a large parking area that way an a sloping hillside.
Some rocks I chained down from heights of perhaps 6 ft to manageable positions.

BUT I never 'slam bang' my bucket and always use rather gentle angles and I have logged over 1200 hrs.
Treat the back blade the same way. Gentle cuts, often reverse drag the blade for fine finishing, works like a charm.

Another thing I have done lately:
Back drag my tooth bar and use it like a root 'ripper' to rid the soil of roots and unwanted vegatation prior to loading the bucket.
When I do this my bucket is near vertical and I use float position so that If I snag imbeded rocks or big roots the angle+float lets the bucket ride up and over the obsticle.
IMHO, safer backwards at angle+float rather than forwards as that could shockload the loader arms.

 

[Mock1]

Be careful with this one, "IMHO opinion, all manouvers are OK BUT never shock loading (like wham bang), just let hydraulics do the work. They are, after all just like shock absorbers." Fluids, by nature, do not compress,
gasses do. I agree with not shock loading part of it. Just be careful
not to think of your hydraulic system as a shock absorber, cus your in for a big surprise.

 

[Mace Canute]

How about something like this?

 

[Mudfarmer]

Boy - I'm surprised at all the dithering on these replies. Back blading with a front end loader is a standard operating procedure. I appreciate the tips on technique, but for those worrying about breaking your tractor leave it go. If you break it, fix it. Or maybe it means you under-bought originally and need to get a bigger one anyway. If your tractor can't take a little abuse you better look at a different brand.
Mf