Angle of attack for bucket

[SPYDERLK]

It does take time to get the hang of things.

But dont try attacking the bottom of the pile with a level bucket.

As mentioned, onceyou are started into the pile just a little bit, pull the joystick straight towards you while you continue forward. This will raise and curl back at the same time. Instead of trying to take a big bite out of the bottom, this will get you started and let you "shave" a layer off the outside on your way up.

I have done just fine without a tooth bar so I cant comment on that as I dont have one (but would like to build one).

Another important thing here is rear ballast. What do yo have on the 3PH for weight?? Kubotas are light. I have my doubts at the effectiveness of even a tooth bar without sufficent counterweight. And rear blades usually arent heavy enough IMO for heavy loader work. Try throwing on your heaviest implement (box blade or bushhog would work) and try again. (Assuming you didn't have anything out back before)

In my opinion, all good advice already, but here is something else you can try. if the dirt is really hard, you can go up to the mound, very slowly, with bucket tilted down a little, when you contact pile, (assuming you have a hydro tranny) put a little pressure on it with the hydro pedal, and rock the bucket tilt up and down several times to kinda "wedge" the bucket in the dirt. dont apply too much pressure with the hydro pedal just enough to keep some forward pressure , but not enough to spin the wheels, once the bucket goes forward into the dirt, (you should feel the tractor move foward just a few inches) then curl fully, and actually lower the lift a little then raise a little then back out with the hydro. see if that doesnt work.. James K0UA

K0ua suggestion is good to help you get a bite. After that the curl and continue forward while raising as LD1 says works very well to shave the pile into the bucket aiding a full load. With practice you can tailor the technique to take best advantage of the amt of force your tractor can apply.
larry

 

[LD1]

Good Morning Ian,


In order to remove your dirt pile with a loose materials gathering bucket you

have understand that the geometry of the loose materials bucket has a huge

surface area in contact with an immovable object which is the dirt and that

the tractor does not have the mass or power to physically move the pile in its

present form(if it did all the weld would be broken and the bucket torn up).



What is happening to you is what happens to everyone who owns a machine with a loose materials bucket that is attempting to move dense material that has been compacted by gravity, time, and water-rain fall.


You will have to be happy with simply slicing bits of the pile off- a few inches at a time and in this way you will not weaken the welds of the bucket and eventally break them at the lower cutting edge corners.

I guess it is a good thing that they employ good welders @ kubota.

While having a tooth bar may indeed help with hardpacked piles/dirt, I have yet to use one. And I have moved and dug pleanty of holes in out hard ohio clay. And I have yet to break andy welds or tear the bucket up.

You have to relize that we are dealing with compact tractors here and NOT heavy equipment. The buckets/loaders are built pleanty heavy enough. I have drove into piles until my tires spun, tried to lift/curl more than the hydraulcis would, and everythig is still solidly intact.

Haywire, your bucket will be just fine. Dont worry about "weakening" the welds and breaking your bucket. (unless you plan on taking the bucket off and putting it on a 10,000lb skid-loader)

I can say that without something on the 3PH is most likely your problem. IF you could even get a full load of dirt, you would nave a hard time keeping the back tires down, not to mention all that extra load on the front axle. A toothbar MAY help you to get a fuller bucket, but you should first be concerned with a counter weight to "unload" the front axle. It is not good to have all that weight up there. Just a counterweight alone and you will notice night and day difference in the capability of your machine.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I have done this before. I used a box scraper with the chisels in the lowest position to go over the dirt mount to loosen it up. Piece of cake after that. Philip.

 

[jimmer2880]

I agree with LD1. You don't have to worry about the welds on the bucket. Unless you go messing with the hydraulic pressure relief settings, or drive fast into a hard object, you'll likely never break a weld on these tough little tractors.

 

[Egon]

I'll get on the pile with a shovel and break it up. That'll be the cheapest route.

Add a wheel barrow and shovel and sell the Tractor??? Cost will go right down.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Practice will help lots. Skimming off the corners works well. Approaching straight on have a slight down angle on the bucket and start curling up and keep going forward at a very very low speed.

Yes I know one is not supposed to do it this way but it works so!:thumbsup:


Also keep the approach flat and level and continue that as you get into the pile.

Picture attached showing approach angle. Clearing snow here but it's the same for dirt.

 

[RTII]

I don't think it was mentioned. Make sure you're in 4 wheel drive. Makes a difference.

I use my box blade on the 3 pt. for counter weight. Also, I've got a toothbar and while it does break up a settled mound some, it also seems to reduce the capacity that will break out when the bucket curls to complete the fill. I've always assumed this is due to the weight of the bar. I tend to need to start backing out as I curl to reduce the load on the bucket. i did pretty good before I had the toothbar after getting past the learning curve so there are times I wonder if it was needed. Now that I have it I tend to leave it on most of the time though.

The edge of the bucket is pretty tough and I used it pretty hard without any deformation prior to getting the tooth bar. That being said, not many rocks where I live.

 

[GT2]

Have to agree with others about rear weight. It seemed counter-intuitive at first but I have found I can dig much more efficiently with my back hoe attached.
I also begin back curling as soon as I make pile contact, other wise it tends to auger in and spin the tires.

I know everyone says don't ram the pile, but I find you need a certain amount of momentum for efficient bucket fill.

 

[repete]

When I have a stubborn pile i go to the top of the pile with my bucket as far in the "dump" position as possible. I then put the bucket down (with force) at the top edge of the pile and drag backward. This creates a pile of loose dirt that is easily scooped up.

A couple of hits with this procedure and you will soon start to use it all the time on anything stubborn. I find I can completely fill the bucket easier using this method.

My 2 cents.

 

[SPYDERLK]

When I have a stubborn pile i go to the top of the pile with my bucket as far in the "dump" position as possible. I then put the bucket down (with force) at the top edge of the pile and drag backward. This creates a pile of loose dirt that is easily scooped up.
My 2 cents.

Yep. works good.
larry

 

[TripleR]

I cannot improve on the advice given, effective use of your FEL just takes time and experience, so don't get discouraged.