smaller furrow for pvc

   / smaller furrow for pvc #1  

hizoot

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Sep 15, 2010
Messages
364
Location
Flint Texas
Tractor
jd 2520
WHat would be the better 3 pt attachment to dig lines for a sprinkler system....basically laying 3/4" pvc approximately 12" underground. Middlebuster seems to dig way to wide of a trench and the subsoiler is seemingly too narrow. Is the answer modifying one or the other to achieve a3-4" by 12" deep trench? Any links of someone that has done this? Thanks!
 
   / smaller furrow for pvc #2  
I used a middle buster when I laid my water line and wished i had rented a ditch witch afterwards. It just made to big of a mess. I dont see why you could not build something that would work. I just didn't have time. Good Luck
 
   / smaller furrow for pvc #3  
I've never had to do this, but I'd by the middle buster and take the plow tip off. Not all but most that I have see can be removed. You may have to make two passes. There are people here who have built things to lay cable using a middle buster and spool to put the cable in while trenching.

Wedge
 
   / smaller furrow for pvc #4  
WHat would be the better 3 pt attachment to dig lines for a sprinkler system....basically laying 3/4" pvc approximately 12" underground. Middlebuster seems to dig way to wide of a trench and the subsoiler is seemingly too narrow. Is the answer modifying one or the other to achieve a3-4" by 12" deep trench? Any links of someone that has done this? Thanks!

Even with a low end sub-soiler you get about 2 inches of width at the point, so there may not be a need for anything wider if you are just pulling 3/4 pvc pipe.
{I'm ASSUMING that you will pull it through as you go ???, maybe not.}
I don't see the point of opening a whole trench for this - but your choice.
You could add a "mole" to the bottom of a sub-soiler.
Basically a short length of chain with whatever size ball you want on the end to push the walls out.
Make it torpedo shape if you have fabricating facility, but a suitable size ball would do it and probably be easier to find.
 
   / smaller furrow for pvc #5  
WHat would be the better 3 pt attachment to dig lines for a sprinkler system....basically laying 3/4" pvc approximately 12" underground. Middlebuster seems to dig way to wide of a trench and the subsoiler is seemingly too narrow. Is the answer modifying one or the other to achieve a3-4" by 12" deep trench? Any links of someone that has done this? Thanks!

I would see about renting a self propelled vibrating plow as that would be the fastest way to do this for your project. they are used for golf course irrigation and cable laying all over the place by many contractors.

Short of creating a subsoiler with a shovel end to allow the PVC to be pulled in as you advance the other option is a small ditch witch which will be ;less time consuming if you cannot rent a vibrating plow or hire one.

granted it does not look like the ditcher in the picture but the vibrating plow is pushed into the soil and vibrates its way through pulling the cable or pipe with it and simply leaves a slit where it went which fills in after the job is done.
 

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   / smaller furrow for pvc #6  
WHat would be the better 3 pt attachment to dig lines for a sprinkler system....basically laying 3/4" pvc approximately 12" underground. Middlebuster seems to dig way to wide of a trench and the subsoiler is seemingly too narrow. Is the answer modifying one or the other to achieve a3-4" by 12" deep trench? Any links of someone that has done this? Thanks!

Subsoiler is not too narrow. Do some searching as this has been covered several times before. Previous posters have used black plastic pipe as it bends and holds up better as it is flexible. If you do it, use a piece of conduit to run the plastic through. 12" seems kind of deep, but maybe you have some specific reason?

Wanted to add that the following pictures are not mine but the result of others' postings over the years. You'll probably uncover several more with searching.
 

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   / smaller furrow for pvc #7  
WHat would be the better 3 pt attachment to dig lines for a sprinkler system....basically laying 3/4" pvc approximately 12" underground. Middlebuster seems to dig way to wide of a trench and the subsoiler is seemingly too narrow. Is the answer modifying one or the other to achieve a3-4" by 12" deep trench? Any links of someone that has done this? Thanks!


If possible use a larger pipe size if you have long runs as the friction loss is very high with 3/4" pipe. The smallest I use for anything now is 1" to one sprinkler head. I installed my sprinkler lines about 24" deep so I can use them in the winter time with no problems. This allows the heads to drain down easily.

If it were me I would rent a trencher if you don't have one.
 
   / smaller furrow for pvc #8  
If you are in an established lawn area, a small walk behind trencher may be the way to go. Most commercial rent-a-centers have them and they fit in the back of a pick up.

They dig a trench about 4 inches wide and go up to about 24 inches deep. Much less lawn damage than any other way we've seen. However, they do not work well in soil full of rock or stone. If there's alot of stone, or your not in an established lawn area a small backhoe is most likely the way to go.

If we are in a lawn area and we want to disturb as little lawn as possible, we walk our equipment on plywood. If we're running a trencher, we place plywood on both sides of the trench and most of the excavated material stays off the lawn and on a hard surface for pick up. Four to Six sheets should do it, depending on how much help you have. We use a small dump trailer and turf tires to move the dirt if we are using imported sand as backfill.

Double check the location of all underground services before you dig. Ripping into an underground power line or fiber optics can be enlightening and very costly.

I always layout the entire system with lime before we dig. This forces me to rethink the layout, rethink underground utility locations and helps prevent painting myself into a corner, so to speak.

You may want to consider using ABS rather than PVC pipe. ABS is more flexible, impact resistant, freeze resistant, easier to install and repair along with being less expensive.

Backfill takes time when done correctly but saves alot of problems down the road. When excavating a narrow trench, I always consider using sand as a backfill material, unless the existing soil is free flowing, dry and free of stone. Sand cushens the pipe, can be compacted easily and saves alot of time. I backfill the trench with "compacted' sand to about 3 inches from the top. The remainder is backfilled with topsoil.

Note the word compacted. Sooo many times I've seen people just push backfill into a trench in a lawn or driveway area. They'll be back adding more grave,topsoil and seed in about a year. They don't have enough time to do it right the first time but someone will have to take time to do it again.
 
   / smaller furrow for pvc #9  
If you are in an established lawn area, a small walk behind trencher may be the way to go. Most commercial rent-a-centers have them and they fit in the back of a pick up.

They dig a trench about 4 inches wide and go up to about 24 inches deep. Much less lawn damage than any other way we've seen. However, they do not work well in soil full of rock or stone. If there's alot of stone, or your not in an established lawn area a small backhoe is most likely the way to go.

If we are in a lawn area and we want to disturb as little lawn as possible, we walk our equipment on plywood. If we're running a trencher, we place plywood on both sides of the trench and most of the excavated material stays off the lawn and on a hard surface for pick up. Four to Six sheets should do it, depending on how much help you have. We use a small dump trailer and turf tires to move the dirt if we are using imported sand as backfill.

Double check the location of all underground services before you dig. Ripping into an underground power line or fiber optics can be enlightening and very costly.

I always layout the entire system with lime before we dig. This forces me to rethink the layout, rethink underground utility locations and helps prevent painting myself into a corner, so to speak.

You may to consider using ABS rather than PVC pipe. ABS is more flexible, impact resistant, freeze resistant, easier to install and repair along with being less expensive.

Backfill takes time when done correctly but saves alot of problems down the road. When excavating a narrow trench, I always consider using sand as a backfill material, unless the existing soil is free flowing, dry and free of stone. Sand cushens the pipe, can be compacted easily and saves alot of time. I backfill the trench with "compacted' sand to about 3 inches from the top. The remainder is backfilled with topsoil.

Note the word compacted. Sooo many times I've seen people just push backfill into a trench in a lawn or driveway area. They'll be back adding more grave,topsoil and seed in about a year. They don't have enough time to do it right the first time but someone will have to take time to do it again.


Very good post and right on the money. ABS isn't available in my area but PVC is. I agree with sand in a trench too.
 
   / smaller furrow for pvc
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks! I really appreciate the input. You have given me alot to think about.
Here is a little more info, that I should have provided up front I guess.... We built this house starting last January and moved in in July. The land was pasture land for decades and had a 5ft fall in 70ft. We hauled in 110 12 yd loads of red select for the pad . It was compacted as it was layed in. So, all but the surrounding house pad is good old east texas sugar sand that is about 5 ft deep in most areas before hitting clay.. The existing grasses are coastal , bahia,and weeds. We will be starting over with bermuda and centipede mix.

house1.jpg
 
 

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