a new (to me) TC40a

   / a new (to me) TC40a #1  

GRI

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2009
Messages
52
Location
in the woods NYS
Tractor
Kubota L185DT
I just got a TC40a with a loader and 6ft brush hog.
I have a few questions.

1)when I tilt the bucket(up or down) the 3 point hitch arms go down? is that right?

2)all the dip sticks have two holes on them, I am assuming the bottom one indicates min and the upper is max?

3) in the operators area on the fenders there is indentations and 4 plastic push pins that cover holes. Is there options you can buy from F-NH that bolt in or something? if so then what and where can I view these.

4)I know some of you are pretty crafty. I will be using this tractor in the woods for firewood and trail cleaning. I need to mount my chainsaw somewhere out of harms way and someway that wont allow it to move around. what have some of you done to mount your chainsaws?
I also need a toolbox mounted somehow.
 
   / a new (to me) TC40a #2  
I just got a TC40a with a loader and 6ft brush hog.
I have a few questions.

1)when I tilt the bucket(up or down) the 3 point hitch arms go down? is that right?

2)all the dip sticks have two holes on them, I am assuming the bottom one indicates min and the upper is max?

3) in the operators area on the fenders there is indentations and 4 plastic push pins that cover holes. Is there options you can buy from F-NH that bolt in or something? if so then what and where can I view these.

4)I know some of you are pretty crafty. I will be using this tractor in the woods for firewood and trail cleaning. I need to mount my chainsaw somewhere out of harms way and someway that wont allow it to move around. what have some of you done to mount your chainsaws?
I also need a toolbox mounted somehow.

1. No. Is your loader aftermarket? Hydraulicsmay be incorrectly tapped.

2. Yes

3. On the left side where the fender hits the floorboard is a small storage bin with a cup holder on top. The front remote control valve for the loader is on the right side. If you have an aftermarket loader you may not have the NH loader valve.

4. I just put mine in the bucket.
 
   / a new (to me) TC40a
  • Thread Starter
#3  
my loader isnt aftermarket.

i dont seem to have the storage bin with cup holder.

the indentations I am talking about are on top of the fenders. even with my arms.
 
   / a new (to me) TC40a #4  
GRI, for your 3PH to drop when the loader operates, it seems to indicate the 3PH is leaking down really fast. When you operate the loader, all fluid is directed to the loader. The 3PH just holds wherever it is. It's normal that you can't move the 3PH up while operating the loader. If your 3PH has a bad leak, it would start to drop because there is no hydraulic pressure available for the position control valve to use to lift the 3PH. As a test, raise your 3PH up and then shut off the engine. If you have a leak, you'll see the 3PH drop after the engine is shut off.

You are reading the dipsticks correctly. Two holes = min/max.

The only option you can add to your tractor is the toolbox with the cupholder on top. That actually sits on the left side operator's platform and bolts up to to the left fender well. The indentions on top of the fenders are for the Deluxe (TC40DA) model tractors. On these consoles you have all your levers and switches needed for the HST transmission models. You would gain nothing by having these consoles. See the photos attached of my tractor with these consoles.

I think the safest place to mount a chainsaw is the area between the ROPS and right behind the operator's seat. That is the most protected area and gives you easy access from on the tractor or off the tractor. Several people have mounted a toolbox there. I had one there, but removed it because it was too big and obstructed my view of the 3PH area. I think a bracket and mounting a chainsaw there would be fine. The third picture below is my toolbox before I removed it. You can see it's a monster. I used u-bolts to attach it to the ROPS. If was very secure, but I just couldn't see over it from the seat.
 

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   / a new (to me) TC40a
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Ok thx for the info. I will check the 3pt hitch and see if it drops after I shut it down. Should I have an attachment on for weight when I test it?

Could there be a valve that isn't adjusted properly?
 
   / a new (to me) TC40a
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I just tried it. i have the brush hog on it and as soon as the tractor is shut off the 3pt arms drop. but every tractor i have owned did that.
 
   / a new (to me) TC40a #7  
On my TC29 it takes hours for the 3 pt lift arms to drop the brush hog w/ the engine off.
 
   / a new (to me) TC40a #8  
I just tried it. i have the brush hog on it and as soon as the tractor is shut off the 3pt arms drop. but every tractor i have owned did that.

Here is a photo of the Case equivalent of our New Hollands. It is essentially the same tractor as yours. This round bale was on the 3PH for about 2 weeks and never dropped. Your arms should not drop also. You have a leak in your lift cylinder or the HPL valve that controls the 3PH is leaking. Sorry to give you the bad news, but you need a repair. The good part is that this is a relatively simple job, especially on a TC40A model.
 

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   / a new (to me) TC40a
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Nice. How do I know which one it is and how much is it to fix?
 
   / a new (to me) TC40a #10  
To determine what is bad, with the engine running, lift the 3PH all the way to the top with some weight on it (boxblade, cutter, etc). When the lift gets to the top, close the drop speed control valve under the seat. It's a metal lever with a rabbit and turtle on it (see photo below). Turn it all the way towards turtle. Now, shut off the engine. If the lift drops, it is the cylinder seals that need replaced. If the lift does not drop, it is the HPL valve or something else. Don't forget to return the drop speed control back to where it was before ending this test.

As far as cost, if you do the job yourself, this will probably be less than $50 to repair. You will have to buy a gasket and two piston seals (items 41, 45, 46 below). The piston itself is item 44. When you remove the cover as seen in the photo, you will have access to the piston. Of course, if you have to repair the HPL valve, that would be much more expensive. The great thng is if you have this done at a dealer, it will also be fairly inexpensive. If you are not sure of yourself on this repair, that's what I'd recommend.
 

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