Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions?

   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #31  
Why not just use the BH?

Mainly because of time. It certainly is possible, but the bh is primarily designed for digging deep narrow trenches. Ponds are usually at least several times wider than they are deep. With the bh, you have to put down the stabilizers, spin the seat, get off and back on, move a couple of feet, reset everything. With a subsoiler on back and FEL on front, you just go. Rip a few passes, scoop, transport, all the while remaining in the seat and facing forward.
 
   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #32  
Mainly because of time. It certainly is possible, but the bh is primarily designed for digging deep narrow trenches. Ponds are usually at least several times wider than they are deep. With the bh, you have to put down the stabilizers, spin the seat, get off and back on, move a couple of feet, reset everything. With a subsoiler on back and FEL on front, you just go. Rip a few passes, scoop, transport, all the while remaining in the seat and facing forward.

True. I wish it had a creep feature...
 
   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #33  
True. I wish it had a creep feature...

I do too. That is easier to do, however, with straight mechanical gearing than with a hydro. All in all, I love hydro, but creep really would be nice for ground engagement work: low speed but high torque. I could really pull that subsoiler ripper tooth through the hardpan then.
 
   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #34  
I do too. That is easier to do, however, with straight mechanical gearing than with a hydro. All in all, I love hydro, but creep really would be nice for ground engagement work: low speed but high torque. I could really pull that subsoiler ripper tooth through the hardpan then.

I'm talking about creep to reposition while using the BH.
 
   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #35  
I'm talking about creep to reposition while using the BH.

Put the HST range selector in neutral. Raise the loader bucket and outriggers slightly and push the machine along with the BH. Lower the bucket set the outriggers and dig. Repeat.
 
   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #36  
I'm talking about creep to reposition while using the BH.

Gotcha, sorry for misunderstanding you. I've heard some use "creep feature" in the same way as "pulling gear."

Put the HST range selector in neutral. Raise the loader bucket and outriggers slightly and push the machine along with the BH. Lower the bucket set the outriggers and dig. Repeat.

That method wouldn't offer enough resistance in my soil. When I use the bh in this tough clay, I have to put the toothbar on the FEL, impale the teeth and lift the front end off the ground before lifting the rear with the outriggers. If I left the front wheels on the ground (even in gear, but especially in neutral), the whole tractor would slide more than it already does. My clay is hard enough, but the Duripan below is about the hardness of a two year old bag of mortar that's been sitting in a damp basement. When the bh bucket teeth are pulling in that stuff, the tractor is being dragged toward the bh and so I have to have as much steel planted in the ground as possible for resistance. First I lift the bh and outriggers, then get off the seat, but rather than spin it, I stand on the ground, lift the FEL, hold the wheel with one hand, press the pedal with the other hand, all the time looking at my feet :shocked: in relation to the location of the wheels. I then hop back on the rear facing seat.

This being said, I realize not all soil is as bad as mine and your technique likely works fine for many people.
 
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   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #37  
Whether the BX25 had creep ability was one of my first question to which the "TBN Board" answer was "no." But, I just read a thread here on B26 mod's where one poster outlined a safety switch on the seat that provides continuity when in the forward position but no continuity when rotated for BH duty and that's what prevents you from moving the tractor with the seat reversed. Apparently, he taped the switch to be closed all the time which allows him to creep the machine for BH work. I'm going to look for that switch on mine and give overriding it some thought. This would be just so I could delicately move the machine for BH work, and I would leave the operator presence switch in tact to keep a measure of safety in place.

Heck, here's the post I'm referring to - better than my synopsis which is probably longer than his post..:laughing:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/.../165639-custom-options-b26-3.html#post2279800
 
   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions? #38  
Gotcha, sorry for misunderstanding you. I've heard some use "creep feature" in the same way as "pulling gear."



That method wouldn't offer enough resistance in my soil. When I use the bh in this tough clay, I have to put the toothbar on the FEL, impale the teeth and lift the front end off the ground before lifting the rear with the outriggers. If I left the front wheels on the ground (even in gear, but especially in neutral), the whole tractor would slide more than it already does. My clay is hard enough, but the Duripan below is about the hardness of a two year old bag of mortar that's been sitting in a damp basement. When the bh bucket teeth are pulling in that stuff, the tractor is being dragged toward the bh and so I have to have as much steel planted in the ground as possible for resistance. First I lift the bh and outriggers, then get off the seat, but rather than spin it, I stand on the ground, lift the FEL, hold the wheel with one hand, press the pedal with the other hand, all the time looking at my feet :shocked: in relation to the location of the wheels. I then hop back on the rear facing seat.

This being said, I realize not all soil is as bad as mine and your technique likely works fine for many people.

To clarify, I'm talking about moving the machine progressively forward when digging a trench with the backhoe. You've dug to the depth you want and you've dug as close to the back of the tractor as possible. You need to move the machine forward a few feet to a new "set" to continue the trench.

Make sure the transmission is in neutral and the brakes are off.
Put the BH bucket in the trench as close to the tractor as possible. The bucket should be uncurled. Push the teeth down into the dirt at the bottom of the trench. Without leaving your seat, reach toward the front of the tractor with your left hand and raise the loader bucket slightly above the ground. Raise the outriggers slightly above the ground. Using the backhoe "dipperstick" out and "Boom" down, push the tractor forward. When you've moved far enough, lower the loader bucket and raise the front wheels off the ground as high as you like. Lower the outriggers and raise the rear. That's as anchored as you can get. Then dig. Go watch a pro. You won't see him drivin' forward.:thumbsup:
 
   / Just ordered a new BX25, any suggestions?
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Make sure the transmission is in neutral and the brakes are off.
Put the BH bucket in the trench as close to the tractor as possible. The bucket should be uncurled. Push the teeth down into the dirt at the bottom of the trench. Without leaving your seat, reach toward the front of the tractor with your left hand and raise the loader bucket slightly above the ground. Raise the outriggers slightly above the ground. Using the backhoe "dipperstick" out and "Boom" down, push the tractor forward. When you've moved far enough, lower the loader bucket and raise the front wheels off the ground as high as you like. Lower the outriggers and raise the rear. That's as anchored as you can get. Then dig. Go watch a pro. You won't see him drivin' forward.:thumbsup:

:thumbsup:
This is why I like these forums. I can't wait to practice this on my new BX25.
 

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