Rear ballast when using box blade

[Mechanos]

I'm wanting to experiment with rear ballast for added traction when using the box blade on my 955. Obviously, adding weight the box blade does nothing for traction when the BB is on the ground. My first thought was to attach a weight bracket to the drawbar, but I don't really like the idea of a lot of weight bouncing around on the drawbar... potentially cracking the transaxle housing.

I have liquid filled rear tires, but no wheel weights (which are crazy expensive). Has anyone else hung additional weight on the rear of their tractor... not using the 3pt?

 

[dsmau]

Hi Mechanos,
In my experience, using a 5ft BB on my 855 with 4wd, rear chains and loader, the engine would slow down before traction would become a problem. Of course, your 955 has many more horses but if you notice how the blade is curved on the BB, it actually pulls the rear of the tractor down quite a bit when driving forward so might actually act the same as having weight on the rear. This is why you can pull a lot more going forward than backing up. At least that's my theory
BTW, Did you get your front wheel drive-shaft in place? You really need 4wd to use the BB in my opinion. The FEL weight also helps...

 

[glc24]

You really need 4wd to use the BB in my opinion. The FEL weight also helps...

:thumbsup:

Greg

 

[Nick359]

I have a 5 foot box blade for my 755. I have ag tires no wheel weights. I don't know if they are filled, the previous owner couldn't tell me.

Two wheel drive is fine for grading the driveway. Four wheel drive is necessary for digging in dirt. I also make sure the loader is on. I saw little difference in the performance with a full or empty bucket.

My engine isn't stock, so I run out of traction before HP now.

If you want more weight, suitcase weights mid mounted off the loader frame, or some type of custom mount, might be an option for you. Last time I went to the truck pulls, one guy was cheating putting weights under his floor mats.

 

[North Country]

I don't know if they are filled, the previous owner couldn't tell me.

Drive until the valve stem is low. Press in the center of the valve with a key. Liquid=filled, air=not filled.

Or, you may not care - I suspect you don't.

 

[Nick359]

Drive until the valve stem is low. Press in the center of the valve with a key. Liquid=filled, air=not filled.

Or, you may not care - I suspect you don't.

I guess I should have figured that out. The fronts are not loaded. I had to fix both of them. I just figured I would have to take the back ones off one day and if they were heavy I would know they are loaded.

I am out of town for work, so I will be checking when I get home.

Anyways loaded or not. It doesn't pull the box blade in 2 wheel very well. You need to have 4 wheel to pull a five footer.

 

[Mechanos]

...BTW, Did you get your front wheel drive-shaft in place? You really need 4wd to use the BB in my opinion. The FEL weight also helps...

Not yet... I finally got a chance to work on the tractor tonight, though. I got the front spindle shaft seals replaced on one side done before it got dark. The other side should go faster now that I've done it once. Once I get the other side done, I'll refill the front axle and re-install the front d-shaft. Then I've try out the BB again with 4WD.

 

[Redgoatea]

I run a 6' BB on my 870 and it works like a charm. As long as I'm in 4WD. Good luck hope yours works for you.

 

[Mechanos]

Getting closer. Got the spindle shaft seals replaced in the other side last night. I'll have to say that the engineering that went into this tractor is befuddling. I find excellent design features right next to completely ignorant design features. For example, the spindle shaft seals' mating surfaces are replaceable oil seal wear sleeves.... excellent design! The worn out rod end on the steering cylinder is made onto the cylinder shaft so only way to replace the rod end is to replace the entire steering cylinder.... ignorant design!

 

[Mechanos]

Finally got the front axle back together and front d-shaft installed. Had a chance to play with the box blade breifly today after I got done mowing. I had the rippers all the way down and box set at a fairly high angle of attack. Trying to rip through some well established Kentucky 31 sod, I could still stop the tractor with 3 wheels spinning once the blade started to dig in. If I lifted up on the box blade a little, I could rip through the sod. That's about all the time I had to mess with it. I haven't had a chance yet to try it in just dirt... just the tough sod.