KennyV
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2004
- Messages
- 2,601
- Tractor
- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
The Largest and Heaviest that will fit in the space...
When you are buying lead acid batteries always get the most weight for your $$... KennyV
Does not start when hot
- Thread starter czechsonofagun
- Start date
- Views: 42896
The Largest and Heaviest that will fit in the space...
When you are buying lead acid batteries always get the most weight for your $$... KennyV
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
double check amount of water in the battery. if problem with charging system. it could overheat battery and boil water out. been there done that. ruined a new battery within 2 starts and some hours running tractor before i even realized what was happening.
the terminals neg. and pos. on battery, have had some good amount of problems on various things, not just tractors. it comes down to. cleaning termials and clamps real good, double checking it is accepting charge and will start vehicle. then using the "battery terminals" spray protective stuff. ((kinda like a spray on purple plastic coating)). i hate to say it, but have had to use coca cola soda a couple times to clean off terminals they were so corroded.
most good automotive repair shops have a battery checker. i have never had to pay for a battery check. the larger and more expensive battery chargers, normally have some sort of battery tester built into them.
i never needed to go with a bigger battery beyond the default specs manufacture suggest. about only time a bigger battery might work for me is during the very cold temps. and having a larger capacity, might be just enough to get the tractor started. but if bigger battery vs getting say a battery warmer. i would most likely go with a battery warmer for cold temps.
the terminals neg. and pos. on battery, have had some good amount of problems on various things, not just tractors. it comes down to. cleaning termials and clamps real good, double checking it is accepting charge and will start vehicle. then using the "battery terminals" spray protective stuff. ((kinda like a spray on purple plastic coating)). i hate to say it, but have had to use coca cola soda a couple times to clean off terminals they were so corroded.
most good automotive repair shops have a battery checker. i have never had to pay for a battery check. the larger and more expensive battery chargers, normally have some sort of battery tester built into them.
i never needed to go with a bigger battery beyond the default specs manufacture suggest. about only time a bigger battery might work for me is during the very cold temps. and having a larger capacity, might be just enough to get the tractor started. but if bigger battery vs getting say a battery warmer. i would most likely go with a battery warmer for cold temps.
KennyV
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2004
- Messages
- 2,601
- Tractor
- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
Oh... one more thing about getting the Largest & Heaviest battery for the money...
It's a Tractor, the weight is a PLUS.....
If it were an aircraft, heavier may not be that big a Plus...
as for warming a battery...
generally the current flow to run the glow plugs is adequate to warm a battery all it needs .... KennyV
It's a Tractor, the weight is a PLUS.....
If it were an aircraft, heavier may not be that big a Plus...
as for warming a battery...
generally the current flow to run the glow plugs is adequate to warm a battery all it needs .... KennyV
OP
czechsonofagun
Elite Member
Soo, I was able to start it with the battery out and boost cables in from my jeep.
Put the battery on a floater and charged it full and the tractor started just fine.
Took a meter to the battery and with the engine running it shows 12.5x volts no matter how high rpms are = it does not charge. Gotta dig into it when I have some time, so far the tractor gets parked and connected to floater to make sure I start it when needed.
Ideas?
Put the battery on a floater and charged it full and the tractor started just fine.
Took a meter to the battery and with the engine running it shows 12.5x volts no matter how high rpms are = it does not charge. Gotta dig into it when I have some time, so far the tractor gets parked and connected to floater to make sure I start it when needed.
Ideas?
riptides
Super Member
Sorry, I don't trust the battery......
Or the cable ends are getting just right, when your switching stuff in and around.
Or the cable ends are getting just right, when your switching stuff in and around.
EE_Bota
Veteran Member
When I check a system where the battery could be bad or the charging could be bad:
I test the battery volts on the battery posts themselves. This voltage will be the highest is is going to get during the test, unless charging happens. Write that value down.
I start the vehicle, give it some throttle, and I test the battery at the posts themselves, and at the post clamps too.
(If there is no charging, this voltage will be lower than before. You took charge out of the battery during starting. The voltage cannot be higher..unless there is charging.)
If the voltage is higher at the posts after the start, there must be some charging.
If the voltage at the clamps matches the voltage at the posts, the connection there must be clean enough for charging to happen.
If there seems to be no charging, I have to clean all connections from the battery to the charging source. Repeat the test. Still no charging? Charging has gone bad.
Battery: I have desulfating chargers. I charge them. I look for tiny bubbles floating to the top more or less equally cell to cell. No funny smells, and no violent bubbles. I don't have a battery tester, so if I didn't like what I saw while charging, I take it to a place that has a tester, and batteries for sell. My battery is either found to be good, or I arrive home with a good one. I buy the battery with the most cold cranking amps. I don't judge it by weight per se. If the cooling fan of the tractor blows over the battery toward the radiator, I buy sealed batteries. Otherwise, I buy vented maintenance required types.
Good luck!
I test the battery volts on the battery posts themselves. This voltage will be the highest is is going to get during the test, unless charging happens. Write that value down.
I start the vehicle, give it some throttle, and I test the battery at the posts themselves, and at the post clamps too.
(If there is no charging, this voltage will be lower than before. You took charge out of the battery during starting. The voltage cannot be higher..unless there is charging.)
If the voltage is higher at the posts after the start, there must be some charging.
If the voltage at the clamps matches the voltage at the posts, the connection there must be clean enough for charging to happen.
If there seems to be no charging, I have to clean all connections from the battery to the charging source. Repeat the test. Still no charging? Charging has gone bad.
Battery: I have desulfating chargers. I charge them. I look for tiny bubbles floating to the top more or less equally cell to cell. No funny smells, and no violent bubbles. I don't have a battery tester, so if I didn't like what I saw while charging, I take it to a place that has a tester, and batteries for sell. My battery is either found to be good, or I arrive home with a good one. I buy the battery with the most cold cranking amps. I don't judge it by weight per se. If the cooling fan of the tractor blows over the battery toward the radiator, I buy sealed batteries. Otherwise, I buy vented maintenance required types.
Good luck!
OP
czechsonofagun
Elite Member
Just to be sure - the dashboard light is on, when the system is charging? I seem to remember it was the other way than with a car.
taborekle
Gold Member
The voltage delivered by the alternator is controlled by a voltage regulator that is built into the alternator. One some of the heavier duty alternators, there is a independent 'sense' wire that is connected to the battery to get the true voltage of the battery. It has nothing to do with the RPM's of the engine.
KennyV
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2004
- Messages
- 2,601
- Tractor
- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
Just like in the car...IF the light is ON... the system IS Not working. KennyV
jakell2010
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2010
- Messages
- 216
- Tractor
- 2007 Cub Cadet 5364D
You likely have a charging issue,,,,alternator, connection?,something, the lights should be off on the dashboard when running, sounds like your running the tractor on the battery, and since it's a diesel, it doesn't take much juice
