zkurtb
Bronze Member
Ran across the following website that has a nice how-to description for easily creating a shallow well.
Driving a Wellpoint
Driving a Wellpoint
well-drilling with PTO??? anybody?
- Thread starter benjio
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OK, so I said in an earlier post "You will break and bend stuff, so just pay and have it done."
Since then I have involved myself in a community garden group and we probably won't have the fund$ for a driller, so the "DIY and sweat equity" option is being explored.
ONE problem may be that our site will not have water - and I mean not have water available for the actual drilling/driving, washing in PVC pipe, etc.
So the question is; How much water would we need to (somehow) truck in, for say a 20 ft shallow well ?
I accept that "it depends", but is there a working average (that we might have to double or triple) ?
Then; Does the flushing take huge pressure and volume of clean water ?
Since then I have involved myself in a community garden group and we probably won't have the fund$ for a driller, so the "DIY and sweat equity" option is being explored.
ONE problem may be that our site will not have water - and I mean not have water available for the actual drilling/driving, washing in PVC pipe, etc.
So the question is; How much water would we need to (somehow) truck in, for say a 20 ft shallow well ?
I accept that "it depends", but is there a working average (that we might have to double or triple) ?
Then; Does the flushing take huge pressure and volume of clean water ?
Tim Stuart
Silver Member
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- Jun 5, 2007
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- Coldspring, TX
- Tractor
- Mitsubishi bd2h dozer, Gradall G3WD, New Holland TC35a, Chevy Dump Truck
You may want to look into using some type of a hydraulic motor so it would it would give you the ability to put it in reverse if you hit a rock. Just a thought a hydraulic post hole digger motor mounted on a beam trolley with electric winch to pull the motor up/down and the pipe out of the hole?
Reversing runs the possibility of unscrewing pipe sections from each other.
I don't have the skills or tools to put much together, but it seems if you want to use the PTO to turn a very long pipe fairly slowly and at quite low power, then some form of belt or rope drive wrapped around the pipe could/should work.
Anyway, I still have the problem of needing to know how much water I would likely need to truck in to a site that has none and some estimate of what else needs to be figured for a site that has no power.
Tim Stuart
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2007
- Messages
- 125
- Location
- Coldspring, TX
- Tractor
- Mitsubishi bd2h dozer, Gradall G3WD, New Holland TC35a, Chevy Dump Truck
Reg said:
Instead of Just using pipe threads to hold the joints together drill a hole the through the couplings and put a bolt through the couplings and pipe with lock nuts to keep the pipe threads from backing out. (like a shear bolt on a brush hog) If you don't have the means or skills to over come this small issue you should just hire the job done. Not trying to be a smart *****.
Regards,
Tim
Somehow my limited intelligence says that would leak air in - - within a very short amount of time, perhaps a year maybe less.
There is nothing in the DIY methods I have read so far that recommends cross drilling the couplings, several do warn against reversing, they also remind the reader that pounding can loosen the couplings, so snug 'em up every so often.
Sprinklerman
Platinum Member
You would need different zones , the gpm isnt on the heads there are different nozzles for the heads whenyou buy them , generally figure on 2 gpm per head to get a 30 ft throw at 50 psi . Always undersize your zone gpm by 20% to give you room to adjust precipitation rates by changing nozzles in the heads .
( I am a irrigation contractor)