I sure hope so I just bought a used 72 inch bobcat plow with 2 sa cylinders and am banking that it works on my dk40se rears. Hopefully I receive it this week...
snow blade tilt?
- Thread starter moeh1
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I sure hope so I just bought a used 72 inch bobcat plow with 2 sa cylinders and am banking that it works on my dk40se rears. Hopefully I receive it this week...
I can't add a standard "remote kit", my B2150 was built before they thought CUT owners would actually do any hydraulic work with them.... Ill have to tap in on the power beyond side of my loader valve. It always was on my long range project list, but until now didn't have an actual use. From peoples experiences, it sounds more like I'd actually use if if I had it, could live without it if I don't like I am now. I'm not giving up that easily will take a better look at stuff this weekend. I went back and looked again at 4Shorts and Kubota Tees setup, that really looks like a great approach.
DK35vince
Super Member
A front blade isn't much better than just using the bucket if you can't angle it. So manual angle is a whole lot better than not be able to angle at all.
Power angle would be a lot better yet.
Power angle would be a lot better yet.
rayclar
Silver Member
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
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I could not do the plowing that I do in without the hydraulic angle function. Ok, I could but it would take 3 times as long easy. No way I would live without it.
Chris
Chris
jimmysisson
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Rayclar's is the bees knees, since it keeps the blade close-in. Plus it's beautifully done.
My 8' Fisher hangs off a modified truck A-frame setup welded to the Ford quick-attach. Power angle works fine off the rear remotes with 2 s/a cyls. Speeds up plowing over manual angle at least 2x. Steering is fine. I keep a heavy Gannon box on the back and weight distribution is good. I'd guess my setup weights 6500# or so, R1 tires. YMMV with a lighter rig.
Jim
My 8' Fisher hangs off a modified truck A-frame setup welded to the Ford quick-attach. Power angle works fine off the rear remotes with 2 s/a cyls. Speeds up plowing over manual angle at least 2x. Steering is fine. I keep a heavy Gannon box on the back and weight distribution is good. I'd guess my setup weights 6500# or so, R1 tires. YMMV with a lighter rig.
Jim
CJBOTA
Gold Member
My front blade has 6 movements, angle left, amgle right, rais, lower, tilt up, and tilt down. It is brand new and I haven't used it yet but I was wondering about the tilt up and down. I was planning on starting out with the skid shoes square to the ground but I was wondering if there were any pluses to running on the toes or heels of the skid shoes. I have it set with the shoes square I have a 1/2" of ground clearance at the blade. ( gravel Drive ) As i tilt down it has less clearance and tilt up for more clearance. I am guessing having the shoes square with the ground is best. Any advice?
4shorts
Elite Member
Marty. You'll need a way to change the angle of your snow plow either by hydrilics or manually. It's a must do in order to get the full benefit of the blade. When I built my conversion I added two rear shoes to the system so the rear of the attachment couldn't dig into the ground which is a nice feature.
I'm not a fan of swinging a chain from these blades because you loose your down pressure then and considering I plow on paved parking lots 99% of the time I need that down pressure.
One other thing you could consider if you wanted to avoid your power angle issues would be to convert your blade into a snow pusher. You'd just need to add sides to the blade and man they can move a lot of snow. That will be my next project actually. Might be something that would work better for you.
That being said. I has over 300 hours plowing commercially with my set up and there's nothing I would change on it. My buddy "Kubota Tee" went by my design and really likes it. Done right, a properly fitted snow plow can move a lot of snow efficiently and fast. Good luck
Paul
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/131136-snow-plow-adapted-front-end.html
I'm not a fan of swinging a chain from these blades because you loose your down pressure then and considering I plow on paved parking lots 99% of the time I need that down pressure.
One other thing you could consider if you wanted to avoid your power angle issues would be to convert your blade into a snow pusher. You'd just need to add sides to the blade and man they can move a lot of snow. That will be my next project actually. Might be something that would work better for you.
That being said. I has over 300 hours plowing commercially with my set up and there's nothing I would change on it. My buddy "Kubota Tee" went by my design and really likes it. Done right, a properly fitted snow plow can move a lot of snow efficiently and fast. Good luck
Paul
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/131136-snow-plow-adapted-front-end.html
I use the tilt on mine to go from shoes to blade. I tilt it back to get the blade up as it rides on the shoes for most work including the gravel drive. But I can also tilt it down/forward to get the blade contact so I can scrape the concrete portion of the drive clean.
