snow blade tilt?

[4shorts]

yes i have float on my loader also , but by using the chain as a float that keeps the full weight of the loader on the front tires. That makes for easing steering and better control.

Oh I see. I don't have any steering issues but I used to operate heavy equipment so I got very used to using the FEL. I never use the float feature but feather the weight on the blade. I guess what ever works is good :thumbsup:

 

[moeh1]

Alright,
all this input has me sold on angling the blade...Now I have to look into adding some hydraulic capability. Someone mentioned a diverter setup, need more education about these.

 

[nybirdman]

Check W.R.Long for a kit for your tractor.If you have a Kubota I can't recommend theirs.(I have one myself and others have had problems with it.)

 

[sbhunterca]

Thanks, Marty and all for starting and continuing this thread.

After years of plowing with the bucket and wishing I had an angled plow blade, there are plenty of good ideas here to work from.

I'm not using a CUT any more, having bought a John Deere 3140 4X4, but these ideas will be just as useful on the big beast.

Steve

 

[jacspath]

I suggest that you go through the hassle of making a remote angling [****, just attach chains to either end of the blade and pull it around back and forth if you have to]. I've got a manual plow and have a lot of steering trouble with much more than 6" of dry snow. That can be overcome by judicious angling while plowing. You can adjust the angle to accommodate the snow quality and quantity so as to be able to steer adequately in any given pass. If the snow + angle are too shallow to do it in one pass, just take another one with a steeper angle. I have 3/4 mile of relatively flat drive and I get by with a manual angle because I'm too cheeeeep to buy a cylinder and rig it up and have a very limping F250 which I go to the trouble of getting started most of the time, but would much rather use the Kubota since it starts right up and will get the job done in about the same amount of time [even with the multi passes] and with all the hassle of getting the F250 running. But it definitely won't handle deep, heavy stuff without a LOT of using the rear wheel brakes to steer.

 

[BobisCool]

I have an '80's JD 950 w/bucket loader,2 wd,no power steering. It has a steel aftermarket full cab, loaded tires,chains and a 50 gal plastic barrel filled w/water-ice. The thing must weigh 6000lbs! I have an older meyers, manual angle, truck snow plow frame that pins into two welded angle irons in the bucket and hangs from a chain attached to my bucket top edge. I use the corresponding meyers 7' plow and angle it one way for down my 800ft drive and the other way for up the hill. Man it's a bear to steer but I stay warm and it works great up to about 12" of snow at a time. Last year here in the shoreline of CT we got about 75 or 80". Once the piles got too big to push I got out my 2015 4 wd and bucket loaded the piles out to the woods.I like snow but my average clearing time for my drive was about 8 hrs. So much for paid work in a down economy.......No complaints though. J

 

[pickateer]

Regardless of whether you manually angle or power angle all snow plow moldboards should be tilted back at an angle of 21 degrees measured at the cutting bar which results in reducing the steering effort needed to control the vehicle. The 21 degree tilt of the mold board is allows the snow to actually roll more easily to the side. And I won't take any credit for this piece of knowledge since it was imparted to me by an engineer that worked for a major plow OEM. I met him while designing snow removal equipment for a major metropolitan agency. And unless someone has a heavy truck most light duty plow sales people are not aware of this angle setting. And looking at the photos in some of the posts shows the plows have no tilt back angle whatsoever! Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

 

[reguy]

This is the first time I have posted to this group although I have been on the sidelines reading for sometime.

It sounds like you are getting some good advise. I live in the Colorado Rockies at 9000 ft. and my driveway is about 1500 ft. long. I would agree with those that advise having some right or left angling ability to your blade to be very important.

Chains all the way around and weight up front, are also very important to me even with 4-wheel drive. I normally use my blade early in the season until there is some snow pack, at which time I switch over to my snowblower. I also find the cab on my tractor to be a godsend.

Good luck
Reguy

 

[Notforhire]

I looked at a Case TLB about 20 years ago, that had a bucket mounted 9 ft. plow. It was power angle. The owner had installed quick disconnects on the bucket tilt piston lines and used that to operate the plow angle. He felt that he didn't need bucket tilt to plow anyway.
The only down side he said was when just using the loader, the restriction caused by the connectors slowed the roll back on the bucket.
I never operated the plow, so I can't say how well it worked.

 

[chopped]

Remember if you go this rought on some tractors that have a regen system then it wont work..( dont ask how I know) lol And yes I was told byt he mechanic at the tractor shop it wouldnt work. Yet I went ahead and tried.LOL
reference
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/169883-can-someone-explain-regen-etc.html