Starting a tree and brush shear build

[Piston]

The only thing I'm concerned with, is that you have the push bar pushing the tree forward, but the shear will be cutting the tree sideways, so as you start cutting the natural hinge will be left to direct the tree sideways, but the push bar will be pushing it forward?

However, it looks like this is how the standard shear's work anyways, so they must have thought about that too :laughing:

I suppose since your shearing the tree, your not leaving any holding wood so maybe it's a non issue.

The higher the push bar is the better, to an extent, as you'd have more leverage the higher up, and the spring would be more effective.

By the way I think the heavy duty spring is a great, simplistic, and cheap idea. Good work :thumbsup:

 

[Ivan49]

I would make the pushbar with a V on the end. This may help to push the tree forward

 

[GE222]

I will second the idea of the push bar being able to kind of capture the tree and keep it in place, "V" or better yet, a "C" shape. I am especially curious as to how this will work when it is finished. :thumbsup:

 

[yanmars]

I have a tree shear, once on my 33 HP tractor. The base plate I think is about 1 1/2 or 2 inches thick. I did not build a bypass valve in it and the pressure actually bowed/bent that plate. It still works OK but not sure how I would ever straighten it. I found it too slow for the thousands of trees I needed to take down. I should just sell it I guess.
Only posting this so my problem can be avoided in your build.

 

[sandman2234]

I have a tree shear, once on my 33 HP tractor. The base plate I think is about 1 1/2 or 2 inches thick. I did not build a bypass valve in it and the pressure actually bowed/bent that plate. It still works OK but not sure how I would ever straighten it. I found it too slow for the thousands of trees I needed to take down. I should just sell it I guess.
Only posting this so my problem can be avoided in your build.

Pictures of your shear showing the area where the plate bent would help everybody in their designs. Energy to bend a plate 1 and a half inches thick is a above my expectations and I usually overbuild things. A picture will shed some light on why.
David from jax

 

[stuartmcraycattle]

I would like to see the damage to the shear blade as well... as far as the pusher bar being "v" or "c" shaped I don't know if that is quite necessary as the tree will inherently fall towards the side due to the shearing action. The bar would only to be to prevent backwards tilt (common sense says to judge the wind and cut with my back to the wind) so the tree will fall away from and to the side of the tractor... I guess I should also clarify that nothing I am cutting will be over 15 to 20 foot or over 6 inch base diameter... there are just a lot of them.... My lack of knowledge really is in the hydraulic end but if the blade stops precisely at the stop block or within 1 or 2 mm shouldn't most trees be cut enough to fall and keep the cylinder from bending the blade?

 

[rjmack]

btw, are these trees really tight together?

i have used brush saws with very good results in that sort of situation.

also, if you have a long cable, and somebody to hook the trees, can you just pull them out roots and all so you could smooth the ground nicely afterward?

also, if the trees are too tight, then they wouldn't fall forward anyway... isn't that why feller/bunchers lean the tree to the side?

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivatjLaYJU8[/ame]

 

[stuartmcraycattle]

The trees are scattered, not many bunched together. I considered making the blade bolt on so that i could also make a serrated grabber piece to attach and pull out the smaller sub 2" trees and bushes.. anything larger I think would tear up the field too much and we don't have a lot of good loose soil to fill holes or time to plant seed in the hundreds of bare spots that I would have LOL... any recommendations on specifications on hydraulic flow rates, bypass valves, pressures would be awesome from those knowledgeable in that area THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE IDEAS

 

[massy1635]

Here is a thought. Put the shear on the back and put a grapple on the front. Then you can clean up as you go

 

[hank193]

Here is a thought. Put the shear on the back and put a grapple on the front. Then you can clean up as you go

Having the shear on the 3pt would allow the ROPS to help protect the operator and still have a good view of the shearing.Heavy mesh screen mounted on the back of the ROPS would keep the limbs off him too. And a grapple or forks would be helpful in building piles of downed trees for pickup ,chipping ,etc.
I'm certainly interested in this project, keep going .
Just my $00.02 worth.