Project Ranch Fence

pokerboy57 · Dec 10, 2012

I'm going to replace a 150 yard 4 rail wooden ranch fence (post and rails). Fortunately the land it's on is very flat so I don't have to worry about an elevation change.

3 questions for those of you with ranch fence experience.

1. For a 4x4 post what size auger bit would you recommend ?
2. any tips for installing the post straight and level ?
3. I've pull the old post and want to use the same post placement having never used an auger before can I redrill the existing post holes ?

I'm located in central Florida so the soil is very soft and sandy no rocks to auger through.

I've been testing Behr solid wood stain with a new HVLP spray gun. This seems a great way to apply the finish and I can't wait to get to that stage of the project. The stain isn't cheap but I hope I won't be replacing this fence for quite sometime.

RxRatedZ71 · Dec 11, 2012

We used a string line pulled taught to set the fence line and a post level w/a rubberband attached to level & square each post. The diagonal width for a 4x4 post is 5.65" so a 6"bit would suffice. We used an 8" auger to allow for easier time pouring quikrete powder. If the soil is soft and youre not using 'crete, i would try to use the smallest auger to preserve the integrity of the surrounding soil.

RxRatedZ71 · Dec 11, 2012

In 2009 we used 4x4 PT posts and PT 1x6, but i will be redoing it within 5 years b/c they have cupped and warped and split horribly. Im gonna use 2x6PT next time.

BeezFun · Dec 11, 2012

pokerboy57 said:
3. I've pulled the old post and want to use the same post placement having never used an auger before can I redrill the existing post holes ?

If you got the old post out, I'd just put the new post in the same hole and try driving it with your bucket, don't drill at all. If you do have to drill, it should go right down the same hole with soil like you describe. A post pounder is much easier and faster than an auger, so if you have to put in any from scratch I'd try to get a pounder.

DT86 · Dec 11, 2012

BeezFun said:
...A post pounder is much easier and faster than an auger, so if you have to put in any from scratch I'd try to get a pounder.

Getting posts straight enough inline for a board fence with a driver is pretty difficult if you haven't used one before.

BeezFun · Dec 11, 2012

DT86 said:
Getting posts straight enough inline for a board fence with a driver is pretty difficult if you haven't used one before.

True, the auger gives you a little room to wiggle things around. My soil is so rocky it's impossible to get a hole where I plan to put it, so I end up putting the posts in a few inches short and then trimming the rails. He said his soil is soft and no rocks, so he might have an easier go of it with an auger. Although sometimes soft soil collapses and that's a separate problem.

DT86 · Dec 11, 2012

pokerboy57 said:
I'm going to replace a 150 yard 4 rail wooden ranch fence (post and rails). Fortunately the land it's on is very flat so I don't have to worry about an elevation change.

3 questions for those of you with ranch fence experience.

1. For a 4x4 post what size auger bit would you recommend ?
2. any tips for installing the post straight and level ?
3. I've pull the old post and want to use the same post placement having never used an auger before can I redrill the existing post holes ?

I'm located in central Florida so the soil is very soft and sandy no rocks to auger through.

I've been testing Behr solid wood stain with a new HVLP spray gun. This seems a great way to apply the finish and I can't wait to get to that stage of the project. The stain isn't cheap but I hope I won't be replacing this fence for quite sometime.

By post and rail do you mean a split rail fence or the type of fence that Rx showed?

I agree with Rx, a 6" auger would be ideal for tamping them, but if you have a loader you can use a 4" auger and then just push them in. If you are going to use the same holes I agree with Beez, you may not have to auger the holes at all. Again, just push them in.

As for getting them straight (this goes for either method) I set my two end posts and any corner posts first. Then run a masonry string like this one as tight as I can about a foot or so off the ground between them. Then if drilling new holes I measure where each post goes with a 100' tape and mark the holes with florescent marking paint.

As for getting them plumb when tamping them, I eye ball them until the dirt is almost completely tamped then use a four foot level to get them perfect by tamping more/harder on the side(s) the post is leaning to.

Check out my fence building pictures to see how mine turned out.

pokerboy57 · Dec 11, 2012

thank you everyone for all the suggestions. the fence I'm going to build is exactly what is in the pictures that RX posted. I thought about using the old holes but the post are so crocked and out of line today it would drive me crazy if I didn't straighten them out. I was going to use a 9 inch auger bit because I don't think I can drill a 42" hole with a 6 inch bit with enough accuracy. So I figured that the 9" bit will give me room to set the post straight and level even if the hole is not. Our soil is mostly sand with a little top soil thrown in to make it look black so drilling should take a few minutes if that to complete each hole. I expect to take as long to line up the auger bit as I do to drill the hole. I wonder if I can run a string (mason line) the entire distance . I will have to try it this weekend.

BTW: By pushing the post in do you mean pushing down on the post with the FEL bucket ? I never though of that.....

For those of you that are experienced hole drillers how do you insure that the hole is straight. I watched the Youtube video made by everythingattachments.com He had to slightly move the tractor several times while drilling...Is that your experience as well ?

DT86 · Dec 11, 2012

A nine inch hole means a lot of tamping! With someone watching to ensure you hit the paint mark you can be very accurate. You'll usually have to back up as your auger goes in to keep the hole plumb.

Yes, if you drill 4" holes the posts, especially in your sandy soil, should be easy to push into the ground with your loader.