Subsoiler for burying PEX

   / Subsoiler for burying PEX
  • Thread Starter
#11  
PEX will carry water from the house to the horse water tanks and chicken coop. 1 at the barn, 1 in the pasture, and the coop. 12/2 is for lighting to a flag pole light, automatic gate, tank heater, and chicken coop. I'll use 2 different circuits for the electrical.

For the water, I'll come out from under the house, go about 20' and then do a T. Left for about 300' to get to the barn and then right to go about 250' to get to the pasture tank where I'll T again and then another 200' to get to the coop.

For the 12/2, I'll come out with both ckts, go right into a junction box above grade with both circuits, then I'll take one and go forward about 30' to my flagpole and then on out to the end of the driveway for the gate. The other circuit will come out, go to the right to the pasture tank where I'll pull it to another junction box above grade and then carry it on to the coop. I'll get power for the barn tank from the barn.

Just got really tired of carrying water last winter.
 
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX #12  
For the water, I'll come out from under the house, go about 20' and then do a T. Left for about 300' to get to the barn and then right to go about 250' to get to the pasture tank where I'll T again and then another 200' to get to the coop.

For the cost of an extra 20ft of tubing, I'd put the first T under the house where you can get to it... less buried junctions is better. I sure wish the previous owner of my property had thought that way!
 
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX #13  
Attono, sounds like a good plan... best wishes... yep, water and power are wonderful once in... a pain to install...but, I think you will be wonderfully pleased how fast the subsoiler will do the major part of the work. Use your slowest speed and go SLOW. Try a few times before inserting the pex/12/2 to do it for real. Might cut a trench first to get the soil worked up and then repeat for real.
 
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX
  • Thread Starter
#14  
For the cost of an extra 20ft of tubing, I'd put the first T under the house where you can get to it... less buried junctions is better. I sure wish the previous owner of my property had thought that way!

I am going to use a sharkbite T in the existing copper to pull my supply and then add a cutout valve before I pass it through the foundation. This is a good idea though. I'll have to see if I've broken a large enough hole in the cinderblock to accomodate. Thanks!
 
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX #15  
When burying electrical cable or Tylene water hose, you need to either have a wheel in the pipe to put the hose down into the furrow, OR you need a man walking beside the subsoiler to push down the hose or cable into the guidance pipe, otherwise you'll get so much friction that it will rip off the cable or hose.
 
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Seems like it works fine for everybody else... What about dumping some cable lube into the pipe? I'm not using Tylene, it's PEX. Or are you saying that they are the same thing?

That's not funny, by the way. I just googled Tylene while sitting at work...
 
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX #18  
One thing I have learned is to make two or maybe 3 passes BEFORE you insert the cable/tube for this type of plowing in. That way it loosens up the soil in the first pass and it is easy to follow your wheel path to keep the sub soiler in the same trench. The person who said no Ts underground is the way I say too, sometimes ya have to but avoid it like plague if ya can...
 
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX #19  
   / Subsoiler for burying PEX #20  
PEX will carry water from the house to the horse water tanks and chicken coop. 1 at the barn, 1 in the pasture, and the coop. 12/2 is for lighting to a flag pole light, automatic gate, tank heater, and chicken coop. I'll use 2 different circuits for the electrical.

For the water, I'll come out from under the house, go about 20' and then do a T. Left for about 300' to get to the barn and then right to go about 250' to get to the pasture tank where I'll T again and then another 200' to get to the coop.

For the 12/2, I'll come out with both ckts, go right into a junction box above grade with both circuits, then I'll take one and go forward about 30' to my flagpole and then on out to the end of the driveway for the gate. The other circuit will come out, go to the right to the pasture tank where I'll pull it to another junction box above grade and then carry it on to the coop. I'll get power for the barn tank from the barn.

Just got really tired of carrying water last winter.

Remember voltage drop at long lengths... not sure long your driveway is.

Burying 12/3 for future use is not a bad idea as with a MWBC it gives you 2X the amperage by having a second 120v circuit, for only a little more money. Not necessary on the flagpole, but might be a good idea for the end of the driveway.
 

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