using heavier blades on a Bush Hog mower

[msjanket]

My 204 Bush Hog with twin tail wheels has basic blades in it. Cuts grass and up to an inch brush.

Question: Can I increase the weight of the blades on this machine by substituting a heavier blade over the standard? I'd guess the machine is heavy enough to well tolerate a heavier blade.

Or, is this simply a no-no?

I've thought of getting a heavier blade and cutting it down to reduce weight as the heavier ones are longer than the 204 blades and could stand shortening to make 'em fit.

What say you?

 

[Industrial Toys]

If it is a machine you care for, I would not deviate from manuf specs. Or consult with the manufacturer if that is even possible in this day and age. New equipment is hardly ever over built any more.

We have lots of stones. Years ago, we got tired of ruining blades on a three spindle Liliston Bush hog and torch cut some truck springs. Balance was an issue, and the blades although somewhat sharpened did not have the usual profile of a blade. But they hacked down the brush and trees.

 

[Dataway]

I'd guess you'd be fine if the weight was within 25-30% of the originals ... but something like twice as heavy might be a bit much. And yes ... balance them. Just make sure they weigh the same as each other. I'd worry more about making sure the tractor PTO clutch can handle the heavier engagement, or any kind of blade clutch or brake installed can handle it. Manufacturers are often pretty careful about over engineering rotating assemblies as their liability exposure is so great in that area. But yeah, as Toys says .... they don't do much over engineering these days.

 

[Qapla]

Another thing to consider is if the shear pin of the mower can handle the additional weight while running/cutting or during start/spin up. If you increase the grade of the shear you may cause damage to the PTO system/clutch or even damage the knuckle/gearing on the mower.

 

[4570Man]

If you engage the PTO at idle and ease out on the clutch I think shearing the shear pin won't be a problem.

 

[franklinute]

I own a Bushhog 286. I purchased blades for a 306 which are 1" wider
1/8" thicker and several pounds heavier. The catalog I got the specs from
said the 306 blades have a 1.5" bolthole. They arrived with a 2" bolthole
so I put a steel bushing in the bolthole. I also had to cut the head of the bolt
thinner to accomodate for the thicker blade. I have used these for at least
5 years and never had a problem. They seem to last much longer than
the standard blades.

 

[RickB]

I own a Bushhog 286. I purchased blades for a 306 which are 1" wider
1/8" thicker and several pounds heavier. The catalog I got the specs from
said the 306 blades have a 1.5" bolthole. They arrived with a 2" bolthole
so I put a steel bushing in the bolthole. I also had to cut the head of the bolt
thinner to accomodate for the thicker blade. I have used these for at least
5 years and never had a problem. They seem to last much longer than
the standard blades.

I don't know where you bought those blades but a 306 and 286 both typically use a 7556 blade. The 406 uses (I believe) a 7578 blade which is MUCH wider, thicker, and had a larger blade bolt hole. I can't think of any good reason to use them on a 286.

 

[franklinute]

The blades for a 406 Bushhog are 7278. I purchased these from Flailmaster.
They are 22.6 lbs each where the 7556 blades are 15 lbs each. The catalog
I ordered from said the bolthole for the 7278 blades was 1.5" but actually
is 2". I planned on bushhogging a field that had been neglected for many
years. That is why I wanted to try the heavier blades.

 

[arkydog]

after years of making bush hogs, they have a pretty good idea of what works. do you want to take a chance of hurting someone or your equipment?

 

[Arc weld]

I'd agree. If you want heavier blades, get a heavier bush hog that was designed for them.