GC1720 died, won't restart

[Fiziksgeek]

If you know what is connected...rather than ripping up the hardness...maybe start at each unit attached. Starter terminals and wires, fuel pump terminals and wires, etc and work back from there. Fuel pump is immediately under your seat on top of the tank I believe so maybe make sure nothing is jumping around on top there crossing a circuit

Not a bad idea. Until the dealer mentioned it, I was not aware that the fuel pump was on that fuse as well.

 

[AxleHub]

Fiziksgeek,

In a computer system . . Heat buildup can cause a minute crack in a motherboard or controller board or power supply board to "spread" . . But those are small systems with low power fuses and less than ideal cooling fan systems. In your GC you have front flow so heat buildup would need to be substantial in the engine compartment to effect a front flow cooling system.

If your failing fuse is a 10A . . then that is the starting system and dash lights and key control switch. If it is a 15A then it is the accessory circuit.

I'm a lityle surpised that the starting system circuit and the fuel pump are on the same fuse . . But if the dealer says it is . . then I guess it is.

You mentioned that each time you blew the fuse after running it for a period of time . . then you'd blow another one "right away" while it was still at operating temperature. So here is a couple easy tests:

1. Run the unit till a fuse blows, then replace the fuse BUT DO NOT turn the key all the way to start. Turn it to the first position but not to engage the starter. If the fuse does not blow . . You've eliminated the dash as a possibility. Then let it sit for a minute and then turn the key to engage the dash AND the glow plugs. Again like before you are eliminating possibility circuits.

Again let it sit a minute and then try to use the starter. If the fuse blows, you now have a very small group of items that can be the culprit.

Just a thought for some quick reduction of posdibilities. Also . . Is the fuse a slow blow fuse or standard ?

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Fiziksgeek,

In a computer system . . Heat buildup can cause a minute crack in a motherboard or controller board or power supply board to "spread" . . But those are small systems with low power fuses and less than ideal cooling fan systems. In your GC you have front flow so heat buildup would need to be substantial in the engine compartment to effect a front flow cooling system.

If your failing fuse is a 10A . . then that is the starting system and dash lights and key control switch. If it is a 15A then it is the accessory circuit.

I'm a lityle surpised that the starting system circuit and the fuel pump are on the same fuse . . But if the dealer says it is . . then I guess it is.

You mentioned that each time you blew the fuse after running it for a period of time . . then you'd blow another one "right away" while it was still at operating temperature. So here is a couple easy tests:

1. Run the unit till a fuse blows, then replace the fuse BUT DO NOT turn the key all the way to start. Turn it to the first position but not to engage the starter. If the fuse does not blow . . You've eliminated the dash as a possibility. Then let it sit for a minute and then turn the key to engage the dash AND the glow plugs. Again like before you are eliminating possibility circuits.

Again let it sit a minute and then try to use the starter. If the fuse blows, you now have a very small group of items that can be the culprit.

Just a thought for some quick reduction of posdibilities. Also . . Is the fuse a slow blow fuse or standard ?

Already did some of this. The fuse is a standard 10amp. I think I read in the manual that the two 40 amp fuses (in another box) are slow blow.

When the fuse blew last night, I shut everything off, walked to the garage, got a new fuse, and replaced it. When I turn the key to the on position or for glow plugs, it did not blow. I started the tractor, put the extra fuses in my pocket, got on the tractor, engages the PTO (front and rear), put the tractor in low gear, and started to move, got 20' and popped it again. I went inside, and let it cool for ~20 minutes (while posting on here), came out, did it all again, moved for about 5 minutes before it popped the 3rd time.

It was not a well controlled experiment, not separating movement from heat.

 

[beckmurph]

Have you checked for a loose wire that is shorting out your system? A bare wire touching metal?
If you had a "dead" short, the fuse would blow as
soon you as you turned the ignition key.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Have you checked for a loose wire that is shorting out your system? A bare wire touching metal?
If you had a "dead" short, the fuse would blow as
soon you as you turned the ignition key.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

Not extensively. But gave things cursory look. Will need to spend some more time with a good flashlight...

 

[Fiziksgeek]

I did get an e-mail from the sale manager (owning family member), he suggested putting in a 15A fuse and seeing what happens. That makes me nervous though, worried about burning up wires and making a real mess. Though, the dealer suggested it, in writing (e-mail)...not sure I want to risk getting into a messy situation...

 

[cglaser104]

I did get an e-mail from the sale manager (owning family member), he suggested putting in a 15A fuse and seeing what happens. That makes me nervous though, worried about burning up wires and making a real mess. Though, the dealer suggested it, in writing (e-mail)...not sure I want to risk getting into a messy situation...

I mean ya, you could do that, sure...you could bypass the fuse altogether but that doesnt make it a good idea. Lol

Your right to be weary of that. Those systems are usually protected based on the calculated safe maximum draw of the circuit.

 

[ray66v]

Going from a 10 amp to a 15, isn't going to be high risk.

You have his e-mail authorizing it. So, you can't lose in court.

If you really need to use it, you can try the 15 amp. But, it's no way to fix it.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Going from a 10 amp to a 15, isn't going to be high risk.

You have his e-mail authorizing it. So, you can't lose in court.

If you really need to use it, you can try the 15 amp. But, it's no way to fix it.

I don't exactly know if he meant it to be a permanent solution, or just a troubleshooting technique. If if blows a 15A, then you really do have a problem, vs 10A and something is running on the high side of it rated draw. But I gotta believe that the circuit is not used to capacity, there has to be some margin designed in.

If there was a component with an intermittent problem, I suppose running the 15A fuse could allow is to finally blow for good, maybe making the problem more obvious. My worry would be that if it was nick in a wire, increasing the amperage, could mean more heat, and potential damage to other things around it. I don't want to fuse a bundle of wires...

 

[AxleHub]

I don't exactly know if he meant it to be a permanent solution, or just a troubleshooting technique. If if blows a 15A, then you really do have a problem, vs 10A and something is running on the high side of it rated draw. But I gotta believe that the circuit is not used to capacity, there has to be some margin designed in.

If there was a component with an intermittent problem, I suppose running the 15A fuse could allow is to finally blow for good, maybe making the problem more obvious. My worry would be that if it was nick in a wire, increasing the amperage, could mean more heat, and potential damage to other things around it. I don't want to fuse a bundle of wires...

15A is a big change over 10A. Think how many items are on that circuit that are designed for 10A and could not handle 13A as an example.

Also you went from perfect runnimg very recently to recent occasional fuse blows to now steady fuse blows . . my point is . . . the problem is not staying the same . . it is deteriorating.