Adapting Ford loader to John Deere

[TractorGuy]

I am fixing to adapt an old loader from an 8N to my 855 John Deere. The plan as I am thinking right now is to set it up with the front loader arms on the floor with the bucket removed. This position will allow me to apply dome down force if needed. The JD has a tube running through the frame that 2-1/2 tube fits in pretty good. I will be using 2 pieces with 1/4" wall 18" long and welding 2"ﾗ1/4" angle to the ends to bolt the loader to. The loader currently has flat pieces on the rear legs with 2 holes.

Any suggestions or thoughts before I begin will be appreciated.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Even for a baby loader, anything less than 1/2" steel seems a little thin.

 

[mark in portugal]

1/4 wall tube is plenty strong; my loader mount uprights are lighter than that.

And [for the record] mine is a 1965 MF loader grafted onto an 85HP Italian tractor built in 1985. I do terrible things to it and it only broke a few times.

 

[bspeedy]

The 8N loaders I've seen do not have downforce. Also they are very weak and archaic looking. Maybe I'm not imagining the right thing.

I think I'd start with a more modern loader.

I agree that quarter inch material does not belong on a loader.

Maybe some pics would help?

 

[TractorGuy]

The 8N loaders I've seen do not have downforce. Also they are very weak and archaic looking. Maybe I'm not imagining the right thing.

I think I'd start with a more modern loader.

I agree that quarter inch material does not belong on a loader.

Maybe some pics would help?

Here is a picture of the loader. It looks similar to modern loaders except for the controls. I am hoping to tie into the power beyond that is already on the tractor.

 

[CincyFlyer]

1/4 wall tube is plenty strong; my loader mount uprights are lighter than that.

And [for the record] mine is a 1965 MF loader grafted onto an 85HP Italian tractor built in 1985. I do terrible things to it and it only broke a few times.

I was addressing the angle iron. Any angle or plate mountings should be grossly overbuilt if possible.

 

[TractorGuy]

The 2" x 1/4" angle will be welded to the 2-1/2" x 1/4" wall tube. Holes will be just a couple inches from the tube so it should be plenty strong.

 

[RickB]

I'd do all the design and initial fab work with the bucket installed on the loader. You have a better chance of getting the geometry correct.

 

[D2Cat]

You have to get the loader towers in the correct position, not too far forward, not too far back. The steel under your tractor has to support the loader and everything you'll put in the bucket or pick up with any hooks. The front of the loader has to be anchored to the frame of the tractor for the same reasons.

You also need some support from the bottom of the towers to the rear axle on both sides. The width of the loader arms can't be too wide, and too narrow will interfere with tractor frame, steering, etc.

I was working outside, so I make an A frame from some 4x4's to hold the loader. Then I could move the tractor a bit as needed.

This is a Massey loader I put on a Kubota L305.

 

[CADplans]

Every pound of loader you add to the tractor will need to be compensated for behind the 3 point hitch.
That loader is easily 500 pounds heavier than a JD 855 loader, the 70A,,,

This is a pic of our JD 855/70A,,,

You will find the tractor will quickly become unstable with that loader,,
on even slightly rough/un-level terrain.

You will find even cutting off the braces that run to the front of the tractor,
and re fabricating out of a lighter material will make the tractor more stable.

That is a LOT of loader.
Oh, yea, make sure the loader does not position the bucket any further forward than necessary.
Shorten the loader arms as necessary to keep the bucket close to the tractor.