Need help on purchase

[chris1976]

I have a B2650 with a 72" MMM. I mow about 6 acres with it, and I have a few inclines, and it takes me about 3-3 1/2 hours to mow depending on how I do it. My point is that the 2650 will handle a 72" mower just fine.

Joe

Thanks for the info! Is your tires filled?

 

[chris1976]

The general consensus here is to get a bigger tractor than you think you’ll need. That opinion comes from the experience of many of us that already made that mistake, and ended up having to upgrade at some expense. You can include me in that list. The first tractor I bought, was a Ford 8n, it was the perfect tractor for my needs, at a reasonable price...Not!

For the size of your property, I would go with something in the 30-40 hp range. You should get over your disdain for emission controls, because that situation is going to get worse in the future, not better. There will be a time coming up when people will be relieved they bought a tier 4, before the the next layer of regulations comes.

As for mowing your lawn, you would be better off getting a dedicated mower of your choice, as tractors don’t treat a nice lawn well, and tall grass pastures don’t treat small tractors well
Not meaning to be harsh here, just passing on the fruits of my mistakes, hoping it will help you out.

Thanks! I wish I had the coin to buy both but I dont. That's why I have decided on a tractor and mow with it. I've heard the 60 inch gives a better cut than the 72 but lately been hearing the 2650 handles it just fine.

 

[chris1976]

Random thoughts from another newbie, collected largely from TBN, which may or may not be useful.....

Arguments FOR buying bigger:

Literally everyone here on TBN says "buy one size up."

Even if you don't think you'll need to touch the wooded areas, are you sure you'll *never* decide you want to make some nice walking trails? How about when a big tree comes down and takes 10 trees with it? Or you decide you want to level an area for a new garden. Or get a big load of dirt, or gravel, or whatever to spread. Bigger is better there.

You have a fairly long driveway, which even though "pretty flat" will still need maintenance. This will be quicker if your tractor can easily pull a minimum 5' wide box blade. A couple of years ago I couldn't quite pull the trigger on a "real" tractor, so just put a small 4' rear blade on my garden tractor. I graded my driveway with it but it took about 3 weeks. This has definitely given me an appreciation for the benefits of size.

If you have very hilly terrain, or rough terrain, or both, more weight and larger tires is better.

If you're mowing large open fields, bigger is def better.

Over the years, I've found that my projects have tended to multiply, and have also become more ambitious. This may or may not be the case with you.

ANY tractor feels huge if you're used to lawn tractors. I believe that causes a lot of us newbies to buy too small.

Arguments AGAINST buying bigger:

If you need to work around buildings, flower beds, trees, and through trails, a smaller tractor is more maneuverable.

You can hire out the occasional big jobs (I've done that).

A large tractor will suck at mowing your yard. It will compact your ground and you'll have to remove the FEL if you've got tight spots. I managed to take down a newly planted crabapple when mowing with my tiny 4' blade attached, and that was just a garden tractor. IMO even the tractor you are currently considering is a tad big for finish mowing the lawn. If you go big, make your wife happy and get a dedicated mower for the lawn. You can't beat a yard tractor or z-turn for mowing.



You might think a large tractor with a MMM can "do it all." However, a MMM will get caught up on uneven ground, protruding stumps, rocks and even small piles of dirt (ask my garden tractors about that ), just no clearance. So you'll need to remove it for "real" tractor work. And they're a pain to take off. And it will suck at mowing too.

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks u gave me a lot to consider

 

[prof fate]

Not cheater, just listing it as a '25' leads one to think 25hp..it's just under.

Ah, the old days.
HP was bigger then I think. LOL. I now have a 26hp HST (zero turn) and a 14hp HST ZT - 42 and 38" cut respectively. When I was a kid we had a cub cadet 10hp, then a 12, then an AMF 14hp. WOW, 14hp!! We also had a david bradly 3 wheel mower - 9hp.

If 9hp, or 14, can mow grass why 26hp? Who knows! Sales is probably why - more hp sells over less hp!

Saw a recent episode of 'classic tractor fever' and bolens sold a riding mower in the late 50's to mow grass - 3.5hp. ****, my last push mower had more power than that.

My old kubota L175 has a 59" deck, 17hp. If I gotta mow 'grass' (aka lawn) I want a zero turn. More HP isn't needed..but why not? LOL

Jeffy

Why do you label the 2501 a "cheater." The law is specific for emissions over and below the emissions threshold. Your characterization is unwarrented to imply kubota has circumvented the law.

Certainly the regulators anticipated some ratings would approach the limits, you must be very naive and alone in your thoughts, if you believed otherwise.


EDIT: Chris,
Trust your instincts, others will spend your money w/o ever having seen your property. Some will even offer advice w/o actually owning a tractor. I have owned and farmed for many years w/ tractors of many stripes and descriptions. One of the favorites was a Cub Loboy, 184 w/ mmm, 4 cylinder gas, about 18 hp, mowed lawn and pastures, no issues.

 

[DK35vince]

Ah, the old days.
HP was bigger then I think. LOL. I now have a 26hp HST (zero turn) and a 14hp HST ZT - 42 and 38" cut respectively. When I was a kid we had a cub cadet 10hp, then a 12, then an AMF 14hp. WOW, 14hp!! We also had a david bradly 3 wheel mower - 9hp.

If 9hp, or 14, can mow grass why 26hp? Who knows! Sales is probably why - more hp sells over less hp!

Saw a recent episode of 'classic tractor fever' and bolens sold a riding mower in the late 50's to mow grass - 3.5hp. ****, my last push mower had more power than that.

My old kubota L175 has a 59" deck, 17hp. If I gotta mow 'grass' (aka lawn) I want a zero turn. More HP isn't needed..but why not? LOL

Depends on the speed you want to mow.
I still have a 1978 10 HP Wheel Horse. Yes it mows, but painfully slow.
My first zero turn was 21 HP 54" deck. Nice mower but I often would run out of power trying to mow at full speed (8 MPH) and need to slow down.
My current zero turn is a 35 HP 72" deck. Night and day difference. Now that thing is a mower. I can mow at full speed (14 MPH) with a 72" deck.

 

[Will_C]

Vince has it summed up well. I have been mowing my mothers lawn for 40 years. First with a 14 hp Case garden tractor with a 48" deck-2.5 hours. Dad traded that on a 18hp Case with a 60" deck-2 hours. I bought a Kubota BX2200, 60" deck-1.5 hour. Toro commercial ZTR 52" deck-65 minutes. I have mowed it with my Toro commercial ZTR 60" 27 hp a few times-50 minutes.

Give me more hp and a ZTR anytime!

Will

 

[prof fate]

You can add them.
Kioti charged me $300 for two rear remotes, installed. I think kubota is around $900 for the same thing.

I want a hydraulic top link so that's why I went with them. I might get a round baler and would need them as well.

I also plan to put a plow blade for snow on the front and will need a tap/control for angle on that - while not ideal to run off rear hyd it can be done. Most likely I'll build my own and end up using the top link cyclinder, still mulling over my options - it's 93F today so no need to worry much about snow right now! :laughing:

If you plan on a backhoe, log splitter or such you'll want them.

Should I get front and rear hydraulics? Not going to need them right away but who knows about the future. Or is it something that is not a problem to add later?

 

[chris1976]

Kioti ck2510 or kubota b2650?
Got a price on a new CK2510 with FEL and 60" MMM 17,000. The same in kubota is over 20,000

 

[dragoneggs]

Hi Chris,

Welcome... my :2cents: Get a L and a zero turn. You say 90% mowing but I am guessing you will have lots of other projects with your tractor and the MMM will be in the way if you are going to do much other than on your already smooth grass areas. Taking off and on belly mowers is not fun. If the emissions thing is a concern, look for a used low hour Grand L and use the savings on not buying new and get a new at least 60in or bigger z turn depending on if you have tight areas to navigate. Z turns mow much faster and with so much more maneuverability.

Consider this a long term deal and do it right the first time. Lastly, your tractor can unstuck your z turn and you and your better half can work at the same time! . Good luck with your decision.

 

[Omega Woods]

Hi Chris,

Welcome... my :2cents: Get a L and a zero turn. You say 90% mowing but I am guessing you will have lots of other projects with your tractor and the MMM will be in the way if you are going to do much other than on your already smooth grass areas. Taking off and on belly mowers is not fun. If the emissions thing is a concern, look for a used low hour Grand L and use the savings on not buying new and get a new at least 60in or bigger z turn depending on if you have tight areas to navigate. Z turns mow much faster and with so much more maneuverability.

Consider this a long term deal and do it right the first time. Lastly, your tractor can unstuck your z turn and you and your better half can work at the same time! . Good luck with your decision.

+1. I have a Toro ZTR that I paid 3k for a few years back. It’s a 50 inch cut but it has a Kawasaki engine. I fully expect to get 1000 hours out of it with careful maintenance. Machine cost per hour - $3.

I also have a BX2380 for which I could get a 60” MMM. Rough cost of 15k. I expect to get 2500 hours with careful maintenance. Machine cost per hour - $6. Plus, It would definitely take me an hour longer each week to mow with the BX because of trees and other obstructions.

All I’m saying is that it’s just not that much $ to get a ZTR if you don’t get crazy (approximately the cost of a MMM).

My free opinion, worth price paid...