Ford 4000 won稚 crank after use without sitting a day

[flyerdan]

The next thing to replace would be the condenser in the distributor, it functions similar to the coil and is subject to heat failure as well. It might only be available as part of a kit that includes the points, but their failure rate often leads to their availability singularly.
As for terminology: it has been mentioned in other threads that cranking=turning over and fires up=starts for most of us who dabble in troubleshooting, and find it confusing otherwise. Thread title indicates at first read that the starter won't turn over the engine unless it sits for a day.

 

[banc123]

I put a volt meter on the + terminal when it was connected to the battery, the + on the meter to the + on the coil and same with - with the key turned on.

The meter jumped around and I thought it wasn’t steady on the terminal so pulled the + wire to test it directly and it sparked, so I concluded it was getting power. I should have gotten v reading.

Since the coil is off, assume I can just turn the key to on and test the V on the red / blk that would go to the coil and if it reads 12v , I’ll try the new coil.

Assume it’s possible for the ground to work on the starter, but the ground going to the coil to not be good. If it’s not the coil itself and no spark out of the coil, maybe the ground to the coil isn’t good.

Thanks for the link...

 

[banc123]

The next thing to replace would be the condenser in the distributor, it functions similar to the coil and is subject to heat failure as well. It might only be available as part of a kit that includes the points, but their failure rate often leads to their availability singularly.
As for terminology: it has been mentioned in other threads that cranking=turning over and fires up=starts for most of us who dabble in troubleshooting, and find it confusing otherwise. Thread title indicates at first read that the starter won't turn over the engine unless it sits for a day.

Would think if the center coil wire going to the distributor isn’t throwing a spark, it’s at the coil or before ?

Thanks

 

[LouNY]

When checking the voltage to the coil you need your meter + on the primary wire to the coil and the meter - on a ground the same as you would do with a test light.
Many ignition systems will have two wires going to the coil a run lead and a start lead, they can be joined anywhere in the harness,
this is done to give the coil full voltage during start and a reduced voltage thru a resistor or resistor wire in the run mode.
The standard ignition system has power to the coil (+) then from the coil (-) to the points, the primary (12 volt) input should always read voltage in the run or start (cranking) mode, the out or - side of the 12 volt on the coil will go to the points, they will go to ground each time the points close, which is why you voltmeter will oscillate and a test light will strobe.
The power to the coil needs to be verified in both the run and start modes.
Positive and negative are with a negative grounded system.

 

[Coyote machine]

FWIW, Looking at your cap and rotor, I can't be certain that the center black button on the cap, which contacts the center of the rotor, where you found the black, (carbon mark) is making contact with the rotor as it should. The 'button should be spring loaded and if you press on it with your finger it should retract into the brass piece holding it in place. Check out this You tube vid showing what most coil high tension center button contacts look like; yours could/might differ somewhat, but you can clearly see how the button protrudes and would make good contact with the rotor's top and send full spark to each plug, via the rotor contacting the individual plug studs inside the cap.

Old Distributor Cap and Rotor - YouTube

If you take your cap and rotor to the store and compare it to a brand new identical cap, I believe you may see the center 'button' protruding from the cap to make contact with the rotor's center. I would also use sandpaper to clean the end of the rotor and the part of each contact stub for each spark plug inside your cap. Compare again to how new looks. If the center button protrudes beyond flush on a new cap, buy yourself a new cap and rotor, and try those before you replace your coil. You may still need a new coil; but if your cap and rotor aren't making proper contact inside you need to replace them too.
You may need new wires too, and or points/condenser, if worn out; but first things first.

 

[banc123]

Here?s what I found today ��

* I tested the wire going to the + on the coil. It tests 12.6v when not connected to the terminal with the key on.
* when its connected to the terminal, it tests 6-7 v
* when cranking, it tests 11v (so does the main battery, I think all the cranking is draining)
* when I test the terminal on the coil going to the distributor, it shows milli volts when the key is on.
* when I turn to the crank position, the reading goes to 6-7v , fluctuates but not not to 0 etc...

I pulled the distributor cap and dust cover and turned it over. I may be blind, but looks like the point hugs the distributor shaft vs having a clear gap, then contact, then gap etc.. I expected to see gaps between contacting the V on the shaft as it spun and maybe the contact is closed.

Seems maybe that’s the issue ? The point is on a constant ground so its not letting the spark occur ?

I took a video with my phone but it won?t allow me to post it.

 

[banc123]

See if this works

September 9, 2018 - YouTube

 

[ovrszd]

Those points are not opening at all. Totally out of adjustment. Not sure how it runs cold but not warm???

Put the cam bump at it's max position and then move the point plate until the gap is at specification.

 

[banc123]

It won’t run cold or warm now, but “was” able to crank, use for a while then it would stall and that was it until it sat overnight. Here is another pic, the points are closed Maybe it evolved to that and finally died.
I ordered a tune up kit with points , condenser, rotator and coil. Dang it, if that doesn't fix it.

 

[ovrszd]

Properly installed new parts will fix it. We have faith in ya.