Shut Off Valve for my 3rd SCV???

[LouNY]

Aaron and Steve,

Thanks again for the links and suggestions on how to tackle the manual valve idea. Steve, you can't be older than me, a Vietnam Combat Veteran, just looking for an easy way to get this valve idea done . . . not to open a "can of worms" again, but wish there was a simple single lever manual on-off valve out there that I could just buy and plug in.

Many thanks,

FredSG

And you all must be older then me :laughing: Marines, Viet Nam 72-73 at the end and I'm not even 69 yet :drink:

 

[BukitCase]

Sounds about right Lou; I told my kids several times as they were growing up that they would never hafta worry about my "second childhood" - they're startin' to believe me these days.

Now, if I could just convince my body to go along with the fantasy ... Steve

 

[Zebrafive]

I would disagree on the threads, if you are matching the size, match the threads, one less fitting that way.
I suggested 3/8 for a reduced size valve (less likely to get in the way).

Aaron Z

Good point, but I just don't like NPT threads. Even if I had to adapt, so not to use NPT I would. If the current hose has NPT ends, at least, when it needs to be replaced I not have to stay with NPT to match an NPT valve. Just my 2cents.

 

[ovrszd]

Aaron and Steve,

Thanks again for the links and suggestions on how to tackle the manual valve idea. Steve, you can't be older than me, a Vietnam Combat Veteran, just looking for an easy way to get this valve idea done . . . not to open a "can of worms" again, but wish there was a simple single lever manual on-off valve out there that I could just buy and plug in.

Many thanks,

FredSG

Very easy to do what you want.

Mechanical: Double Selector Valve w/Detent SAE 1 Ports | Selector Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Electrical: 13 GPM 12/24 Volt DC SAE 8 Solenoid Operated Double Selector Valve | Selector Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Where your dealer installed Tees is where you plumb in either of the valves above. They can only provide flow to one pair at a time.

Personally I'd go electric and add a switch to the current control lever handle, similar to a Diverter valve switch on a joystick.

 

[BukitCase]

Richard, I agree but we already tried that; doesn't sound like Fred is at all comfy with that much plumbing... Steve

 

[ovrszd]

Richard, I agree but we already tried that; doesn't sound like Fred is at all comfy with that much plumbing... Steve

Yeah, it's a bit daunting at first. For me, finding a spot to hide the valve would be the biggest obstacle. I'd be looking under the floorpan.

 

[FredSG]

Richard, thank you for the links . . . I printed out the pages related to what you sent . . . I like the looks of that electric diverter but don't really understand the schematics . . . Steve, you're absolutely correct that I'm not "comfy" doing all the plumbing involved . . . if I messed up the connections my JD dealer is over 2 hours away from me and he'd want to transport my tractor back to his shop for repairs to what I messed up . . . so we're looking at really big bucks . . .

Thanks again . . . appreciate your support.

FredSG

 

[ovrszd]

Richard, thank you for the links . . . I printed out the pages related to what you sent . . . I like the looks of that electric diverter but don't really understand the schematics . . . Steve, you're absolutely correct that I'm not "comfy" doing all the plumbing involved . . . if I messed up the connections my JD dealer is over 2 hours away from me and he'd want to transport my tractor back to his shop for repairs to what I messed up . . . so we're looking at really big bucks . . .

Thanks again . . . appreciate your support.

FredSG

You can print the instructions from Surplus Center's website link I linked.

It's very simple.

The right side two ports are for your two hoses coming from your valve.

The top two ports would go to one circuit.

The left side two ports would go to the other circuit.

The wiring is a simple ground wire and a switched power wire.

When you activate the switch the solenoid opens and directs flow to one circuit.

When you deactivate the switch the solenoid closes and directs flow to the other circuit.

It's a 100% duty cycle solenoid so it doesn't mind being "activated" all the time.

Your switch needs to be a toggle on/off. So it stays in whatever position you choose.

For example, switch off and your valve runs the Grapple, switch on and your valve runs the rear remotes.

 

[BukitCase]

Richard, you made a slight boo-boo in your hookup explanation - I have a couple of those valves, the side ports are straight thru when not energised (controlling cylinder#1); when energised, the INLET side port is re-directed to the TOP port (for cylinder#2) -

Trust me when I say that NOT paying attention to which ports are "in" and which are "out" when stacking these valves is NOT a fun thing (BTDT)... Steve

 

[ovrszd]

Richard, you made a slight boo-boo in your hookup explanation - I have a couple of those valves, the side ports are straight thru when not energised (controlling cylinder#1); when energised, the INLET side port is re-directed to the TOP port (for cylinder#2) -

Trust me when I say that NOT paying attention to which ports are "in" and which are "out" when stacking these valves is NOT a fun thing (BTDT)... Steve

Dang it, now I can't edit my post.

Thank you Steve, you are correct.

Sorry for the confusion to future readers.....

Tractor hydraulics plumb into right side ports.

Cylinder #1 (non energized) plumbs into left side ports.

Cylinder #2 (energized) plumbs into top ports.

Sorry for the mistake....