GC 2600

   / GC 2600 #71  
I'm bored, looked into this some. Found a post from 2006 when my industrial lube courses were still fresh in my mind. Do not try to find an ISO 220EP, or AGMA 5 gear oil. They are industrial classifications, and the smallest container available is probably a 5 gallon pail. This leaves a SAE 50 motor oil (not a option) or a SAE 90 gear oil (or suitable multigrade).
The Permatran is an API GL4 rated gear oil, with EP additives (that's why its used in the front axle). GL4 fluids are the lost common gear oils in the world. It is approx. a SAE 30 oil. The "thinner" oil my be more likely to seep from the gear box seals. Lubrication fluids have gotten a lot better in the 20 years since that manual was originally published. I don't know how to link to the page.
gear oil.jpg
Half of the lubrication is derived from the EP additive package that gets used up with use, the other half, the oil. Oil thins out as it is used ( shear). It gets thicker (sludge) from contamination, usually water. The quality of the additive package combats this, and is reflected in the price. The use of a GL4 rated fluid with an annual change shouldn't hurt any internals. Even the dealer would look at you funny if you wanted to change the gear box oil every year. These attachments on our SCUTs are only slightly more robust than walk behinds, "extreme" service is relative. Some owners are religious about maintenance, 50% have probably never changed their blower or mower deck oil, 25% have never checked the level, 10% probably don't even realize there is oil in the gear boxes. A lot of this is built into the recommendations.
You're way ahead of the curve. There are lots of valid opinions, just be aware to location,weather conditions, length of use, storage, that the equipment will be operated in. There can be significant differences between users.
 
   / GC 2600 #72  
On another maintenance item for these GC tractors is the MF manuals listing of yearly replacement of the engine coolant because I normally put 50-65 hours annually on my tractor.

I have changed this fluid every year in the fall season mainly because MF designed the removal of this anti freeze fluid really simple.

KC
 
   / GC 2600 #73  
The Original GC2300 manual recommends Permatran 3, -OR- SAE 80 GL4 in the transmission.

SAE80 GL4 is, 80W gear lube.

The reason you could interchange them is on the most basic level, they are the SAME thing, a 30W oil, (when they are both measured on the engine oil scale).

Probably the reason they no longer recommend the 80W gear oil in a GC, is because the wet brakes do have specific additives.

The myth that 80W, or 80W-90 gear oil is thicker, is a stubborn one.
 
   / GC 2600 #74  
On another maintenance item for these GC tractors is the MF manuals listing of yearly replacement of the engine coolant because I normally put 50-65 hours annually on my tractor.

I have changed this fluid every year in the fall season mainly because MF designed the removal of this anti freeze fluid really simple.

KC

I stopped this practice.

Putting only 30 or so hours a year on my tractor, I cannot justify removing what amounts to brand new antifreeze every year, and replacing it. I also can't find any scientific reason for me to follow that recommendation.

I buy a quality heavy duty diesel coolant, and have been replacing it every three years. It still looks clean, and tests good for SCA additive, even at that point.

And, it's also not a pleasure to perform this task on a generation one GC.
 
   / GC 2600 #75  
I stopped this practice.

Putting only 30 or so hours a year on my tractor, I cannot justify removing what amounts to brand new antifreeze every year, and replacing it. I also can't find any scientific reason for me to follow that recommendation.

I buy a quality heavy duty diesel coolant, and have been replacing it every three years. It still looks clean, and tests good for SCA additive, even at that point.

And, it's also not a pleasure to perform this task on a generation one GC.

I understand, but for me I have a 20 year old hunting truck that requires a little anti freeze and oil from time to time and it inherits the MF old anti freeze.

Also, the wife won't ride in this truck since the passengers seat has a thick coat of German Shepherd shedding hair, and I sure that's just fine with the dog.

KC
 
   / GC 2600 #76  
I also extend the drain interval, engine hours rather than by year, but then I don't have a use for the drained coolant. Novel approach KC, I like it.
Another reason for frequent changes of coolant is the things you can't see, cavitation on the cylinder wall. Excellent video, with an easy to understand explanation. Stats at 12:45.
 
   / GC 2600
  • Thread Starter
#77  
I also extend the drain interval, engine hours rather than by year, but then I don't have a use for the drained coolant. Novel approach KC, I like it.
Another reason for frequent changes of coolant is the things you can't see, cavitation on the cylinder wall. Excellent video, with an easy to understand explanation. Stats at 12:45.

I guess I should change my coolant as I have no idea when it was done last. First do I need to use a special Diesel engine coolant or is standard automotive coolant ok? Secondly what痴 the procedure, is the drain on the rad Or do I just remove the little plug on the left side and drain it from there?
Thanks in advance K.C.
 
   / GC 2600
  • Thread Starter
#78  
I guess I should change my coolant as I have no idea when it was done last. First do I need to use a special Diesel engine coolant or is standard automotive coolant ok? Secondly whatç—´ the procedure, is the drain on the rad Or do I just remove the little plug on the left side and drain it from there?
Thanks in advance K.C.
When I remove the drain plug will the plastic overflow drain also?
 
   / GC 2600 #80  

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